The Dometic CFX3 Mega Thread

Sorry, it's taken a while, but I had to work through some internal resources to find good information. Here’s a breakdown of all the thermistor parts for CFX and CFX3. The connectors are different, so make sure the correct sensor for the correct generation is ordered. We recommend using Allvolts in Australia. They ship quickly, and prices are fair.

Note: It doesn't look like TW supports table-related BBCode, so I had to create an image for each below

NTC SENSORS

CFX3 & CFF
NTC assy. terminal shape:




CFX, CFXW & CF
NTC assy. terminal shape:




Cheers!

DOMETIC
mobile living made easy
dometic.com

 

Thanks

FYI
@lambo is (according to his profile) in Colorado.

 

I know this is deep into the Mega Thread, but I hope it helps someone.

So i was having some trouble with my Dometic 35 CFX3. It would Fault error code 33 for a failed compressor start. Unfortunately, it didn't seem to try again, or at least wouldn't work until I manually powered it off/on. This didn't work well when travelling longer distances and then finding out it had been turned off for possibly hours. I initially thought it was the Dometic's fault...however, testing proved otherwise.

I run a couple different battery systems depending on how long of a trip or if I'm just running around town. I have 2 Jackery 300's that I use for really short day or overnight trips and I always keep one in the truck if I ever need to turn on the fridge or other small uses. I'll plug one in overnight and recharge at a hotel or friend's house and swap them as needed. They run the fridge for ~12 hours. I also have a Bluetti AC200P and B230 for longer trips. they are basically 2100 Wh each compared to 300 Wh of the Jackery 300s (7 times the battery).

I really noticed the Dometic's Fault 33 on my longer trips when I was sleeping in my roof top tent. The whole truck would shake when the compressor tried to start and I'd wake and find the fault.It might start correctly 3-4 times, but would eventually fail and need a power off/on.

Initially, I didn't see the pattern. Sometimes I still had the Bluetti system in my truck and would use it for the following week before I pulled it out. It would of course error. It did so randomly, but always with the Bluetti...and this recent 5-day/4-night trip while hooked up only to the Jackery, flawless performance. I never removed the Dometic from the Jackery and instead would turn on the Bluetti to charge the Jackery for a couple of hours when needed. I ran the Bluetti B230 down to ~25% while the Jackery remained full by the end of the trip.

Suffice to say, Bluetti is likely dropping voltage right when the Dometic's compressor needs it. It isn't responding fast enough to the change in voltage. Also, I didn't realize how my wattage was lost while the AC200P was under no load. Basically, if it's on, it will use roughly 10% of the total battery (200+ Watts). That is ridiculous. I'll have to research and test my other battery systems accordingly.

So, for those that have read this far, be mindful when using Bluetti Solar Generators with Dometic fridges (and likely other brands). Doing so will likely cause Fault 33 error codes on the Dometic Fridge.

 

Lately, I've seen a few people trying to match their electrical loads with a cooler and the battery(s) needed to support them. In doing so, there are times when the battery protection modes we have programmed don't seem to meet your needs exactly.

Since there isn't an ability to customize the battery protection settings beyond just the three settings offered, you might also want to incorporate something like the following to your build.



These are inline low-voltage disconnects. We found these on

$40 Victron Energy Battery Protect 12/24-Volt 65 amp

Amazon, and they also have a

$54 Victron Energy Smart BatteryProtect 12/24-Volt 65 amp (Bluetooth)

Bluetooth version which might be really useful for your application and needs.

Hope this helps in getting your build completely dialed in!

DOMETIC
mobile living made easy
dometic.com

 

good news is ordered a new thermistor to replace as I was getting a code 11 on my Dometic cfx395dz and it was surprisingly fast shipping from allvolts!

Bad news is after replacing it still shows open circuit. I also swapped wires with both zones and it remains a problem with the small compartment side.
Is there anything between the connector and control board to check?

thanks!

 

It sounds like you may need to follow the sensor connection into the controller to make sure there are good connections. If all appears to be good you may need to replace the controller

DOMETIC
mobile living made easy
dometic.com

 

@Dometic will the eventual next gen (cfx4 maybe) be like my discontinued CFX50 that I can safely have both AC and DC plugged in and it smartly uses the AC?
This big feature keeps me from getting a new one in a better suited capacity for my use because I have it hard wired to DC 12v battery and before a trip, plug in an extension cord to cool the fridge down and pack before leaving.

 

To date, I've not heard any information about the next generation - whether it's in the design stage, any features expected, or otherwise. Sorry, I don't have better info for you.

DOMETIC
mobile living made easy
dometic.com

 

From the support I’ve received; I’d recommend staying away from @Dometic currently. The fridges are nice initially, but good luck long term.

 

It does seem that repair is not/limited on the table. Warranty, sure, send it back. But, like a lot of products now made, repair is not something designers put into their products. Maybe it is youth, or a sign of the times. "I remember when ... "

I got an Iveco cooler on sale at Lowes this year. It would not turn on. I called them. They suggested looking at the connection. I took the cover off. The power connection was not connected. It worked after I connected it. BUT ... the screws holding the cover on were like "one time use" I could feel that they were so prone to stripping that if I did it again it was likely to not hold next time. I returned it.
Honestly, I am not sure that repair is as common as it used to be. My Samsung 10 phone is a real pain to just get the battery out. That used to be easy on a phone. My Casio watch is a serious disassembly to get to the inside. Not for the unskilled.

I recently got the protective cover for my

$780 CFX3 45 -Liter Portable Refrigerator and Freezer, Powered by AC/DC or Solar

CFX3 45.

 

Is anybody running their CFX with either an aftermarket DC cable with a 5521 (5525?) barrel connector into a Jackery or similar? The OEM cord on mine seems to be crapping out, because the fridge will just randomly shut off when plugged into my Jackery 550. My suspicion is that it's because the cigarette lighter plug on the OEM cord is loose in the socket (in order to keep it from pulling out, I have it making an abrupt turn back at the Jackery with it pinned down using zipties around the unit. I'm thinking that the smaller connector will be better because it will be more out of the way.

 

As long as the polarity is correct, there is no reason that it should not work. I agree with you on the loose socket though, I wish the Goal Zero I have had the threaded one like I have hardwired in my truck.

 

I exchanged a new Jackery 500 cuz it did that. I suspect that it was the Jackery DC female outlet. Jackery customer service was great.

 

I was under the impression it was the fridge rather than the Jackery because the Jackery's display would show it as continuing to supply power, and because the Dometic's plug has always had a loose fit in there (and was loose enough that I actually put plumber's tape on the threads to keep it from unthreading itself while driving, which happened a couple times).

 

I have 3 Jackery units. I switched units and verified that it was the Jackery.

 

Wanted to update the thread with my

$780 CFX3 45 -Liter Portable Refrigerator and Freezer, Powered by AC/DC or Solar

CFX3 45 experience. Purchased back in August of 2021. With the exception of having it shut down for a couple of weeks, the thing has been running constantly since install on either DC or AC. I have it set anywhere between 35-39 and have a traditional analog temp gauge inside. Temp inside is consistently below 39 and it does what I bought it to do. Keep snacks, food and drinks nice and chilled. No issues, no complaints.

 

My CFX3 55IM started messing up, went full blast freezing everything. Support is replacing it under warranty.

Still never resolved the 75DX issue, so... mixed experience.

 

Found that you were right, and that the same issue still happens when using an aftermarket cable, so I've got an RMA started. I finally got around to filming the problem (at their request) so that I can hopefully get it warrantied before my next trip. Trying to decide on if I want to try my luck with the replacement unit, get a competitor's product, or build up a second battery setup. Probably option 1 leading into option 3...

 

I've been using this cable with my Yeti 1000.

Goal Zero 12 V Regulated Cable for Yeti Lithium Regulate The Andersen Power Pole Output of Goal Zero Yeti Lithium Consistent Voltage Improving Compatibility with 12 V Devices (12 V, Up to 15 A)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PY8Q5DC

Not sure about the Jackery - no experience with those power stations.

Now that I'm switching to EcoFlow, have to figure out what the best cable option is.

 

Jackery Customer Support, in response to the video I sent: "The car charger that you are using seems to be a different size from the one in the original box. Can you confirm if you tried charging the PowerStation with the car charger that came in the box? For it to fit, it must be 8mm thin pin (7090). The cable needs to be fully plugged in and fitted."