The Frankenstein Build! LT/Expo/Trail rig..and BS

It only did one, and those shocks arent old at all, so ill probly buy a replacement and relocate. I also flipped them too so maybe it'll clear one it flexes that much.

 

first off, fi andlower gears/higher gear ratios in an ifs isnt the best all around. we dont have cromo shafts and bullet proof drivetrains. sasd with full widths then yes alot less weak links.....

i disagree here too. tons of people run 4.56 or 4.88s on 33s and 35 and run fine on the road and still have great crawl rqtio. im just trying to decide which is the best for highway use and best crawl ratio at the same time. all at the same time keeping the most reliability of my stock set up.

i think monte nailed it on the head what i was tryin to say below....

i disagree on the clutch is more stressed with crawlin. part of the reason i havent left the 265s yet. i crawl really slow with stock drive train and slip the clutch alot less than people with 285s. i think with 285s or a touch bigger and a crawl box will slip the clutch on the street alot more.... which leads to less lifetime... but i think with 285s and the crawlbox my clutch will suffer a slight amount on road, not significant enough to worry about.... good conversation fellas. im sry monte if u dont want this on ur build. we can move if u want

 

Half his build is a BS thread anyway. haha.

I'd guess 4.56 would be the best on the hwy and crawl ratio for you with your lower 5th gear. Won't get your freeway RPM too high, but will still net you a decent crawl ratio. Most of the 2nd gen manuals opt for this ratio and I think you both have a .85:1 5th gear ratio. 4.88's would get your RPM over 3000 at 75mph, and 4.30's might not be enough of a change to justify the cost.

 

I would vote 4.56 too

 

Here's a link to a good gear ratio calculator you can play with. I believe you guys have the Toyota W56 tranny in the drop down menu.
http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

 

I only say it stress e clutch more as you feather it more and when going up hills or ledges boulder whatever..take more power so it eats more from your clutch. That is if you didn't have a crawl box. Now if you had the crawl box..not going to be a problem haha

But 4.56 on 285s would be a good median. But still won't be like a crawl box. Eh are sick

And yea this build is like 30% build 70% BS Haha

 

Oh here is my rails bed lined

 

Yeah, that is why I said I think regearing is more for daily driving. I went from 3.73's to 4.88's and while it holds back/crawls a little better I don't think it is a huge improvement by any means, just minor. Although I guess I am talking from an automatic's perspective. And with a 4.7 crawlbox in low, you likely wouldn't even know the difference between having 3.73's and 4.88's in the diff really.

Can't see much. Too shiny. haha

 

I may have missed it, what are you using for the bedliner? Are you just doing the rails?

 

Yea just the rails for now.



Just dupilcolor stuff. I needed to do the rails as there was rush on them from the bed rack trapping water there. I want to raptor the full bed I just have the dupilcolor left over

Here is my future switch panel..ill paint it though

 

What is above the stereo? Is that an LED bar?

 

Lol no that's the light for the backing of the heater controls. Actually only one light..that doesn't work for some reason..

 

lol this is Monte, the TW lord of light, so I wouldn't be surprised or put it past him.

 

Lord of light...I dig it

But..at the same time..

 

Haha looking forward to seeing this thing done and wired up! Did you fix the crooked bed rack?

 

No I didn't haha it's strait..just lower in the back which I don't mind as it make the RTT flat haha

 

I don't think clutch wear under normal driving with larger tires is really a concern. It's not that hard to take off from a stop. Clutch wear with larger tires and stock gears off road, yes... (even with stock tires I found myself slipping the clutch in technical terrain more than I'd have liked)

In an effort to make it an all around truck, forced induction, gears, crawl box, and large tires... though I suspect 35s on a 1st gen aren't worth it with stock CVs.

Gears help off road, without the crawl box, but bottom line is most of us drive more on road than off and that's where you'll see the greatest difference -- every day "street-ability".


Just my thoughts.

 

so now we are all swaying towards 4.56s and 33s????? lol i think the crawl ratio would just get sightly better. but will the highway rpms blow?

 

It won't be too bad I think. You will gain like 300-400 rpm at 75. I gained about 700-800 rpm going from 3.73's to 4.88's and it wasnt bad, but I am still under 3000 rpm at 75 mph. I think you will be over. Again, the crawl ratio will be better but not much of a gain. You will go from about 35:1 to 39:1 ratio from motor to tires. Whereas a crawlbox will take you to about 200:1.

 

I'm still pro crawl box haha regearing for 33s to me just isn't worth it. Plus if you regear then you might as well put a locker up front too. So cost is gonna be about the same either way.