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The Frankenstein Build! LT/Expo/Trail rig..and BS

Discussion in '1st Gen. Builds (1995-2004)' started by Blackdawg, May 28, 2011.

  1. Oct 27, 2013 at 8:53 PM
    #5221
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    SC fix is getting a 97 ECU. And there are some cases where the 96 ECU does fine some times.. But he can't put a 01-04 as all double cab ECUs are for AT trannies..
     
  2. Oct 27, 2013 at 8:58 PM
    #5222
    95 taco

    95 taco Battle Born

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    So go to a junkyard, find a truck with his engine/trans, 4x4, that's 97-04 (if he wants to SC. :notsure:
     
  3. Oct 27, 2013 at 9:01 PM
    #5223
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    BFG KM2 33x12.5 tires, Wheelers Type B rims, Allpro 1.5'' Wheel spacers w/extended thread lug nuts 2 Alpine 10'' Type Xs 2 Kicker 6X9s 4 Sony 5 1/4s Pioneer 4100 HU Sway bar removed 4 Hella 500 HIDs Frankenstein Leaf packs 1'' lift shackles Eibach coils 5100s front 10'' 5150s rear BAMF BPV bracket Deckplate mod Elite Front bumper Magnaflow 14'' muffler Elite Off Road Rear bumper with Tire gate with jerry can and fold down table, BAMF sliders, Custom Homemade Bed, rack/roof rack, CVT Mt. Shasta Roof Top Tent, 20lb CO2 tank, BAMF diff skid custom front skid, GM CS144 140 amp alternator Blitzpro 21s HAWK side LEDs Blitzpro Custom made side mirror lights, LightForce 240 Blitz llights, Piaa 510 ION fogs, XRC8 Winch w/in cab controls,

    Im assuming that the 01-04 body swap he is wanting to do comes with an ECU as its in the cab..

    Not talking about SC.

    The only ecu he can run in his truck right now is a 95-97 4x4 5vzfe manual

    nothing else. there are too many small tweaks made otherwise. Most 95-97s have EGR or remnants of it and we have no ABS at all. The pin out could be different too. As far as i know. Thats the only option is a 97. No 98-04.
     
  4. Oct 29, 2013 at 7:46 PM
    #5224
    Lumpskie

    Lumpskie Independent Thinker

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    Couldn't I keep my ecu, wiring etc. And only use the physical cab? Where is my ecu anyway?
     
  5. Oct 29, 2013 at 7:52 PM
    #5225
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    Yea you'd want to keep your ECU and engine harness. Its the Cab harness of the Dbl cab you'd be using though to keep all the power windows..power mirrors..dash lights..wipers..blinkers..ect. Which would be fine. i think. You should in theory just be able to leave the fuse box mounted and everything should be fine..Unless the pin out for the fuse box to the ECU is different..which it could be..in which case some wiring would need to be done. Im not sure on that. But the only major function the cab harness does to the ECU is really give power..so you should be fine.

    The ECU is right up ontop of the heater core under the dash. You access it by ripping off the glove boxe and the upper piece of plastic thats like the bottom of the dash. I should have a pic somewhere if you want me too look.
     
  6. Oct 29, 2013 at 7:57 PM
    #5226
    Lumpskie

    Lumpskie Independent Thinker

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    Yeah I'm pretty sure that I'd give RyWire a call for an OBD I to OBD II harness conversion. I did that when. I swapped an Integra motor/trans into Wifey's civic and it worked great.

    So, physically, do you think the cab would match up to my front end?
     
  7. Oct 29, 2013 at 8:07 PM
    #5227
    95 taco

    95 taco Battle Born

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    Your truck is OBD1?
    My 95 was OBD2.
     
  8. Oct 29, 2013 at 8:29 PM
    #5228
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    no need for that. Your OBDII as it is.

    Im talking about just the ECU pin out. The rest should be fine.

    Yes the front should be the same. From what i have seen you'd have to change the rear cab mounts and bed mounts on your frame and it should be fine. Im not making any promises though. Could be a slight difference. But i doubt it.

    your grill will also line up but you'll need to swap over your hood and fenders too. So you'll have to wrap or paint the truck since no colors from 01-04 are the same as 95-97. or just live with it haha

    Honestly though..this is a big project just for a back door..Be easier to just get a double cab and swap your goodies over and call it day. Unless you roll the truck tomorrow..i wouldn't really recommend doing this swap. Takes a LOT of work and space and time..

    You can always do just a manual swap into the Dbl cab and move all the armor over too it as well and locker and suck.
     
  9. Oct 30, 2013 at 8:32 AM
    #5229
    Lumpskie

    Lumpskie Independent Thinker

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    Doh! I retarded... I mean't OBDIIA to OBDIIB. Or are all of our trucks on the exact same OBD setup?

    (I know that I had to do the Rywire jumper on Wifey's car... but it was a JDM Integra Motor/Trans/ECU I mated to her USDM Civic harness.)

    And you're right, Blackdawg, about all the work. I'm not too serious about the project, but I thought it would be cool to be the only '96 dbl cab out there. I thought it would look cool too.
     
  10. Oct 30, 2013 at 8:43 AM
    #5230
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    hmmm..ya know..im not sure about that..Would have to get that confrimed by someone that really knows.

    And ya it would be pretty sweet! haha i have both in my possession..could do it..but..having done it once..NOT in a rush to do it again..haha even though it might be easier then what i did as its not a full interior swap. But still...lot of work just for a back seat..
     
  11. Oct 30, 2013 at 10:35 PM
    #5231
    SeattleCoug

    SeattleCoug Washington State University

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  12. Oct 30, 2013 at 10:47 PM
    #5232
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    Yea basically, pretty much useless for us. It's used for boats with fiberglass body that do t conduct electricity.

    For use..you can easily just make a short ground for your lights right next to it..cause the whole body and frame is grounded.
     
  13. Oct 30, 2013 at 10:58 PM
    #5233
    Digiratus

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    I connected mine to the negative post on the battery with 4 ga. in case I used the full capacity of the fuse block. Should I have grounded it to the chassis instead?
     
  14. Oct 30, 2013 at 11:04 PM
    #5234
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    The neg bus? Nah if you connected Tim I'd do it to the battery. But running two wires to everything is annoying and pricey. Instead you could just run positives everywhere and ground the lights on a point somewhere by it.

    Even if you do or don't have the neg bus connected directly, power still flows through the block. Max rating of 100amps.
     
  15. Oct 30, 2013 at 11:07 PM
    #5235
    Digiratus

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    Ah, gotcha. I guess I misunderstood what was being asked. :eek:
     
  16. Oct 30, 2013 at 11:09 PM
    #5236
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    Yea. But I mean..if nothing is connected to the neg bus in the first place..no real point.
     
  17. Oct 30, 2013 at 11:16 PM
    #5237
    SeattleCoug

    SeattleCoug Washington State University

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    Nice, yeah alright that's what I thought. It's nice to get reassurance before shipping the item out
     
  18. Oct 30, 2013 at 11:17 PM
    #5238
    Digiratus

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    I do use mine for the lights for the neg side of the relays. They are right close by anyway, on that side of the firewall. I know, I know, you do your relays differently. :rolleyes:
     
  19. Oct 30, 2013 at 11:21 PM
    #5239
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    Yea you bet. Nothing is worse then bad wiring! So have fun and don't short cut it :cool:

    I can see doing that..on the relays I have that are like...which is only one..cause I do mine different :p but the PIAA harness that came with the 510s is normally wired. But I just put it's ground right on the mount bolt that holds the relay haha

    But that would be a good use for it definitely.
     
  20. Oct 30, 2013 at 11:50 PM
    #5240
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    here ya go..97 front end double cab.

     

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