The Frankenstein Build! LT/Expo/Trail rig..and BS

you got that right, my battery is embarrassing right now. :[

what do you do for running wires into the cab? im going on the drivers side fender down in to the door hinge and then down into the kick panel (i know sounds good right)

 

There's a rubber grommet on each side of the firewall that goes into the cab.

 

This

 

Yea I have some wires going into the grommets on both sides of the engine bay. But I also have a 0/1 Guage going into the cab that has a power block which is where all my lights(mostly) amps and other such things get their power from.

 

i used the one on my pass side for my amp wire, but for some reason i dont like the idea of cutting into the one on the drivers side

 

That's what it's there for? Haha

 

its not a flat one its kinda weird shaped, and it already has wires running through it. idk i guess ill have to cut it once i get my other lights and fuse panel

 

That's where I've ran my amp wire, cb wire, and switch wiring.

 

its just the wires coming from the stock fuse box for stuff like electric doors, locks, dash lights..ect.

I have a few going through it. I have MUCH more on the passenger side.

 

worked late tonight again


1 - Automatic Control w/in the cab - including combining both batteries, isolating batteries or leaving in auto
2 - start off either battery
3 - run winch off either battery or both
4 - disable winch power
5 - mechanical join battery for starting if the control solenoid does that have the ability to latch in due to low voltage
6 - fuses for everything
7 - indicator in cab to when the solenoid is active
8 - voltage indicators in cab


is my goal, I was just honestly laying down wires on a paper preliminary planning stages, I may be going slightly overkill though

I should add, Ill probably looking at creating said set-up on a second set-up, for the time being to get my new Group 65 battery in and keep running my PC1500 and the northstar ill be keeping it simple to start

 

Okay, well your winch should only be connected to one battery. the Starter battery, why? Because it'll be super close to the alternator and you will want that.

just an relay to combine and isolate the aux from starter is going to do half of that stuff you just said.

You want to wire the isolator relay so it get its voltage signal to turn on or off from the starter battery. Why? Because if any battery is more likely to die on you in camp, it'll be the aux one as everything you use while in camp should be wire to it. Nothing should be wired really to the starter one other then the winch. Your automatic controller will keep it charged well.

I don't really see a point to having a solenoid for cutting the winch power..which if you do, will also have to be a 500amp one...those aren't small..

Wiring the starter onto both batteries is pointless. If your starter battery is dead..you'll just flip the combine switch and your done. I do that a lot if i dont let my starter battery charge enough as my isolator is totally manual. works every time.

Sounds like the National Luma kit would be fine for you and do everything you want. Your just over thinking how it all works together. I did too when i was doing mine. Its actually really simple.

 

the winch wont get a solenoid, it'll just get a kill switch, no point having power to it constantly

and option 3 isnt huge too me, id probably just get the two turned on to handle the load


and yes been looking deeply at the national kit, not a 100% set in any way yet, I like the appeal of the cheap kits, but Id much rather spend some more and get it right to my needs hahahaha

 

you do realize that the winch has its own solenoid..which get power constantly but isn't on untill it receives a signal from the coil side aka..your controller..haha

there is no point to having a kill switch..

and you'll want it as close to the alternator as possible. The alternator supply a good chunk of the amps and voltage needed for winching. Upgrading it should be high on the list as well for dual batteries.

but by linking the batteries for winching, which i do and you should too, you are already combining them..so no point to allowing it to work of both. If you do try and wire it to both..you'll need diodes..and some BIG ass ones at that haha

 

i got s 150a sequoia alt sitting at home just need some time to retro it in, going to be swapping belts and a front seal soon, so pulling the alt will help, so gives me time to see what I need to do

oh yah i forgot they do lol..... stupid TJM's have had me confused as I do not believe they do... they all get sold with a basic on/off switch

 

a winch can't have an on off switch. I mean..they all do but still..thats a solenoid. Plus its a three way one so you can say which way to turns.

i highly doubt it doesn't have a solenoid. Its how they work..if it doesn't...get a different one cause thats just stupid.

 

look at the yellow turn knob... power switch....

Starting with a generation 3 contactor pack, we added a huge dose of power swapping in a heavy duty high output motor. Then we put our engineering staff on a common problem “other winch” companies face and came up with our very own solution! A patented knurled & hardened drum, taking the “drum crack warranty” fear out of spooling on our supplied 3/8” Dyneen synthetic rope with massive TJM greaseable self locking hook, all pulled through our very own aluminum hawse fairlead. We didn’t stop there though! Every TIM Stealth Series winch has hardened planetary gearing, mil-spec black braided cables, external battery cut-off switch, both wired & wireless real time remote controls! Capped off in our signature Stealth Black finish. - See more at: http://www.tjmusa.com/en/product/tjm-9000lb-stealth-series-winch?tid=3#sthash.LEkyeh0e.dpuf

but yes they have a solenoid, tis true

 

Yea..but the big as square box in the upper left..is a solenoid..haha

That thing looks like a power isolator switch for cutting power off to it completely.


Still a normal winch with the solenoid and controls though.

 

Actually that winch doesn't have a normal solenoid

 

yea. thats your yellow switch thing. Still just has a regular solenoid with wired and wireless controls..

umm..how is it not normal?

 

"TJM “Contactor” Winch Controller is a much better device for controlling winch motor power. Contactor's are better sealed to corrosion, take up less space, and most importantly are designed to fail in the open position so your winch can't run-on. This single TJM contactor can replace all four bulky old school solenoids for those of you looking to upgrade your current box if interested. We specifically build our own and have a patent's on our own internal design changes.

The alternative in most winches is 1940's technology. Specifically, the electro-mechanical solenoids used in most winchs to control the high-amperage power to their winch motors. There are usually four, two for powering the winch motor & drum "in" and two for "out". As an example, here are the solenoids from our old "W" winch in the picture. These old school solenoids on a modern planetary winch are either under a black plastic cover or integrated in the winch body/cover.

These solenoids pictured are just old Ford tractor “starter” solenoids. They are prone to corrosion and failure, and can in fact fail in the “closed” position, which means your winch runs-on and can't be stopped without disconnecting the battery - not fun if you are winching "in"! Mostly though, they just quit working at the most inopportune time, right when you really need your winch!"