The Frankenstein Build! LT/Expo/Trail rig..and BS

don't think thats that new..lots are water sealed..but whatever. Still just a solenoid for a winch which was my only point.

 

Calm down man haha

Just messing with you

 

i am calm..haha

but i am so SICK OF FLICKR BEING SLOW!

jesus..i have a huge post ready..just need ma damn pictars and upload is soooo sllooowwww

poop..

 

Just as long as you have it saved to notepad!

Anytime I'm making a large post, I type it all out on notepad so I don't lose everything if TW jacks up.

 

no kidding. I started doing big ones in just word first. haha

thankfully autosave feature will be on the new TW site

 

Haha nice.

Is the new website going to be for Tacomas or Tundras?

 

Bob is making a new forum for tundras yes. But he is updating TW too.

 

Ah, cool...

 

hopefully. Hope its not TOO much different. There is a thread about it in the suggestions area i believe.

 

Yeah, I check up on that thread every now and then. As long as they keep the layout and no ads I'll be happy.

 

Alright. So here is more on the process i did for cutting for a 35'' tire.

First..jack up the the axle and use a jackstand. Remember, jacks are not safe to keep something up on for extended periods of time.


IMG_7915.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Next, take the tire off!


IMG_7916.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

IMG_7917.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickrv

Now you need to remove the inner plastic liner. If its anything like mine..be covering in dirt. I needed a screw driver and a 10mm socket to do so for the plastic connectors that once held my fender "flares" on.


IMG_7918.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

IMG_7919.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr


You will also have to pull off the mud flap, keep the bracket, ill explain why later.


IMG_7920.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Once the bolts and screw are off. Don't worry about being tender. Get a screw driver and bust em off. Who cares if they break, your not gonna be needing them again haha


IMG_7921.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

There are also too pop off one up above, just rip the liner down and they will bust off.


IMG_7922.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Done!


IMG_7923.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Now go over every hole there was a plastic clip and make sure nothing is left. You'll want a smooth surface for tracing your cut line.


IMG_7924.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Now apply your tape to draw on. Or you can skip this if you have a light colored truck or bright colored marker. I found this worked well. Make sure you have tape covering the area your gonna mark. So if your taking 1.5'' out or 1'' or 1.75 like me. it doesn't have to pretty and line up with the edge of the fender. You just want tape covering where the line goes.


IMG_7925.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

You can see here, there is gap. doesn't matter though as im only drawing 1.75'' out.


IMG_7927.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Now for how you mark the cut line. MUCH simpler then most think. All you need is piece of wood, or cardboard, even and old ruller or something. I choose wood as i have lots of little scrap pieces to choose from(thanks to my dad lol). I then marked a line and then measured 1.75'' from there. Used a square to draw the lines straight across the wood. Then measured .5'' in on the lines i drew and marked it for my center point for the drill bits.

I used a pencil and a sharpie for my marking tools. Each had a different bit size. The pencil was slightly smaller. You can't just drill a bigger hole though. Needs to fit snug so whatever your using make sure the holes are a tight fit.


IMG_7908.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

once drilled, my marker and pencil go like this.


IMG_7909.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

IMG_7910.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

To use. You just put the pencil on the inside of the fender and draw with the sharpie!


IMG_7928.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

i used two hands, one on each..but had a camera so..yea..


IMG_7929.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr


Boom! perfect trace of the exact same arcs as the stock fender. You guys with stock front fenders can use this for a base cut as well but you'll end up cutting more off on the cab side.


IMG_7930.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Now on to the cutting! Don't forget your ear protection, eye protection and gloves. Long sleeve shirt can't hurt and even a dust mask if ya want.


IMG_7931.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Now start doing your relief cuts. Do them about ever inch or less. the more you have the easier it is to keep an arc.


IMG_7932.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

BUT! and this is just my advice..do NOT cut all the way through the line your drew! cut just too it or half way through it. You'll see why in a bit. This is what i did..


IMG_7933.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Now when you get here you'll notice its a bit harder.


IMG_7935.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

well thats due to this guy.



IMG_7936.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

don't worry about it too much. Cut like you have been and it'll be fine.


Now you can start cutting off the pieces you just did. Again, don't cut right on the line. If you did your cuts like i explained up above, just cut for the pieces to fall off. One of the reasons for this is your grinding disk is straight, not arced, so when you try and cut arced it always ends up cutting more on the back side. Leaving the wingle room helps assure a straight cut.



IMG_7938.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

these is how mine looked.



IMG_7939.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

IMG_7940.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Once you are done cutting, remember that bracket? just grab it and bend it back and forth and twist it a bit and eventually the spot welds will bust right off.



IMG_7944.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

You've probably noticed the cut is not very straight looking at this point and very rough. Well thats easy to fix and now you'll see why i didn't cut all the way to the line.

I used an air powered tool with sand paper disks, but just a grinder with flapper wheel will work too. Im a bit spoiled so i can vary the speed of this tool which is why i chose it. your going to hold it perpendicular to your cut and slowly grind down the metal to your line.



IMG_7941.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

So you can see in these photos, the top part is unsanded and the bottom is sanded. go slow and do a little section at a time and you will end up with a smooth much cleaner cut.



IMG_7942.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

IMG_7945.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

TIP! make sure the disk is rotating in a way that it pulls the tap into the fender. Or in other words throws the shards of metal way from you. You don't want the grinder ripping of the tape.

for the next part you'll need some of this:



IMG_7907.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

You can get it at any car parts store for about 12 bucks or so.

This stuff is going to help save your tires from getting shredded if by some chance they do hit your fender. It'll helps look good and helps hide the very small inconsistencies from your grinding. But if your really screwed up, it'll still show up.

Just press its on the the fender and cut to the right length.



IMG_7946.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

IMG_7947.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

IMG_7948.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

IMG_7949.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

ahhh..now it looks freaking gooooooddd

but we aren't done.

remember the mud flap bracket? reinstall it without the mud flap.



IMG_7950.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr


Why? the brack helps hold the bed side in place. I choose to keep it seeing as we already eliminated one up above. You don't HAVE to do this. But id consider it. You'll notice it moves a lot with out this there.

but looks like crap with no mud flap..so i cut it too



IMG_7951.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

NOTE! CHECK YOUR STATE LAWS! Wyoming doesn't require mudflaps on vehicles so i can get away with is and the super wide tires sticking out. Some states do NOT allow tires to stick out and mud flaps are required. So make sure you know whats what where you live before cutting these


Now..reinstall your need tire



IMG_7953.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

BOOM!!




Hope that helps guys!

Its late now though so i won't start the fronts till tomorrow. But i bough the sheet metal for it can't wait.



on a side note..this..is not what i wanted to find my wheelers AAL is bent to shit haha guess i need new ones..damn it..

oh well. Make a nice refresher for lift when i do it.



IMG_7952.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr


more shots of the other side with trim on it.



IMG_7912.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

IMG_7913.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

 

Finally! Freaking upload was slow..hope that post helps guys.

 

Thanks man! Truck is so much taller haha can't wait to start the front tomorrow

 

Awesome! Such a great write-up for the rear.

Can't wait to run 35's some day! Haha

 

Nice walk through! Save this on the OP


btw you need expos or deaver 8 pack

 

also wont that mudflap get ripped off as soon as you stuff??

 

haha your welcome haha told ya was no bigger. BUT for you..yours fender flares take a bit more work as they are plastic. Id used a different tool for that. Air powered saw tool probably.

and thanks

They are big haha i took pics with a tape measure so ill be able to see true gains on ride height.

Thanks man.

Can't wait for the front

Yep its in the OP. Under tires and wheels. Already hyperlinked.

i don't want all new leafs. My leafs are freaking awesome. i mean..i have at least 400lbs in the bed at ALL times or more. And i have 2'' of rake still. And 1'' rake with camp gear. Plus i don't want to buy new leafs. Ill just replace the bent AAL.

I don't want expos or deavers cause id have to relocate the leaf hangers and such. Not that i couldn't. But too much time and money. Only think im gonna change if i do that kinda stuff is with some H70 LT leafs

 

nah its out of the way...i don't have mud flaps on them. I cut the mounts for the actual mud flap. But its further back then the fender is. Is it gets crunched a bit...oh well haha

it really helps stabilize the bed side a lot. If it doesn't work out. Ill take em out and make something else.

 

Fucking hell man, it looks great! The cuts look damn near professional

Tires looking good as well, excellent writeup.

 

thanks man

I try haha

Glad you all like the write up. Hopefully i can do one for the front as good.