The Frankenstein Build! LT/Expo/Trail rig..and BS

Ill say. Big ole turd

 

2JZ swap

/thread

 

Can't /the thread till I stuff a 2jz in it...haha

 

BTW, your vastly superior organizational skills make me sick.

 

Haha what did you just now see the OP? Haha

I actually gotta update a couple things. SOS meet and my diff stuff.

 

Hmm I guess I haven't drawn one up. Just of the solenoids. I will do that now for ya. And mikes drawing for the air tank

 

Here Timmy. Not to scale obviously haha

Pretty simple though

Battery Wiring Diagram for Frank by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr


Shit..i forgot to show how i run it through the stock fuse box

whatever, i just has a 4ga wire going to the positive pole in the fuse box. I don't have the alt running to the fuse box then the battery. I have it go alt to battery, then battery to fuse box.

 

I also added an edit above if that matters..

anyways

1) Honestly..cause i had it already haha its my 400 amp fuse that came with my wiring kit for my subs. Its on 0/1 guage wire..freaking huge ass wire..Idealy..yea, 500 would be better. And i might get one for it later. I also forgot to add i have the cable running off the aux bat that goes into the cab fused as well with a 400amp one. bit over kill really..

2) I didn't cause my solenoid is literally..right on the second battery haha there is 8'' of wire going from the solenoid to the battery and its got some flex covering on it and i am confident in the wire shielding as its like 1/8'' think anyways.




That said..in your case..i would fuse it for sure if its going out back and the solenoid is in the bay area. Be a long ways indeed and lots of shit can happen then. So fusing both sides is a good idea if the solenoid is going to be far away from both batteries.

If you mount the solenoid like i did or similar next to the starter battery, id probably skip fusing it in the bay. idk if you have ever seen a 400-500 amp fuse..but mine with the case is like 6'' long so be a bitch to get that all snug everywhere.

 

When you have a break and I need wiring help, you come visit. kthx!

 

I have a fall break and spring one.

 

You have a major flaw. You do not want the stock fuse box to be post isolator relay. That needs to come off the starter battery. You don't want the stock fuse box running off the aux battery.

Breaks are fine I'm sure they will work fine for your needs.

Other then that. I think it's a good wiring setup, just need to change the stock fuse box

And you bet man

 

Well A) its gonna be a hell of a lot easier to wire..other wise you'll have to run a 4ga wire all the way back up to the front.

B) The whole reason for having dual batteries haha The point is that you can have as many accessories as you want on the second battery(Lights, fridge/freezer, heater, water heater, whatever) so that it CAN go damn near dead. Hell mine died twice on our trip this fall from the cooler i had with us..cause im sure its not efficient at all and runs constantly. IF you have the ECU hooked up to that, which is basically what you have going with the stock fuse box being run off the aux battery, then you will have issues.

The idea is to ensure no matter what happens to the second battery the starter will always work. You are going to have the fancy solenoid so it will basically charge the aux battery all the time then flip to charge the starter when it senses low voltage. ( I Believe anyways, this is how Nat Lumas system works, assuming the same for this solenoid ill double check if you are curious).

Basically you want the truck to run off the same battery it always has no matter what.

The truck draws so little power, its not going to kill the truck driving it haha it will be fine running the stock fuse box off it. Even the head lights and tail lights ect. which im assuming is what you are mostly worried about. Think of it this way..has driving the truck now the way it is ever killed your battery? no..so i don't see why you are trying to do that haha

This is also a good time to point out that to trigger the solenoid you should have the power wire that feeds it to manually over ride the solenoid coming from the starter battery too. As its the one that will stay charged more consistently

Edit: stole this from the other thread..haha

you said..

"NOTES:
1. I do not have a winch, and if I ever get one, it'll be ran directly off the starting battery.
2. Maintaining the ability to self-jump would be cool.
3. My thinking is that even with a 300A circuit breaker, I'd be able to get a couple cranks in, before the breaker tripped, as unlike a fuse, you're able to exceed the amperage for a period of time. Even double for the first couple seconds depending on the breaker.
4. Average power draw is pretty limited. Mostly just want to be able to run the fridge full-time. And not have to worry about (LED) lights draining the starting battery at camp
5. Don't want to limit future potential things. EG would rather buy once.
6. Ideally I'd like to have starter only, well act as the starter, and only be connected to the alternator. Everything else off the aux"

So if your just worried about the fridge mainly and LEDs..you want that one aux battery and leave the truck system totally seperate. Plus..gonna be honest..just the fridge a few lil LEDs..not gonna drain shit on the battery over night.

also you should have no issues self jumping if you have the switch wired right it'll be fine and you'll be able to link the batteries fine.

 

ha! at the headlights..




called it haha

yea re wiring those wouldn't be too hard actually. But id leave the stock wiring other wise untouched.

no need to ruin a good thing haha

 

This i like

 

ha i just replied in that thread..whatever you'll read it. I am good with all the adjustments.

As i stated in the other thread, i think both breakers are good idea as there are TWO sources of power on that wire.

1 is from the aux battery, its connected all the time so the wire is basically HOT all the time from the solenoid to the aux battery. Thus a break right by the battery is good if something archs out somewhere inbetween the solenoid and the Aux battery it will pop and flow of electricy will stop from the aux battery.

BUT

if you had the batteries linked at that moment for whatever reason..then electricy will STILL flow from the STARTER battery and alt. So having a breaker there will pop and stop flow from them.

If that makes sense..

Basically, i still think having both for as long of a run as you will have, is needed. It'll be about 10-15' of wire or just under id guess

 

yes you could do that, you would just have to tap into the ignition wire as a signal wire to another relay and put it on the stock power wire of the head lights after the OEM relay.

But really..im kinda shocked they don't turn off automatically..mine do in Igor. Don't in Frank as he is older. But mine stay off then as soon as i open the door..bam. Off.

 

ahhhh yes! its the door switch. I know this cause Franks is..well..totally dead haha which i don't mind cause no damn key ding haha and i never seem to leave my head lights on as i never use them unless its dark and just use the markers at dusk.

May be better off just fixing that haha

also i just decided that CBOB is pronounced like..Kabob haha

 

Yes! haha Spoken in an Australian/New Zealand accent haha

Kabob makes me think of this..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lmDTSQtK20c

hilarious group

yea you could always..kill the speaker for that haha my dad did on the FRV. Literally took a screw and drill and just screwed it into the speaker

 

HA! thats a great one.


Oh my god..







she's so hot...






she's so flipping hot..she's like a curry..






I wanna tell her how hot she is but she'll think im being sexist...





she's so hot she's making me sexist...






bitch...




so good.

these are from the best episode the had.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FArZxLj6DLk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TLEK0UZH4cs

They are hilarious live too.

And yea man. Do it seems simplest..