The Frankenstein Build! LT/Expo/Trail rig..and BS

Well the time has come!

Here is my write up on my new front Long Travel install.

The kit is from MCM Fab, a small fabrication shop with big aspirations based in Las Vegas, Nevada. Matt is the owner and main designer and welder at this shop. He is a great guy and very easy to talk too about any setup you want.

Check out the MCM website here: http://www.mcmfablv.com/index.html

Matt can be reached at:

matthew@mcmfablv.com
(702) 629-3235

Hours:

Monday-Friday : 8:00AM to 5:00PM

He is always quick to respond to any question you may have about anything. So don't be scared to ask him about anything.

I got a complete kit from him, everything was included to do the install including modified tunra CV axles. By modified I mean they have been ground down to help get a pinch more wheel travel. The kit had all hardware for steering, brakes lines and limit straps. I also got some bad ass new ADS 2.5x8'' short body coilovers with Eibach coils of my choosing. I went with 18'' 700lb coils. If you haven't heard of ADS, you need to look them up. They are a small company based in Tuscon, Arizona and their shocks easily out do the top brands in several small ways and they are continuing to put new designs and ideas into their shocks and putting pressure on the big companies.

Check them out here : http://www.adsshocks.com/

And yes, they do make OEM replacement coilovers for both 1st gen and 2nd gen tacomas

But onto the install and pictures!

This isn't a particually hard install, especially if you have room and the tools. It does take a lot of tools though, I tried to keep track but this isn't a 100% exactly.

You will need:

• Basically all normal metric wrenches and sockets both deep and shallow in these sizes
  • 10mm
  • 12mm
  • 14mm
  • 17mm
  • 19mm
  • 21mm
  • 22mm
  • 24mm
  • 36mm
• Some big crescent wrenches
• Red Loctight
• Hammer, hard rubber mallet is fine too but may need a big one too
• Pry bar or two of different sizes
• Pliers, both normal and needle nose
• Pitman Puller
• Ball Joint/U joint press
• 20 ton press
• welder
• grinder/sander
• spray paint
• Jack and Jack stands (duh)
• Breaker bar
• Diff oil possibly
• Lithium based Grease
• Lots of rags
• Probably beer
• And a buddy, or two.....so more beer?

Having a 2nd set of hands will be very helpful so try and find a friend to help!

And so we begin, first, some “before” photos!

Frankenstein 3 by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
Frankenstein 4 by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
Frankenstein 5 by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
Frankenstein 7 by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
Frankenstein by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

And some in the shop

LongTravel Install.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
LongTravel Install-2.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
LongTravel Install-3.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
LongTravel Install-4.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
LongTravel Install-5.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
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LongTravel Install-7.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
LongTravel Install-8.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
LongTravel Install-9.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

And the new parts!

LongTravel Install-10.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
LongTravel Install-11.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Shot of all the extra hardware with it. I did take this time to replace my 555 LBJs that replaced the exploded OEM ones, with brand new OEM ones. Trust me when I say there is a night and day difference in just feel of the joints. OEM all the way guys!

This shot has the new brake lines, UCA hardware, limit straps and steering extensions...which are huge

LongTravel Install-12.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

But lets start with these freaking beautiful and beef as FUCK LCAs...my god..

LongTravel Install-13.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr



These things are insane. The craftsmanship is out of this world and holy beef man!! Pretty sure the frame will die before these suckers do.

As you can see they are fully boxed with internal gussets and have a strike plate for a hydro bump stop as well as shock mounts for the coil over and a bypass.

LongTravel Install-3.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
LongTravel Install-4.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

No need for LCA skids here fellas

LongTravel Install.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

This is one of my more favorite features on these LCAs though, this little end cup. Its for the LBJ to mount to and it totally encases the castle nut on the LBJ. Ill will showcase this more later

LongTravel Install-14.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Every single bushing has its own grease zert too. On the Lowers AND the uppers. Very handy and convenient.

LongTravel Install-2.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

The uppers zert

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There is a built in gusset on the huge uppers as well with the insanely large uni ball for the spindle

LongTravel Install-6.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

And of course a cool sticker on the UCA for all to see MCM FTW!

LongTravel Install.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Now for the ADS shocks. Made in the USA and also just top notch quality!

LongTravel Install-8.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
LongTravel Install-9.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

The resi's are no joke either.

LongTravel Install-10.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Although a tad rough to see, you can see the number 1800.300.0700. That means 18'' long, 3'' inner diameter, 700 lb rate.

Go Eibach!

LongTravel Install-11.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Now its time to start tearing stuff off! Of course you have to get the truck up on jackstands and the wheels off. Make sure you get the truck up HIGH> you're about to gain like 4'' of down travel so getting the wheels back on is going to be tricky. This task is becoming a bit of an issue with me with the 35s and long travel now...ha

LongTravel Install-12.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
LongTravel Install-13.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Next remove your skid, this can be different for everyone be it different models ect., but I figure if you can't take off the skid you shouldn't be doing this anyways. When I did this, I discovered a broken lower mount. Bummer. Ill fab up some new stronger mounts later. The skid had some lovely scars on it though!

LongTravel Install-14.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
LongTravel Install-15.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Now its time to remove the spindle. I did this the same as removing a CV but I just added in removing the UCA too. So, start by taking the outer CV nut off, this is where the 36mm socket comes in and breaker bar. Or Air gun..ha

remove the cap

LongTravel Install-17.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

and now you can see the inside.

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remove the cotter pin the cotter pin nut and the main nut

LongTravel Install-19.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
LongTravel Install-20.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Now turn your attention to the lower ball joint. There are 4 bolts on the bottom that hole the LBJ to the spindle, undo those.

You can see two here

LongTravel Install-16.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

I did not undo the main castle nut and remove the LBJ from the LCA yet. I find it easier to deal with by itself.

Next I undid the brake line from both the caliper and the frame mount. Make sure you have a small cup or something to catch the brake fluid as plenty will come out. Now you can either keep the copper crush washers on the lower bolt or go get new ones. Technically, you should get new ones, but you'd be fine if you didn't.

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For the frame these is a small lock tab behind the tab. Undo the 10mm line then pull the tab and the line will come free

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Now you just have to undo the UCA bolt.

LongTravel Install.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

It doesn't come out super easy though. You'll need a drift or screw driver to help pound it out. Some one will also have to be in the engine bay to guide the bolt around any wiring harnesses or other things in the way. But it will come out all the way without having to cut the bolt!

LongTravel Install-2.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
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Once the bolt for the UCA comes out the whole spindle assembly will just come right out! Super easy.

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Then just undo the top 3 nuts for the coil over and the bottom mount bolt and it'll come right out as well.

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Almost too easy huh?

Now remove the brake line totally from the spindle, you will never need it again

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Now, I used the 20 ton press in the shop to press the UCA off the spindle, but you can also use the Ball joint press you went and rented from the parts store to do this. This was just easier for me.

LongTravel Install-29.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Now this is very important. The OEM ball joint has a snap ring in it! DON'T TRY AND PRESS IT OUT WITH THE SNAP RING IN! That would be very bad. PLUS, you NEED the snap ring!! You have to reuse it on the MCM ones. So, pop it off and keep them handy.

You can just barely see it in these photos, but its a big ring.

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Once the ring is out, get your Ball joint press out

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Now I can't totally confirm this but I don't think all of these kits will be the same from store to store. Mine wouldn't totally line up right so we improvised with some ¼'' plate stock. But the ball joint comes out relativity easy once you get going.

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Cute little dead ball joint

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This is what is going to replace it. All grade 8 stuff

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Its a bit..bigger..haha

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Actually this is what is really going to replace it. This piece is what you have to press back into the spindle. You can see the upper notch that the OEM snap ring goes into.

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Give the spindle hole a nice wipe down and cleaning if there is rust or anything

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Once again I used the 20 ton press as it was easier, but the ball joint press will do this as well.

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Again, once you have it pressed in all the way, you can see where the OEM snap ring goes

LongTravel Install-40.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

So go find them where you left them and get to putting them on. Not the easiest thing due to their size and no plier holes drilled but, it is do able.

LongTravel Install-41.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
LongTravel Install-42.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Now do that to the other side too, or just set it down for now and come back for it later. Now go back to the LCA and LBJ. Remove the castle nuts from both the outer tie rod end and the lower ball joint

LongTravel Install.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Now use your pitman puller to remove the OTRE from the LBJ. Then the LBJ from the LCA. So many acronyms..haha the pitman puller can be rented at a parts store, but really, just buy it. Mine was $15 bucks. And its the BEST way to remove the OTRE and LBJ to save the boots. Which you will be reused both unless you are replacing them. But even then, if you save the boots, trail spares!

So, get a pitman puller basically.

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Magically its gone!

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I then took this time to put in the steering extensions. This is where two large crescent wrenches come in handy, unless you have some big ole metric wrenches which I can't remember the size you need.

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Once you break the OTRE loose unscrew it from the ITRE and then screw in these beefy bastards. The 3.5'' steering extensions. No worried about snapping one of these pigs.

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Super easy!

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I would not tighten them down though, wait until you are done to eye ball align the toe to get you to a tire shop for a real alignment.

Now its time to undo the LCA bolts to get them out. There are 4, two per side and the passenger side is easy as can be. Don't mind the marks, I though I could “save” my alignment but that plan didn't work out so I wouldn't bother.

LongTravel Install-49.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
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However, when you get to the driver side, you'll hit a problem. The steering rack is in the way of the back driver side bolt.

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Damn.

So you basically have to drop the steering rack. So if you haven't done that, there are 4 bolts. This big boy on the driver side that has a nut on the other side as it goes all the way through the crossmember.

LongTravel Install-52.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

And two on the outside of the passenger.

NOTE: Mine is not stock anymore since my last accident on the trail, I have 2 studs now. On a normal Tacoma or 4runner there is 1 stud on the top and a bolt on the bottom.

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And the biggest bitch is the middle one.

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Get those out the steering rack will swing enough to let the last LCA bolt come out.

So naked!

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Finally its time to start putting it all back together. But bigger and better!

Start with the CV. If you do this quick enough, you won't loose any oil from the diff. Just use a pry bar on the back of the CV and it'll pop right out. Then put your new huge Tundra ones in.

Slight size difference

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Out with the old and in with the new!

LongTravel Install.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

Lube up the new bushings on the beefy new LCAs and slap them in. I did have to do some massaging on the mounting point on the truck with a hammer. Needed spread back out a tad.

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yummy

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Then put your LBJ on. Again, I put brand new ones on in light of recent (cough) events But now I can show you something really cool about the LCAs. I love how they cup the lower bolt. Super slick..also..how about those welds

LongTravel Install-62.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
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Now, there is a slight downside to this, you can't really get the cotter pins in. So instead we opted to just red loctight the nut on.

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Time for the UCAs. How cool is this, even the washers for the UCAs came powder coated to match!
Matt will do just about any color you want as he does in house power coating too

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Lube up the UCAs as well

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Then have fun running the long bolt back into them with the washers ha. Its kinda a pain and two people are pretty much needed but doesn't take too long. A washer goes on both sides of the busings so 4 washers per UCA.

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Now put your new brake lines on your brakes. Again, either reuse the copper washers or go get new ones. I went and got new ones, they are cheap. These brake lines a very nice quality. They are stainless steel and have a rubber protective layer. Even come with new backing clips.

LongTravel Install-68.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
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Is still a banjo bolt on this end though.

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Now go get your big grade 8 UCA bolt and the two uni ball adaptors and piece them together.

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Now you just have to slap the spindle up on top of the LBJ, install the 4 lower bolts by hand and then line up the UCA

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After this is done, one at a time remove the 4 LBJ bolts, and apply red loctight and tighten down. 45 ft/lbs is the torque spec for them

then tighten down the UCA bolt, tight.

Put the OTRE in the LBJ and hand tighten it, don't suck it down yet.

Run you new brake line up the the frame tab and re attach it as well.

Now for coilovers!

LongTravel Install-74.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

pretty self explanatory..

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To attach the resi's I went and got 4 4-6 inch hose clamps and I found these super cheesy rubber pads. They have sticky tape on the back of them and are supposed to be for steps or something. But turns out if you cut them in half they wrap perfectly around the resi's! Now I didn't really do this to protect them from the elements so much, but mostly from the hose clamps themselves and the frame. The very nice coating that ADS does on their shocks will be more then enough to cope with the elements.

But my resi's will always look nice. Was cheap and easy, and kinda makes em look cool....

LongTravel Install-76.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
LongTravel Install-77.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

finally the last part is the limit straps.

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You will be welding on the truck and close to the front so make sure to undo the battery, or batteries in my case

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This is where I decided to put my upper mount for the straps.

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The most ideal way to install these is to take the coils off the coil overs and cycle the suspension. I instead just put a jack under the LCA and lifted the LCA till the shock compressed about 1.5'' taking into account that the straps would stretch. I will probably redo this later with an adjustable Clevis mount. But this worked out for me okay.

Weld in the top mount and bolt in the lower onto the second shock tab and your golden!

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The last step for me was to grind my calipers which really has nothing to do with the kit itself just my rims. They sadly rub the calipers without the spacers and I am not going to be running those anymore!

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Put on the wheels, take it off the jacks and BAM! Take your first look. Once your done though, don't forget your OTREs aren't tight. Eyeball the Toe on the alignment and then tighten everything up.

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Yes yes I know the alignment is totally horrid. I redid it a bit better after the photos. But that said. I still plan on going to the shop to see if they can really do it on a rack.

Overall, this was a pretty simple project. I had a fun time doing it with my brother as it was his first big wrenching project. I think anyone who has installed a lift can do it. The kit is amazing!! The ride even with the scarey ass alignment is plush and just EATS up the bumps. I can hit stuff harder then even and nothing happens Matt was great to work with and I could call him any time I had questions. The parts were pristine and fit was excellent! I can't wait to really dive into tuning the shocks to make it even better.

Surprisingly, the gain in width is noticeable, but its not very drastic. But i had pretty crazy offset to begin with. It was only a 4'' total overall width gain for me. No more "Wide travel" for me

And if you just scrolled through all of that real fast, here is a video that may fit your pace better

Watch in HD!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gef8w0IzyZk

I do plan on adding spindle gussets, cam tab gussets, and shock tower gussets and possible a small engine cage from tower to tower. As well as hydro bump stops.

Be sure to hit up Matt if you are interested at all in one of his kits! Or just some OEM ADS shocks for a nice ride. Or some UCAs and extended travel ADS coil overs for a nice mid travel setup. He will hook you up.

Whew..that was a long one Thanks for reading! Hope it was helpful for some!

 

yea i might do some temp tests cause you did bring up a valid point.

I can always buy some real rubber resi mounts if it comes to it. Just what i had local to me at the time haha

thanks man

 

Ill just test the resi's themselves, not actual fluids.

Fucking engineer....

 

What??

 

this isn't work. This is hilly billy engineering

hey fuck you too

 

Good

 

Wow...

 

And now the moment everyone has been waiting for...glam poser shots

BRAP!

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Awesome write up Monte!

Love reading stuff like this..

 

i know...it was great to stare at haha Matt knows how to make something pretty..

thanks man! Glad you liked it!

 

Yea its a tad high at the moment. It'll settle though i have NO doubt about it. Just needs a run through Shoshone to break in the coils.

But..on the other hand..mega uptravel. haha

 

Yea of course it will. It works fine..just shitty stock mount broke.

I'll make some new rear mounts and a new cross member that'll tie into the belly pan too.

 

Great job, Monte! Loved the youtube video. I love reading this stuff!

 

Makes me want LT even more...that ground clearance...

 

So awesome man; your's and Paul' truck is the tits. I think Im sold on the LT/expo (in the very far future... probably buy your's or Paul's when one of you decide on SAS).

 

Thanks man! Glad you liked it! Hopefully do more vids in the future.

Yeeessssss

Thanks man! Yea it's a great option I think. Worth the extra travel. We will see if I end up SAS...kinda doubt it..but always an option haha

Good to know. I will try and get one in this summer.

Yes..alignment is shit right now haha

It is tall not denying that but I'm confident it'll break in good. I'll run the 700s for the summer and if it comes to it get 650s this winter.