The Frankenstein Build! LT/Expo/Trail rig..and BS

gotchya now. im sure theres something you could make work. i loved my synapse engineering bov as have others i know.

megasquirt is always an option?

 

MS3 would be an option. Gonna look at the MAFT pro again as that is one of the best piggy backs ever. And does map.

 

Ok, that makes a lot more sense.

What Im doing is capping my MAF voltage so your ECU never "sees" the boosted air and continue to tune with the MAP on the piggyback. But as I'm writing this, Im not sure how that would work when tuning primaries. Works great if you have secondary injectors

 

Interesting. Good info Monte, if I were to do the swap I'd go that way. I still wanna keep the 4x4 conversion in mind and doable.

 

How would that be possible with just secondaries? If you're capping the voltage...it's not doing anything. So all your tuning is coming from the map. I'm assuming the fic just turns the secondaries on as needed though? Didn't think the fic could do 12 injectors like that though..

For primaries is easy. You just delete the MAF all together. The piggy back takes the map readings and feeds the stock ECU what it wants to see while it takes care of the real fuel mapping. More involved for tuning but totally do able.

why it's such a tempting swap IMO. But not sure it would be worth it. Idk..more research I think will determine that. Id like to drive a supra with one too. But that probably won't happen. I can drive the 87 supra that I owned. It's a 3.0l straight 6 too. Be a decent enough reference

 

I think the way I'll do it(preferably) if I cant own an MK4 one day, then I'll do the swap lol

 

You let the ECU drive the primaries like it was stock, but as the boost builds, you just cap the MAF so the ECU never see's it. Your primaries will pretty much flat line at this point and you tune the secondary's with the MAP/FIC. What's great about this is depending on when your boost starts to build, you won't be doing too much closed loop tuning and when you are driving around normal, truck drives 100% stock.

I don't think you can delete the MAF without the stock ECU going haywire. At best you would have an engine light on. Probably would want a standalone if you want to do that. You would also need an intake temp feed from somewhere; I think in the end to do it right you would nee a stand alone ECU.

 

I understand some of these words

 

Screw MKIV. Go MKIII

Oh right okay.

and no you don't. Look up the MAFT Pro. I was going to do the same thing on my supra before I sold it. Even had the MAFT pro..lol tuning is more involved than it will be for you. But you don't have to do standalone. Concept is the exact same as you just said. But the MAFT controls the injectors and sends the same output to the stock ecu.

IT sensor is easy to add.

 

Gotcha. Be interested to see how that works... Going to see how my tune turns out with the MAF...

 

Yea it's too bad it's not more convenient to move the MAF pre turbo. Would be better.

But ideally I'd do the exact thing your doing...and who knows may just do that and cough up the 1200 for the port fueler.

But if map tuning works. It's a no brainer to me.

 

Eek! I would call him before clicking the buy button. In fact, I wonder if you can have someone do a one off rail for cheaper.

 

More than just a rail. Doubt I could get one R&D for less.

I'll call for sure. Doubt it'll get it any cheaper really. But can't hurt. Thought I found one a month ago on CT. Pmed the dude never heard back. Texted him today and said he sold it a couple weeks ago but says he is on 750cc primaries with the AEM fic and it runs great..

 

Impressive. Wonder what else he's running and numbers he's putting out. I'm not really a "numbers" guy, however, it's nice to know what your vehicle is truly putting out.

 

I agree. It's good to know for referance anyways. He didn't say though.

 

Bumper build question. Do you recall how the camp light switch is powered?

I have a 5 amp circuit marked "back up lights" on the bluesea block under the hood. When I pull the fuse, the camp light stops working but the back-up lights and the license plate lights also stop working. I am curious if there is an in-line fuse for just the camp light or if all three of these items are common? I can't remember how we did it. I looked for a fuse but didn't see anything.

 

I think they are all connected...i feel like we tried to remember this earlier..

I do remember! I decided to just use one as we figure they'd never really be on at the same time..I think

 

Yeah, we talked a little about this around the campfire or on the CB, can't remember.

So last evening I went out into the garage and saw the camp light glowing. I would guess it was about 1/10th its full brightness. The switch was in the Off position. Clicking it to the On position worked to bring it up to full brightness and clicking it back to the Off position switched it completely off for about 2 or 3 seconds then it began to glow again. Working the switch back and forth seemed to improve the situation tho. After about 20 or so toggles, it stopped glowing but its kinda hard to trust it now.

I think what happened is, it rained reeeaallly hard yesterday afternoon. I mean, a torrential downpour. I suspect the switch got some moisture in it. A mild short?

 

oh wow..Huh. That is very odd. Id guess yes it's the switch. Shoulda found a better water proof one to begin with. No other lights are doing it?

 

Nope. Just the camp light.