The Frankenstein Build! LT/Expo/Trail rig..and BS

Alright @SCRunner12 my URD stuff should be enroute tomorrow. So need these PN to get this thing going. Will be my main project in two weeks and will want everything there.

 

Ok I looked for my bolts but my garage is currently packed for moving so I couldn't really search too well. Basically you need this IAC valve PTR2635042, TRD throttle body gasket (PTR29-60030), three long hex head bolts (2) M8x1.25x170mm, (1) M8x1.25x180mm (@TashcomerTexas can you pull the long bolt on your 1st gen to verify?), 2 step colder spark plugs (IK22 or I can sell you a set of NGK triple electrode equivalent to try).

The long bolts are easy to find online. Also to make it easy, get (4) Socket Head Cap Screws, 8 x 1.25 x 65mm and m8 washers, they are used to attach the Throttle Body to TRD S/C Manifold.

The throttle cable bracket is the only difficult item, but you're pretty creative. Get some steel and measure the mounting point and cut the bracket, it just needs one mounting point for the throttle cable. Someone might have one on here as some guys only use the auto bracket. I'd post a wtb ad.

For hoses and T's I would bring the sc to your local auto parts store and just get small pieces of each size hose and test them on the sc to get the right size. That's what I did then got 3-5 ft of each to be safe.

I can't think of anything else you need, but I think that's it.

 

Sweet. Thanks. I'll get on mccar tonight!

 

I had to do a custom throttle cable bracket lol. You just need to t a couple hoses. The one for the 4wd too

 

Yeah get a box of assorted T's, only need two but better to have options. Also have some hose clamps just in case you need to since any hoses down. For the long bolts I would get two of each size just to be safe in case it's two 180 and one 170, pretty sure it's the other way around but it's been a while.

 

Ok so Ive got a question that I don't think has been gone over in this thread. On my 04 taco I have 2.5 in spacer lift and really want to upgrade to some bilstein 5100's with the 620pd 3 inch extended eibachs like there had been used to be on the frankenstein and get rid of the stupid spacers. FYI I don't have trd package suspension so I don't have bilsteins from factory. Currently, when i jack up the truck, the spindle where the upper ball joints press in rub on the coil spring and the ball joints are at a pretty awkward angle which is i guess as to be expected at full flex. Also i don't have much camber adjustment left with current spacers and the way I'm thinking about it, the 3 in. springs will give me a little back since its not lengthening the entire strut like the spacer, correct? So my question is, with the 3 inch springs and 5100's set @ 0, will it take care of the rubbing ball joint and overall angle of things and the camber adjustment?

 

No it wont.

The 620lb coils will extend the 5100s near the end of their travel. If anything you'll loose more adjustment.

 

Thats what I was afraid of. Do you know of any way to correct the camber adjustment with 3 inches of lift? And I would guess the only way to correct the upper ball joint is new UCA's.

 

So just to clarify. You're sure its your camber that is off?

Yes UCAs will help get better alignments. Unless something is bent on the frame.

 

Just to be clear, adding lift does not directly effect camber. And aftermarket UCAs alone will not help with camber. However, they typically add 2 degrees of caster over stock.

Camber is set with the cam adjusters on the lower control arms. An inability to be able to get the correct camber is typically an indication that the adjusters on the LCA are frozen.

 

Yeah and that's one of my problems there is one of my bushings is frozen so it won't align properly which I'm taking care of this weekend. And I'm pretty sure it's the camber cause the bottom of the tires set in from the top. Unless that's what caster is, I'm not totally sure what caster is.

 

It does effect camber. Adding lift changes the static angle of the LCA/UCA which in turn will effect camber.

Caster is the measure of the upper and lower balljoints being in the same plane vertically aka the upper and lower would be straight up/down at zero caster. + caster means the lower is forward more than the upper. - the opposite

 

Definetly get the busshing fixed. That's your main issue.





On another note. Got my new dynamic tensioner today and my 7th injector kit and 2.1'' pulley. Just need bolts and hose and i'll be ready to start tearing into this thing!

I pulled the entire headliner out today as well...well...more of cut it out. Damn vinyl shit. Going to try and find one of the newer headliners to install at a later time. Should be drilling a ton of holes in the ceiling tonight

 

And bolts ordered. And gasket and IAC

 

Started the process to mount the roof rails. Going to work great.



I'm not sure how to go about painting them yet. Might just bed line them at then ame time as the roof ha

Digging the roof setup though. Going to be nice and simple.

 

Hey monte, what did you use to reseal your oil pan? I used what I thought was an equivalent to ultra black but my oil pan seems to be leaking again.

 

I use Toyota FIPG. best shit ever. It's tricky and my best advice is to make sure it goes on as flat as possible. Hopefully you'll see just a touch ooze out of the edge and then run your finger around it to help create and outer seal.

Always worked for me.

 

Will there be crossbars?

 

Painting them? They'd likely just get scratched up from the tie down points. I'd just leave it bare, use some clear, or maybe powder coat? Or better yet, cover the top face of the rails with tape, and then hit the sides with the raptor liner at the same time that you do the roof and help create a seal between the two.

As for crossbars, I think the best best is some solid aluminum bars between the roof and headliner to help support any additional weight on the roof.

 

Nope. Nothing heavy is ever going up there. The only thing that will is the traction ramps.

Well the tie down points won't be moving. So figured painting with bed liner would be simple enough. Though I've thought about PC. Maybe at some point I'll pc them. Don't like the bare look though but looks aren't all important anyways.

And as said above. Never be anything super heavy. The three tie downs will be plenty to hold down the ramps. And they are already super strong. Don't even have all the bolts in and can fully lean on them.