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The Getaway...Crom's build and adventures

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Builds (2005-2015)' started by Crom, Feb 11, 2015.

  1. Sep 8, 2016 at 9:59 AM
    #2301
    Bman4X5

    Bman4X5 There is no substitute for square inches.

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    Bilstein, Dakar/Icon, Prinsu, CBI, Pelfreybilt, Tepui
    At least half of the stuff I've done to my truck was a direct rip-off from @Crom. Smart guy for sure.
     
    geoyota760, jubei, AZ-TACO13 and 8 others like this.
  2. Sep 8, 2016 at 10:08 AM
    #2302
    Scott B.

    Scott B. Well-Known Member

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    Not a "rip-off", rather a "re-use" of a good idea.

    Semantics matter! LOL

    Yes, I'm a software guy...
     
  3. Sep 8, 2016 at 10:24 AM
    #2303
    Crom

    Crom [OP] Super-Deluxe Member

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    Nick
    San Diego, CA
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    Millions
    You're welcome. Glad you like it, and hope you find it useful for your build.

    I've learned a ton myself here on TW, so nice to give back in some way.

    ^Pretty much this. ;)
     
  4. Sep 8, 2016 at 2:20 PM
    #2304
    Gaunt596

    Gaunt596 Well-Known Member

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    Central Maryland
    I'm pretty sure that were on track to have a "must do mods" list based off of your truck.
     
  5. Sep 8, 2016 at 3:51 PM
    #2305
    Crom

    Crom [OP] Super-Deluxe Member

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    Nick
    San Diego, CA
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    Millions
    I think the build appeals to many people because I think it's practical and people can relate.

    Sometimes in my head I'll rank the mods in order of what I would do if I was building all over again from scratch.

    I think I would do the first parts in order again.
    1. Floor mats
    2. Seat Covers
    3. Window Tint
    4. Rock Sliders
    5. Truck Shell
    6. Off road tires
    That's like 80% build right there. :D

    Then branch out from there with enhancements as time and budget allows.

    7. Sound Proof
    8. L-track, cargo track
    9. Suspension​

    I think the suspension is where it gets tricky, because there are so many dependencies and hidden cause and effects. I ran the stocker suspension with the TSB 4-leaf pack for 6 years before replacing it. Never once gave me a problem! lol So much win! Truck had limits, but it worked! :D
     
    OdinBow, AZ-TACO13, nfs257 and 5 others like this.
  6. Sep 8, 2016 at 11:58 PM
    #2306
    Gaunt596

    Gaunt596 Well-Known Member

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    yeah, im still on the fence about the OME kit i have waiting for the truck and if theres anything else besides the base kit i should have/get/do with the install.
     
    ChadsPride likes this.
  7. Sep 12, 2016 at 7:34 PM
    #2307
    IronPeak

    IronPeak PermaLurker

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    AuggieX
    Back to Back
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    2007 sr5 4x4 DCLB/2015 TRD sport 4x4 DCLB sold
    Bigger Taller Slower
    So with your lift, you needed the spacer on the front superbumps? Was it to protect the shock, or your upper wheel well? I'm ordering mine and was hoping to hear from you regarding proper spacing. Thx , auggie
     
    Crom[QUOTED][OP] and ChadsPride like this.
  8. Sep 12, 2016 at 8:03 PM
    #2308
    Crom

    Crom [OP] Super-Deluxe Member

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    Spacers were strictly for stopping the tall tires from hitting tops of wheel wells under heavy compression. They seemed to have worked based on last two wheeling trips.

    In the not too distant future I'll be doing some front end work... When that happens I'll pull the coil over out and test for clearance all the way around including confirming bump stop height.

    :)
     
  9. Sep 12, 2016 at 8:06 PM
    #2309
    IronPeak

    IronPeak PermaLurker

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    Ok great thanks. Since I've decided to stay with a 265 tire, I'm going to install the superbumps without the spacer. I'm going to include them in my order anyway as they are 10$ as insurance in case I need them in the future. Thanks again!
     
  10. Sep 13, 2016 at 2:37 AM
    #2310
    Joshua.Wolff

    Joshua.Wolff Slacker

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    Kaneohe, HI
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    I found your post six days ago...image.jpg
    It's good to see sunlight again. My legs are so very numb from sitting on the toilet that long.

    My photo album on my phone is about 40 pictures heavier since starting to read this thread. I also have about 100 new tabs open on links to other builds you've used.

    You have ruined me...and I thank you for it.
     
    flash5twelve, BDub, Crom[OP] and 5 others like this.
  11. Sep 13, 2016 at 2:39 AM
    #2311
    DrFunker

    DrFunker Well-Known Member

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    :laughing:
     
    Soul Surfer and ChadsPride like this.
  12. Sep 13, 2016 at 12:46 PM
    #2312
    Crom

    Crom [OP] Super-Deluxe Member

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    Millions
    How to convert the Tacoma to Front Wheel Drive (FWD)!

    This mod has the following benefits.
    • Increased ground clearance.
    • Increased steering response.
    • Elimination of drive line vibrations for lifted applications.
    • Elimination of vibes from Toyota defective differential needle bearing. No need for ECGS bushing!!!
    • Completely free!
    • Completely reversible!
    For this mod you need to be extra careful you don't kill yourself. Lots to go wrong here, details matter.

    The first step should be to chock block your front wheels.
    Second step is to jack the rear axle and place on jack stands at both ends.
    Make sure vehicle is secure by pushing it. Then release parking brake, put the trans in neutral.
    Confirm drive shaft can be spun by hand.
    Place a jack stand under each end drive shaft with a few inches of clearance.
    Loosen and remove four (4) 14mm nuts and bolts on rear drive shaft. Don't worry it shouldn't fall out.
    Remove metal bands holding slip yoke cover on
    Remove 14mm nuts at the transfer case.
    Remove (2) 14mm bolts holding the center support bearing.
    Separate drive shafts and remove in two parts. Use a rubber mallet if you need to. Use jack stands to help hold the shaft while you work.
    Remove all tools from under the truck, and clean your work area.
    Start truck and shift into H4 (formerly 4WD). :p, Put trans in Park, and shut truck off, apply parking brake.
    Remove jack stands from rear axle.
    Then go drive your newly converted FWD truck!

    Look at all the ground clearance!
    [​IMG]

    Clearance for days!
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    You can put your old drive shaft on a shelf somewhere and mod is completely reversible!

    Since my mod was permanent, rather than trow it in the trash, I donated it!

    [​IMG]

    Hooray for front wheel drive!

    :D
     
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2016
  13. Sep 13, 2016 at 12:49 PM
    #2313
    Yamaha_TacoR1

    Yamaha_TacoR1 Very slow racer

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    - 5100/885's, 5100/Icon 3leaf progressive AAL with overload left in, 1/4" Taco lean spacer - ARE Z Series camper shell with Yakima rack system - Tepui Ayer Rooftop Tent - Prinsu Design Cabrac with heavy duty anadized bars - WeatherTech window deflectors/floor liners/bug deflector - Ultragauge MX1.3 - PopnLock codable locking tailgate handle - TRD shift knob - 3M tint - Extang solid fold2.0 tonneu cover - OEM Tacoma muffler tip - OEM Tacoma side steps - OEM Tacoma bed mat - OEM Tacoma roof rack - OEM TRD PRO front grille in matte black - OEM TRD PRO headlights - Fastway FLASH "Solid-Tow" adjustable aluminum ball mount hitch - Reese dual hitch ball covers - Masterlock locking J pin - GoPro windshield mount - Door trim protectors - Side mirror 'fish eyes' - Thule T2 hitch mount 2 bike carrier - LEDs: Map/Dome, 3rd brake, license plate, parking lights, reverse CREE's - SEMA TRD PRO 17" black matte wheels - 265/70/17 BFG A/T KO2s - Black Widow 40" x 95" 3 piece powder-coated folding bed ramp - Mobtown Offroad ribbed tailgate reinforcement skin - GRIDiT center console organizer - Salex center console organizer - Marco Extreme Blast black premium train air horn - 'ImmrYo' Rearview mirror relocate bracket - Mattgecko's Sliding window security bar - Rigid tow rear hitch shackle - Plasti-dipped gunmetal emblems - Blacked out ACEkraut's front license plate relocate bracket - De-flapped (OEM mud flaps gone) - Uniden XL520 CB Radio - Shmellmopwho's CB antenna bed mount - 3ft Firestik II CB antenna - BirdDawg Industries Tech Deck Extreme version w/ 3 Ram 1" ball mounts - Ram Mounts: iPhone6/iPad Mini4 X Grips with 1" dual ball sockets - Garmin GLO portable GPS & GLONASS receiver - Depo LED tail lights with blacked-out inner housing - Various Velcro backed patches on the headliner - 3D-Cell LED Maglite mounted to the driver seat - 4XInnovation DOM weld on sliders with kickouts (welded at 20degree angle) - 4XInnovation Hi Lift bed mounting system - Hi Lift All cast 60" jack with optional handle holder - Lotus Development Hi Lift slider adapter - Relentless Fabrifacfions dual bed rail mounts with dual Quick Fists - Salex glovebox organizer system - YETI vintage bottle opener mounted to the bed - TRD Sport style aftermarket epoxy resin decals for WT front mats - Rigid Industries LED D2 spot lights (Midnight edition) - CBI spot light hood mounts - Air on Board "Zombie Lights" switch - Rebadged WeatherTech floor liners with custom TRD Sport emblems - GoPro Hero 3+ windshield mounted - Mattgecko's cool white LED bedlight kit v2 - 1.25" Spidertrax wheel spacers - Maxsa Escaper Buddy traction boards (mounted on top of Prinsu Cabrac) - 42" Plano Weatherproof gun case (mounted on top of Prinsu Cabrac) - 2gal Rotopax gasoline can, mounting plate, DLX pack mount (mounted on top of Prinsu Cabrac) - Bestek 150W power inverter DC 12V to 110 V - DBPower 600A car jump starter/booster - SOS Off-road Concepts Factory recovery replacement mount - ARB 30' Recovery strap - ARB EZDeflator - Smittybilt receiver hitch D ring with 3/3" shackle - Bosch Icon wiper blades - RCI IFS steel skid plate - Trasharoo trash bag - mounted on tailgate - Lamin X yellow fog lamp covers - Aftermarket illuminated air conditioning/heater/vent knobs - Toyota full frame replacement - Spring 2023 ================================ Future mods: - Rear diff breather relocate - Foglights anytime - Install external speaker for CB - Install mattgecko bedlight kit
    You've been on the toilet reading this great thread for 6 whole days? Well damn
     
  14. Sep 13, 2016 at 12:50 PM
    #2314
    DrFunker

    DrFunker Well-Known Member

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    :thumbsup: You are one for the books Crom! :bowdown:
     
  15. Sep 13, 2016 at 12:50 PM
    #2315
    slolane

    slolane Well-Known Member

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    Im gonna guess you are goin single piece shaft?? Tom woods?
     
    Soul Surfer, ChadsPride and Crom[OP] like this.
  16. Sep 13, 2016 at 12:51 PM
    #2316
    O906

    O906 Well-Known Member

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    I actually drove around in an old Jeep Cherokee I had one time front wheel drive for a week while I waited on a new one to be shipped to me.
     
    Soul Surfer, ChadsPride and Crom[OP] like this.
  17. Sep 13, 2016 at 12:53 PM
    #2317
    Crom

    Crom [OP] Super-Deluxe Member

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    Nah I'm just messing around. I'm gonna use the stock carrier bearing. I did take it to a shop because I could not separate the yoke. I tried several different ways, but it was not coming apart. Jealous of those that did it without fuss.
     
  18. Sep 13, 2016 at 12:58 PM
    #2318
    samiam

    samiam Always here, never there

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  19. Sep 13, 2016 at 1:00 PM
    #2319
    Crom

    Crom [OP] Super-Deluxe Member

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    I ended up cutting the carrier off with angle grinder, tin snips on the rubber.

    [​IMG]

    Here is the shaft, actual bearing, and yoke.
    [​IMG]

    You can see the splines on the yoke and the shaft. I tried two different pullers and even tapped on it a little in a vice. Not budging.
    [​IMG]

    Did not want to F it up, so took it to a drive line shop. I just got to get him the NIB carrier.

    I picked up (3) Spicer 5-1330-1X U-Joint Kit's for $10 each thanks to Amazon Warehouse deals. :yes:

    Drive line shop guy is going to press them for $10 each and I'll have a completely rebuilt shaft, which should last the life of the truck.

    I should note that all of my factory u-joints with 69,500 miles on them are absolutely perfect.
     
    DrFunker, Soul Surfer and ChadsPride like this.
  20. Sep 13, 2016 at 1:16 PM
    #2320
    Scott B.

    Scott B. Well-Known Member

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    Wow - only 70,000 miles on the carrier bearing...

    It should last longer than that.

    Traditionally, I change u-joints and carrier bearing (if equipped) every 100,000 miles.

    Oh well, now it will last you for many more years!
     
    ChadsPride likes this.

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