The Getaway...Crom's build and adventures

Nick,

A quick fix is to fill the space with a 1/4" thick washer. A better fix is to increase the bearing surface of the skid plate mount on the frame. (I'm sure you know this.)

Weld some 1/4" to the bottom of the frame, and shorten the skid plate mounting towers...

 

In this case, the skid plate did not fail. The aluminum held up fine.

 

that maybe no aluminum fail, but the aluminum did 'warp' as it took the hit. the steel skid i just looked at is prolly way more weight, has the same type of
mounting point tube, but it is claimed the gussets will prevent such deflection of skid at that angle are just in front of mounting tube. must be the truck frame is the weak link.

 

A punch is a punch. In other words, steel would do the same IMO.

Thanks. I need a quick fix, leaving soon. I'll see if the washer works. but I am missing about 1/4" purchase on the threads unless I get a longer bolt

The aluminum skid sprung back into shape just fine. There was a fu*k load of tension when I released the bolts. It was the steel frame that was bent.

The frame is thin sheet metal where the studs meet frame. More surface area needed.

 

In the same manner, gussets would help the aluminum as well.

Yes, it seems the truck frame was/is the weak link.

But, I have seen/read many threads where the skid plates have taken hard hits. Why has no one noticed the frame deforming?

 

That’s a bummer Nick! You should complain to Pelfrey... oh wait...

I agree that’s a bad design. Perhaps not obvious at first but your experience makes it clear that mounting scheme is not a good idea. Your post made me go back and look at my RCI skid install photos and their approach is interesting:

​

They put no mounting holes in that region at all and instead gusseted at the bend and most likely impact edge. That puts the most likely impact point far away from any mounting surface or bolt and makes it likely that impact will be transferred over a much larger area as well as being dampened a bit by some flex in the plate.

At first blush the RCI method would seem less robust with fewer mounting points but as you’ve shown it isn’t necessarily true more is better!

Hope you get things sorted before your trip and have a great time!

P.S. I have some minor hits like yours along the front of my skid these days.

 

Had to go out and check mine because of "noises". No contact yet but also can't remember having a impact on the skid to date.

 

you might be able to pop that back out by sliding in a plate through that large access hole beside the skid plate mount, and threading a smaller than the threaded hole bolt into it, then using a slide hammer or similar to pull the dent back out.

 

I wondered this myself. Why has this issue not been seen before? I don't know. I do know the the way the pelfrey model skid is designed is a terrible design. To add insult to injury, I tried to switch out the bolts for fresh ones. They are M12 x.1.25 with 17mm head. No luck, the fu**king tubes/mounting studs interfered with the replacement bolts which had a 19mm head, the socket would not fit bolt head while in the tube when tightening the second bolt. Complete waste of my time. I had to use my crusty old Toyota hardware to reinstall.

In my opinion, the design would work fine for crawling and sliding over rocks, no issue there. It's the direct strike impact on the mounting stud that's a problem.

Ken, you chose wisely.

The RCI design is much smarter. Also they have a superior method when mounting to the trans cross member as well.
If you ever had to pull your skids while out on the trail to say remove your drive shaft or something, the RCI skids make this a lot easier, where the Pelfrey model would make it considerably more time consuming and difficult because they replace the (4) bolts that hold together a frame cross member.

When I chose these model skids, I didn't think critically about any of this, rather I choose them because they were 4 miles from where I lived. In hindsight, that was a mistake.

Oh well.

I was going to ask you to take a look at yours so we could compare. But I got it worked it for now. Thanks.

Thanks.

I solved my current dilemma with two actions. I created a large plastic bushing out of HDPE which allowed the skid to mount close to square again.


I also notched the skid to avoid frame contact.

 

Yesterday I got an alignment (78,024 miles). Happy to see only toe was out. Was in and out of the shop in 45 minutes.

My cams haven't had any unwanted movement post-install of the TC Cam tab gussets.

Yesterday I wiped them down, cleaned them and indexed them fresh with bright blue paint. Also indexed tie rod adjustment nut, rear suspension bolts, skid plate bolts and a few others.

 

One of these is older than the other.




Which one do I use?



My 6.5 year daughter old helped me zip it up and then I have a custom cut brown tarp that covers the boot to mitigate water/dust intrusion. Works really well.

 

Invested a little money and Put some time into the Tacoma.

• I carefully and thoroughly cleaned my auxiliary door seals. And did minor repair where necessary.

• Replaced an 8' run of wire for my 5V appliance. It had a USB receptacle that went bad.

• Tore down Hi-Lift thoroughly cleaned and inspected before reassembling and remounted on gate.

• Greased gate lock pin.

• Cleaned interior, truck bed, and swing gate.

• Acquired flexible waterproof small bins to help kids stay organized in back seats.

• Constructed personalized LTE enabled entertainment stations for each kid.

• Mounted propane tank and routed supply hose to rear of bed.

• Took inventory and repacked Tacoma toolbox.

• Painted shovels.

• Acquired a carry case for camp stove

Test drove the truck and it's confirmed that it is awesome once again. Truck feels smooth and luxurious.

 

I took my family camping when school let out. Gone for a week and it was fantastic! I'll try allocate some time to share. We did the usual, water play every day, soak, hiking, target shoot (BB), explore nature, eat yummy food, kids got to practice driving, etc.

For now, here is me dorking around in Photoshop, trying to reacquire lost skills...



On our trip, I broke a few things.

• Kitchen box (1) wheel exploded, when I mishandled the box
• Truck shell door, broke a plastic swing arm thing where it interlocks with tailgate.
• Broke the mechanical test plug that serves as a door on my ABS pipe. Got ran over by a car and was irreparable.
• Wife ripped out silicone gasket from Mega Mat deflate valve. Thanks wife. I got to feel the ground better for three of five nights.

I also made myself a list of things to refine for future trips. Need more time.

 

Our beautiful home for 2% of the 2019 year ​

 

Teaser!

 

@Crom how did you seal up your bed from dust? Also what spots should I be concerned with. I have a Snugtopcanopy that’s water tight but dust is pouring in through a few gaps at the tailgate.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...d-and-adventures.362772/page-37#post-11379261

Also:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/bed-cubby-caps-for-sale.496396/

 

The post @Drainbung linked to is helpful. Lots has changed since then though. I was greatly helped when I repaired my tailgate and got the alum replacement skin. I covered it low profile carpet which is amazing at trapping dust. The alum skin has square edges and and made sealing things a lot easier. My dust issues have calmed down a lot since then. I can wheel in the worst dust and while some comes in, it's a f-ton more manageable.

 

In the last 2 years I've had issues with my radio randomly switching inputs when driving. Happens on smooth pavement and off-road.

I am using AUX input 100% of the time because I use a good Bluetooth transceiver. All music is controlled through mobile devices. It works extremely well as any person in the car can connect BT and play their playlists, etc.

I have not been able to troubleshoot this proper, but the symptom is that the JBL head unit seemingly randomly switches from AUX to CD, or AUX to FM.

I have since ejected all CD's and discarded them. So now it just switches from AUX to FM exclusively.

I found one obscure reference in the forum that said it could be a sign of a clock-spring wire harness going out in the steering wheel. This makes a lot of sense. as that is what connects the steering controls to the head unit.

Whatever the cause is, I hope to isolate and resolve it without too much trouble. Super annoying.

As a side note, the volume control on the head unit went wonky about 5 years ago and is unpredictable when adjusting vol. It is a defect as it's been reported by many folks over time.

 

My 2009 Tacoma non-JBL Head-unit needed to replaced under warranty. At the time it had low miles. The volume quit working while on a road Trip. So yeah they were having issues with the HU.
They pulled mine and installed a Temporary one while it was sent out to be fixed, then re-installed it afterward.

Your Truck is looking Stellar as Always