The Getaway...Crom's build and adventures

One thing to remember about the protruding studs: while they may work fine with your specific set of wheels, a wheel without the cavity will not fit. (Think spare tire - out in the desert, you have shredded multiple tires, and have to borrow someone's spare.)

I am running spacers on my teardrop to compensate for the backspacing on my wheels, and had a similar situation. I ended up cutting the studs, just in case I have to use a non-cavity wheel.

That being said, my 7 1/2" wide FJ wheels have less backspacing than the Tacoma wheels, and I do not have a rubbing problem (and have not done a CMC).

Paid for wheels are nice, but also have value to sell to cover part of the cost of new wheels.

 

If you can, remove your c/o and cycle the supension - I will give you a better perspctive. First with no spacer. Then with spacer or use washers to move it out. I have to do the same since I need to trim my bumper but I want to make it so that I hear NOTHING other than the blower screaming on a romp down a desert trail.

 

I dread going back to spacers and am hoping that when I relocate I can squeeze by.

I'm with you on the 7.5s, just 17s tho....

Sequoia wheels FTW!

 

1st gen Tacoma rims have 1/2" less backspacing. That could be a cheap (or free after you sell your stock rims) option.

Edit: At least that's what I've heard.

 

That's an awesome idea. What a wonderful resource craigs list is. I've sold so much baby stuff on there and other household goods. Got my TRD OR spare wheel for $50 there.... I never ever want to buy new wheels as long as I live. lol

Thanks Eric!

Very true. If that happens, I'll chop the cab mount in a hurry. No problems with that.

If I do end up with different wheels, I want them to be very close or lighter than the ones I have now. I want to keep the unsprung weight down.

I found out in the 255/85/16 thread, that the Toyos are indeed the largest in the 255 tall and skinny 33" class. I like them a lot, the rubbing isn't too bad, but it's annoying.

I am running the stock Toyota a-arm. If I switch to an aftermarket UCA now I will rub it because of the tall tire. I confirmed this with one vendor via phone call. My next move after making space, with different wheel or spacer, is to get UCA to correct alignment.

Running a spacer of any kind does scare me, but I've read enough to know that the Bora one, is solid, and if installed right, should be fine.

There is also another downside to wheel spacer. It adds more unsprung weight.

I love hearing stuff like this! Thank you.

Appreciated Scott. My spare is a TRD OR wheel. So in the event I do go spacer I should be covered. You bring up a good point though, in an emergency of sorts, the studs-in the way, could be an issue.

That would work I think. I think the max backspacking I would want would be 4.75", so in theory a first gen wheel would do that...

A worthy exercise for sure. Just need time to do it.


I will contemplate everyones input. Very appreciated. I have time to decide too. I'll get some wheels on a short list that would work and scan Craigs list...

 

Again, since you asked... I'd get new wheels; steering clear of spacers. I purchased used FJ/4Runner wheels. I'm running 17" wheels, though. If I remember correctly, the FJC wheels have a 4.5" backspace. With 33" tires, I had just a smudge of rubbing on the front driver wheel well/air dam.

And as said above, finding used Toyota wheels does not have to be hard or expensive.

 

Yeup.. I have 40$ on 6 Sequoia 17" wheels.

Edit: make that 10$. I forgot I talked the lady down to 30$ and I sold my 17" steelie for 20$.

 

Let me add this:

Keep those rims as long as you can

1. They are easy to find if you need a new one
2. They are OEM quality
3. They have a decent bead retention
4. They were designed for the suspension
5. And the best reason, IIRC, they have the mag lug seat type lug nuts that are more appropriate for a hub centric wheel - the conical seat lug nuts are, to my knowledge (and I could be full of crap), the conical style are more appropriate for lug centric wheels.

My most recent experience related to this is my wheel busting off my axle on the 57 fwy at 65 MPH...







I know a number of peeps that have had this rite of passage happen to them but, to my knowledge, none with the Off Road mag lug seat type of lug nut/wheel.

 

Oh my! That's nuts! Were those Toyota studs that sheared off?

Was this a recent incident for your truck? Were you able to steer straight when it happened?


The Toyota studs are pretty strong from what @MonkeyProof and other trusted sources have said.

I've seen studs shear from heavy wheel tire combo 35", and wheel spacer iirc, freeway incident too.

Mine have never been seriously over torqued and threads are good. But I do worry about excessive wear on/off for all the modding, etc.I've done.

I looked into Tacoma 1st gen 5-star alloy wheels. They have the features I want, 7" wide, 4.5" backspace. And easy to get. I don't know for sure how good bead retention is, and now that you mention it, is critical to know if they are mag seat lugs.

lol

I savagely used my tire iron prybar to dismount the Duratrac, mount my Toyo. lol and you could not really tell afterwards! Haha

 

Sheared may be a bit strong a word. I'd say it was more an issue of fatigue. Remember by nature there's a stress riser right there. I have put the suspension through it's paces - a very rare but occasional 4 wheel sailing as well. I am sure they progressed over time.

My current wheels are aftermarket wheels that have been made into beadlocks by OMF. I am going to check how close the hub opening is on this wheel compared to the OEM rims. I am seriously considering going back to my TRD fake beadlocks. Plus I'll get my sonic air down method back.

This happened two nights ago. A little bump and then a thump and I was throwing sparks. Not too much differnt than running on a flat - just lower.

Yes Toyota original studs (~100k miles). IIRC I thought Tom lost a wheel under this scenario as well. I've already ordered new ARP studs (Lexus app). I think I will do the rear bearings and reseal the ARB while I'm at it.

The ARP studs should be fine for another 90,000

 

And to ensure my arm is properly calibrated, I picked up a HF click type torque wrench to keep in the truck. With coupon $11

 

I like these studs...

 

Awesome Crom! I just read over the DV15 report. I linked over from the DV OR thread. We will be going after Easter for 4 days.
I'm going to base camp in Furnace Creek (with family and trailer) and want to go up Echo canyon to Inyo mine one day. Did you go up the road that leads out of Echo canyon toward Lees camp? I want to sample it if its not too bad but only go up to the ridge and turn around. Then see the tourist sites S of Furnace Creek.
The only other full day I'd like to do Chloride Cliff, Beatty, Titus and back. Is it better to go out to the 95 after Chloride or back the way we came then on the Beatty. What would be the time needed for that trip? The wife and kids can only take so much bounding around? You've inspired me to do this and the wife is on board now and the kids will be out of school so its booked. Thanks

 

Been there done that..that was us on the 210 heading for a run.
Just about 600 bucks to get it back on the road. I didn't have ABS for over 2 years because a machine shop failed to properly press on the wheel bearing, total pain in the ass..

 

I don't remember saying the studs were strong. More then likely my studs were overly tired and stretched because I'm always taking my wheels off for prepping for each run that I do.

 

May not be a bad idea to swap out studs anytime we swap out wheel bearings - certainly the time to do it while you have them apart.

 

@HBMurphy and @MonkeyProof - Sorry I'm a little confused but this seems like an important issue to understand! Are either of you saying that certain kinds of aftermarket wheels are more likely to cause the OEM lugs to fail? Or are you just saying after enough time of rough use the lugs might go and so we should perhaps replace them as preventative maintenance at some interval?

Just confused because the topic seemed to come up with reference to keeping the OEM wheels as a benefit.

Thanks!

 

1. IMO OE wheels are closer to the design engineers of our trucks and should have tighter manufacturing standards.

2. Like any bolt or stud, they suffer from fatigue over time. I am saying that if your bearing goes, that's a pretty good indicator that you studs have gone through a good amount of cycles and while you have it apart, changing them is good insurance.

 

Also our trucks are designed as hub centric - meaning that the bulk of the weight bearing should be done by the hub and the center bore of the wheel. The studs should be taking the tension load of holding the wheel on to the hub. Many of the aftermarket wheels are designed to use conical lug nuts. Conical lug nuts are designed to center the lug into the bore hole for the stud. If the concept of the hub taking the weight bearing of the wheel truck combo is working as designed, there should not be any centering required for the lug nut to the stud hole. If the center bore and the lug stud holes are not precise, the conical lug nut could add to the adverse cycling on the stud.

Put another way...

http://youtu.be/5hMAaOdNkgI

But really, I am serious and, may be partially full of shit. I have worked on product development for GM and McDonnell Douglas and have a MEch/Aero degree but that does not mean that I know any more than the average guy. Bottom line is that things fail. Replace the things that fail most often and you may not be caught in the boonies stuck on a trail.

 

You're right. I interpreted what you wrote to say that when you recommended the OEM studs over the Trail Gear ones. My bad.

Thanks for chiming in.

I will be doing that.

Rotated my tires today, and other minor maintenance. headed to Anza Borrego for family camping.

That's a good idea DD. I wondered how much fun it is to press out and in new studs would be.

Hope everybody has a good weekend!