The Getaway...Crom's build and adventures

I am running these, and am very pleased.

I run normal (stock) caster/camber numbers (not the 3* some people do), the truck handles great and the tires only rub occasionally in one spot.

 

what did u do with the bumper that was in the accident>?

 

I saw the 3/8" and wanted to be able to get more or less with a simple chop of a miter saw. McMaster Carr is down the block so I can willcall within an hour. I'm also thinking about adding a plate where the bump strike is as well.

 

Pretty remarkable stuff, if you ask me. More food for thought. Thank you.

Appreciated. I need the UCA to correct the alignment. I've grown tired of driving with zero caster. I've gotten used to it, but this last weekend It seemed worse than usual, It was probably the heavy wind I was driving in. However it made me also think about the steering rack bushings... I looked into changing them out to poly. What a pain those are going to be. I know you've already pulled your steering rack out... How much fun is that? Found a write up over here on that

Anyways, I've delayed doing the proper exercise of cycling the suspension with coilover removed, because I only want to do it once with aftermarket UCA. That time is this month. I can't wait!

Glad to hear it. I can't wait to get some caster back. It's amazing what a few degrees in the right direction will do.

 

Actually, I only replaced the tie rods. I've never pulled my rack.
Not looking forward to it, but if you lived closer I'd gladly change out your steering rack while you sound deadened my cab. Envious of that little project of yours.
Don't know if I have the patience for it.

 

Pretty sure that is RCI's aluminum skid, which I'm running, too. See the skid is a different color then the cross member? I've found their aluminum skids to be very tough.

 

with regards to the aluminum vs steel conversation. I went through the same thing, and the end decision for me was the ability to repair and and on. Although you can repair aluminum, generally once it is bent it looses a significant amount of strength and it's good for the garbage. Steel on the other hand can be repaired and still hold a significant amount of strength. With my skids this worked out well as I was not only able to straighten but reinforce. Yes you could have done this with aluminum but it is a little more difficult than steel.
Dropped off a rock and bent the mid skid. Notice this was right on the 90 degree bend, where it is generally hardest to bend.
Added some scrap steel and good to go.

This is the good thing with steel. A lot easier to add on to compared to aluminum. Again not impossible but difficult and generally more expensive. If down the road I want to add something to my bumpers (fender bars, tire gate, mounts for exo (thinking very far outside the box on that one), or something as simple as welding light tabs) I can a lot easier if it's steel compared to aluminum. Again not impossible but for me I would have to get a whole welding setup to do this work which not a whole lot of people are setup for. Again not impossible to find but generally more expensive.

Something else to consider....

 

...but you're a pro at it by now.

 

This isn't really true. I'm inferring that you're referring to fatigue life. If that's the case, one dent doesn't ruin aluminum just like one dent doesn't ruin steel. If this were the case, my aluminum mountain bike would have been junk several thousand miles ago. Aluminum "loses" against steel when it experiences multiple cycles of bending metal back and forth. Also, it's not really true that steel can be welded on with no consequence while aluminum can't be welded on. Steel also gets brittle when welded on. This is why we occasionally see welded-on rock slider peel off sections of frame (and why I went with bolt on sliders).

 

Camburg is less than 100yrds away from me. Are you coming to pick them up? LOLOLOL

 

That would be a good trade. I really enjoy the sound proofing work. Tomorrow I need to write down all the changes I've noted since accomplishing the doors and roof before I forget.

If you do take it on, my advice is do one door at a time over a few days in good weather.

Thanks.

It will be 4 times! I'll probably install before sunrise, to keep wife happy.

No need to debate it here in my build. I know what he was getting at. TIG is harder than MIG etc...

I've watched hours and hours of TIG welding videos on YouTube. All I need is $1K and an Eastwood TIG machine, plasma cutter and I'm going to town on some custom projects I have queued up. one day...

I've never heard of welded sliders peeling off pieces of frame, but if that's true, I'd say that they were improperly welded, not enough penetration.

I ordered thru Wheelers in Oregon, best price I could find. Told me I'd have to wait though, supply issues...

 

Thanks Crom. You hit it on the head. steel is generally cheaper and easier to work with. With regard to strength I am thinking if a bumper got bent due to hitting a deer or something not just a little dent. The steel could be bent back or straightened. The aluminum you could just build a new section. That's all I was getting at. If your set up to tig then really the only down fall is just the price of aluminum compared to steel. Everything else is an upside I guess.

Interested to see what you come up with. Usually everything you do is pretty well thought out. Hopefully I didn't miss something when going about my thought process of which to get. My trucks getting pretty heavy now so the aluminum would have been nice. However I am only set up to weld steel which has already been helpful.

 

So that wreck only slightly bent one of your recovery points? I looked for pics of your bumper post accident in your build thread but couldn't find any.

I assume you hit the car with the center of your bumper? I smacked a couple deer at 50ish in my truck. I hit them dead center with my sos aluminum bumper and the bumper was completely fine. I wonder if they would have bent the wings any if I hit the deer directly with one of the wings.

 

The stories of deer being vaporized by plate bumpers, with virtually no damage to tacoma never fail to bring a simile to my face.

 

Good. The topic has turned to skids. I can jump in now.

I've already decided on aluminum skids. Mainly to keep the weight down and that I don't do crazy ass rock busting stuff.

I got into the RCI GB and already received my front three (IFS, Tranny, T-Case.) Decision was mainly based on price, since all other things seemed relatively equal compared to other manufacturers.

I'm still deciding on the fuel tank and rear diff.
Rear diff, not likely. Fuel tank, yes.

I think I want to go with Pelfreybilt (PB) Aluminum skids, because they are thicker than the RCI equivalent (1/4" vs 3/16") AND the design of the PB skid seems to be more "skid-like"

Below are photos from their websites.

Pelfreybilt: Note how the front part of skid is bolted to a frame cross-member (I think) and there is bolt head "protection" welded on (the triangle thingy's)



RCI: Note how bolt attachment points are only on the OEM Toyota Fuel tank straps. Nothing bolted to frame.


I am hoping Crom and his loyal, relatively sane followers can weigh-in. Bonus points if input is based on experience or ownership of skids up for discussion.

For additional consideration, PB skid is cheaper by 40 bucks

 

I have a Pelfreybilt aluminum skid (actually 4 of them) under my gas tank. Definitely a great product.

I have never seen the RCI in person, but I could not be happier with the PB skid.

EDIT: Yes, the "triangle thingys" protect the nuts/studs of the gas tank straps.

 

Yup and rubbed scuffed some powdercoat, I hit on the passenger side. Every picture posted after the accident is with the "damaged" bumper. My new one is still sitting in the box

 

Cant wait to hear your report on those UCA's.

 

I have the Pelfreybilt aluminum gas tank skid, I would buy it again without considering other options. Disclaimer: I like aluminum, and I'm a PB fan.

 

Just looking at the pictures and specs I'd choose the PB one. It's only 12 lbs.

Back in January we were discussing the 8 lbs UHMW gas tank skid, unfortunately no longer available. I really liked that option.

My TRD OR has an inexpensive factory plastic gas tank skid that is has taken a few scrapes and is otherwise holding up well.

Thanks. Lots of positive reports from others in the forum so I'm expecting lots of goodness from them. These will be the first non-binding poly bushing UCA I've run. Glad I got the ball joint too since I don't like vehicle noises, and I don't think I could handle squeaky uni ball.

Since it looks like UCA install won't happen until sometime in April, I'll probably jump on the spindle gusset exchange and do that at the same time. Crossing fingers for the plan.