The infamous click up front…GOING DOWN!

Your welcome! Hit up @Welds_taco on instagram for the kit

 

First, thank you guys for all the info, greatly appreciated.

Brought my truck in for this, the 'tightened the camber bolts'.

My question is, does Toyota have a fix for this at this point? Or is this something that needs to be wholly handled on the owner's side?

Cheers and make it a great day.

 

I swapped the bolts out this weekend while installing my TRD lift. The amount of play between the bolt and the shock was about the same with both the old and new bolts. Even with the longer shoulder, the bolt is not a tight fit in the shock. I wonder if the whole premise of this mod is wrong? I suspect it's actually the clamping force of the shock mount on the metal part of the bushing that holds it in place. Even if the bushing can slide in the shock mount, it can't rotate.

The new bolts are slightly shorter, but there is full thread engagement. The length difference might only matter if you're a robot in the factory.

 

What you have to keep in mind is the use of the aftermarket bolt with a longer shoulder than the 4R bolt. That was the original modification. Insert the AM bolt as you did in your photos, and you will see the difference.

The aftermarket shoulder helps support the entire bushing sleeve. It’s been over a year since the installation with a lot of wheeling/articulation, and my Taco is still click free.

 

I might be confused, or thinking of a different thread about 4runner bolts. Are you saying the aftermarket bolts are an even better fit than the 4Runner bolts? Because I didn't notice much difference between the 4runner bolt (which has a longer shoulder) and the original Tacoma bolt, in terms of how loose they fit in the bushing.

 

Alright, I'm installing some 6112s in a few months and I want to do this when put the new stuff in.

It looks like we are ordering JUST the 4Runner bolt 90105-14104 now? Not the fancy bolt,nut,washer from belmetric?

Is that correct?

 

I sell aftermarket bolts that are shanked to support the bushings better than the OEM that necks down.

https://www.303shockservices.com/product-page/toyota-lower-shock-bolt-set

use TW10 for 10% off.

 

I’ve been following this thread and have a clunk going over speed bumps too fast, maybe it’s these, maybe it’s my coil overs,maybe something else but at 15$ not a bad thing to change.

Is the torque the same?

 

You can take these up to 100ft lbs if you wanted but stock is 84 ft lbs.

 

Thanks. I'm gonna order me some.

 

Thanks just ordered a set.

 

I would suggest the AM bolt as was done by the original member who shared this trick.

The step in the shoulder/shank of the oem bolt doesn’t support the sleeved bushing fully, thus eventually failing with an annoying click sound. The AM bolt supports the bushing nearly the entire length of the pocket.

 

I guess my question is, are the aftermarket bolts better than the 4Runner bolts (pictured on the right), which also don't have a stepped shoulder? I was unimpressed with the fit of the 4Runner bolts.

 

Oem vs belmetric

I haven’t taken a drive yet but I turned the steering wheel back and forth lock to lock a few times and my clicks seem to have left.

 

read a post by a page on instagram @rmengineering, and he was saying that he noticed sets of foxs shocks that he rebuilt with not enough oil in them. when he was rebuilding a set of the 2.0 without reservoirs, he added the same amount of oil back that he removed. they took the truck for a test ride and the shocks were making a clunking noise at full compression. I think he said he looked up how much oil was supposed to be in there, and the amount he took out and added back was less then there was supposed to be, and when he added the correct amount there was no clunk. he suspected there may be a lot of brand that have some shocks sent out without the correct amount of oil in them. wondering if this could be the issue some are having, and why not all are having the same issue?

 

Makes no difference as long as the bolt has a full shank vs the stock stepdown, its just a bolt dont over complicate it. I replaced mine for piece of mind in theory is could but in all honesty i do not think replacing this bolt does anything. The bolt tightens the to the sleeve and should not allow any movement. Whoever found this out could be a snake oil salesmen, only difference i could see it making is on spherical bearing shocks, but hey it got me to swap em.

 

Since I'm in the left-turn-click club, might as well give it a shot. Went the Belmetric route.

 

Finally did mine. My bolts don’t look that bad but short drive today no clicks. I also had vibration at low speeds normally when slowing down and changing the bolts seemed to have gotten rid of it. Hopefully this was the fix for everything.

It’s a cheap and quick fix so anyone with noise Id just try and do it.

Took my longer to get my tools together than the actual work.

 

Replaced mine with the belmetric hardware and new OEM lower bushings and there is longer any clicking, but now I have a squeaking noise from the front left strut when I come to a stop and the suspension moves from compressed to resting. When I installed the left strut, it was slightly misaligned in relation to the lower control arm bolt holes to where I had to tap the bolt in. Is this common to create squeaks if not perfectly aligned? Also wondering if it's coming from the top hat? Any help/suggestions is appreciated!

 

I had that annoying click, first with original shocks, then with 6112 bilstein's click remained, recently I installed a set of 2.5 Icon's, click went away, same bolts on lower arm... So its got to be something either with top cap or lower bushings on bilsteins...