The Lair

x2

 

I think my driver wheel bearing is fucked.

 

You sure it's not just your injured Tilapia and that makes it feel bad? Just sayin'

 

How long have you had yours James?

 

Randall, didnt you just replace your wheel bearings? Did you order the whole new assembly or did you get the bearings pressed?

 

not that you asked me but im bored at work. Anyone try @05Taco4x4 hub assemblies yet? Price seems decent I think I paid 180 for one and waited months from that Alabama guy that got caught up in the sex offender fiasco.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/wheel-bearings-hubs-press-service-4x4-prerunner-nsk.537080/

This is the guy that's doing hubs now. seems legit but I have not ordered from him yet.

 

Yea talked to him earlier, he cant ship in time so I'm going with an Amazon special as a bandaid.

 

Whoops, been neglecting the lair. Yes I’ve used his bearing assemblies, both of mine are from him. Great quality and good guy

 

Meanwhile, at Mobtown HQ



@Mobtown Offroad @jowybyo @EatSleepTacos

Edit: The last one is the likeliest of scenarios

 

I've had my COOPER DISCOVERER S/T MAXX tires since March of of 2018. I have about 25,000 miles on them and I'm very happy with them.
I like them SO MUCH that every time I go somewhere with my truck I take them with me.
LT255/80-17 COOPER DISCOVERER S/T MAXX 80R R17 TIRE LR E - 33.08" diameter - no cutting required, just an alignment to adjust the caster.

 

Miguel! You've outdone yourself!!!!! This is the funniest shit I've ever seen!!!!!!!!!

 

I'm going to use this at the next mandatory safety brief training for sure.

 

We do this is the shop daily but use the fork truck to get an even better reach. One day I’ll buy a taller ladder.

 

Thanks James! Exactly what I wanted to hear!

 

Ok, Let's really get into this. Calling all experts. And everyone else. Sure, any dumb ass can ask what's the biggest size tire can I fit in there but only an OCD Dumb Ass goes to these lengths......................

I am leaning more towards a skinnier tire for this winter/off-road set for the practical reasons. Everything I have heard on here and on the interwebs in general has been positive. There's not much negative to be said about them. Other than weight but more is more no matter what. Unless there is a way to make a different rubber stronger, like adding kevlar or something.

Although, based on what @pdenajim said Cooper must have changed something in their sizes. (see below in red, green is a secondary size choice)




Then I did the math for a 255/80r17...............

255 / 25.4 = 10.0394"
8.03152" x 2 = 16.06304"
16.06304" + 17" = 33.06304"

I also like to use this tool to help me really visualize the differences. (note: 265/70R17 is my current size)




If the new Cooper sizes are correct, only 1.5" taller than I am running now.

However the 285/75r17 Cooper ST Maxx starts to push the boundaries and would be an increase in height of 2.46".

I'd much rather have a tire closer to 34" tall than 33" tall, but I know some things are gonna have to change. CMC, Pinch Weld, and most definitely either 650# (maybe 700#) coils. I also know this will require other mods like the OV tune.

Also, no matter what I get I am buying 5 of them, and mounting one on my spare too. That will have to stay in the bed I suppose after this. Until I can afford a bumper like Jerry @montauk17 aka @UntamedTaco has.

My second choice is to go with what I am running now, the Nitto Ridge Grappler. This size is also closer to 34" but just under (If this is even accurate). I'd like to point out that after 30k miles of seriously spirited driving this tire has been smooth as ice, extremely quiet and has not let me down in any road condition, winter or summer.

LT285/75R17 E 121/118Q 217200 T.D. 16.4/32s O.D. 33.86 Sect. 11.26 7.5-(8.0)-9.5 3195/2910 @ 80 psi 64.40 lbs.




2.2" taller (again, if the measurements are correct)

The price is lower than the Cooper but not enough to matter.

My third choice is the Goodyear Duratrac. I have run this tire on my last two vehicles. On the Tundra it was great, and on the 4Runnter it was great. However, on the 4Runner I think I got a bad set because at 30k miles they started to wear very weird and got loud AF and traction had diminished to the point I couldn't trust them. I think it was a fluke. These have a couple more sipes than any other Hybrid All/Terrain tire on the market.

LT295/70R17 E 121/118Q 312053142 T.D.18/32's O.D. 33.5 Sect. 11.6 7.5-(8.0)-9.5 3195/2910 @ 80 psi 60 lbs.




1.7" Taller

Here's what all three of these tires look like face to face.




Surprisingly, The Goodyear looks like the lug spacing is wider than the other two. This to me is a pro and a con. Since I am going for more snow (1st) and off road (2nd) traction that road noise, wear, and smoothness compromise might be worth it.

Section Width and Rim Width are very important to me too. I want to be able to air down. I read it's not cool to have undersized wheel widths and do this. You can pop a bead and that would suck on the trail. The steel wheels I bought are only 7.5" wide, if they are true FJ Cruiser steelies. Regardless, the spare wheel on the 3rd Gen Tacoma is only 7". I may try to trade it with the tire for another wheel to match what I have so I can rotate all 5 instead of 4.

Backspacing is the same on the steel wheels compared to what I am running now with the Ray 10s. However the offset is considerably different.

The Ray 10's are 8.5" wide, 4.3" BS and -10mm Offset. The Steelies from what I can gather are 7.5" wide, 4.5" BS and +15mm Offset. If my learning has gone well, then negative offset pulls the wheel and tire closer to the truck and positive offset pushes it away.

I think I have this figured out.

Using this diagram:




I created my own comparing the two wheels with the data I have.




In my diagram, the red centerline is being used to move the two different wheels each way based on the negative and positive offset. The dashed blue and yellow lines in the center indicate where the inside and outside of the wheel would sit when mounted. Since the wheel widths are different and the offset is - and + this pushes the steel wheel farthing to the inside. Not good. The dashed lines marked 1.5" at the bottom indicate the correction using 1.5" wheel spacers which if I am correct with all of this will absolutely be needed. Please, anyone correct me if I am wrong. Don't hold back. I hope I am. I would much rather have the wheels sticking out and not need spacers but looking at the design of the wheels I know I wont be so lucky.

Anyway, I still need lug nuts and that will be next. I plan on just using whatever the strongest cheapest versions I can find, even if they are open. Since my Gorilla Nuts are starting to rust up I may just use the wire wheel on the gringer and clean them up and paint them and buy new next spring when I put the Rays back on.

And that's how an Enginerd does it. Thank you for helping me pick the perfect tire for me and my truck.

 

Holy long ass post Batman!

Are you talking solely a winter tire? Or both one for the winter and off road.

 

My only question is why would you need heavier coils to run a new tire size??

 

Thanks Randall.

Both. I use the truck any time it snows or basically when there is snow on the ground to commute to work. The only time I drive the car during the winter is if the roads are dry. You've been to my house so you know what I have to deal with, especially my driveways.

I would also like to be able to do moderate wheeling effectively with them. Obviously I will not be rock crawling with you lunatics until I get more armor but I need something that can handle anything I want to throw at them until then. Since I don't have traction control I will need as much traction as a tire will offer.

I bought the steel wheels so I don't fuck up my Rays. When the tires on them wear out, I will replace them with a more on road friendly tire. But still larger.