The Lair

This is why it’s so important to do constant inspections after doing work on the truck. I got back from a test drive and noticed my brakes leaking at this fitting. I was able to tighten it a little more and I’ll make sure to keep an eye on it.

 

Paint, yes.

Drill with wire wheel to clean them up, different story.

 

Sure man. Let me check my inventory when I get home and I'll PM you.

 

The effort to cut them off, clean them up and weld them back on isn't worth it in the slightest. If it were me I would just clean them up the best I can, use some rusty metal primer and then paint them.

 

I remember doing that pulley on my first gen and it took myself AND my dad yanking on a rented torque wrench with a long friggin pipe to finally get it to click.

 

I was thinking that I'll just use my toothbrush

 

POR-15 is your friend.

 

I'm more than likely gonna weld mine on (when I finally finish them....)
It'll strengthen the center portion of the frame, then I'll box the rear and reinforce/replace the crossmembers. Of course when I do all rest of the strengthening I'll probably pull the bed and cab and work over the whole frame with rust preventative.

 

It sounds to me like you two are saying that when you welded every seam of your sliders to your frame you had a magical machine to vacuum a anti-rust preventive into the space between them and the frame to make it a 100% completely airtight space? Or are you both saying that once the frame does start to rust in those spaces it won't matter because you have the added steel welded to them? Or are you saying that my bolt on sliders from @Mobtown Offroad are shit? (lose, lose, lose situation)

That is my toothbrush.

This guy gets it!

 

I have no qualms about bolt ons for my use. HOWEVER, as others have said, rust belt changes things. I'd go weld on if I were you then hit real good with steel-it/por15/etc.

 

When you weld all 4 sides of the slider legs to the frame, it does in fact seal it off. It's not going to hold off rust forever, but plenty long enough.

 

I thought they were only welded at various strategic points, not the entire seam(s).

Then my original (serious) answer stands. If you can't weld, like me, you don't have any other choice. Also, I like how you tactfully skirted that answer..........your restraint is impressive young Bedouin.

 

For weld on's, the part that contacts the frame is pretty small. Only four points about 4" square so it's easy to fully weld it and seal it off.

 

Wait, what?! Sliders right? Or did I miss the question?

 

I thought you lived in the Rust Buckle!?

 

Weld on vs bolt on has significantly different mounting points.

 

This is why you get paid the big bucks by idiots like me. Not sure why I assumed the only difference was the holes through which the bolts went.

 

I'm always happy to teach you something Rob. This is also why weld on sliders are a bit cheaper. Less material and don't need CNC cut mounting plates.

 

Or all the grade 8 hardware, etc. Really love the bolt on anodes on my @Mobtown Offroad bolt-ons. Really thoughtful touch and should abate some corrosion/rust