The Lair

That's exactly how my bed set up is going to look with the exception of being on the decked platform. Appreciate the picture for mounting purposes.

 

Went ahead and bought the camburg inner clevis adapter. I decided I'll just run heimed tie rods right from the get go. That way I can sell off my OEM rack as one complete unit. Even though it's used, it's not leaking and works fine. OEM racks go for like $900 now, so I think I can swing $200 out of it. Maybe.

Anyways, once I get the tundra rack mounted, I'll measure and order the tie rods from Kartek.

 

Looking at doing the same, so did you order the camburg inner clevis adapter for a tundra? It is a different size than the ones for the tacoma rack correct?

 

The modified tundra rack that I have coming is tapped for a tacoma tie rod. So I bought the kit for the 05+ tacoma

 

Aha, since I am ordering from solo I assume same for me then, thanks for clarification!

 

Yes

 

Yep! The racks are designed to use the tacoma tie rod to get the geometry as close as they can to stock. But that’s why I’m upgrading them, because now it’s the obvious weak point.

 

So we have aurora or FK rod ends from JD? The thread doesn't show a clear answer..

 

The whole system is pretty anemic even with the tundra rack. Pump and a hydro ram assist would make it even better but still feel like it's weak.

 

I've got fk Randy and others have aurora. Look up the PN on the rod end FK is marked FK on them also not just the part #

 

Awesome thanks!

That HOWE pump system ran with the tundra rack might help?

Im close to saying fuck it and just go full hydro...

 

Yeah what skip said. Just depends I guess. I have aurora and turns out those are twice as expensive as FK, so that’s cool. Kartek uses a specific tap depending on which brand so I’m going to ask if they can tap one side for aurora and one side for FK so I can save $90 on heims.

edit: or tap both sides for FK and just swap out my aurora one for an FK. That way in the future they’re cheaper to replace.

 

They may actually be turning the threads on a lathe and not using a tap they can get more consistency and accuracy of threads that way

 

They specify tap. It’s interesting it makes that much of a difference.

 

Yes I'm getting a pump that way there's more pressure and volume to the rack which will help. The biggest issue is the deflection of the housings and shafts during hits causing seals and stuff to break. So doing something like the slide rack or an assist to take some of the stress off the rack will help. Full hydro is dope but I wouldn't do it on the street loose the belt, pump, line, engine stalls you're not steering the truck.

 

Ah cool. Yeah it does. Go take a continuing education night class in machining at your local CC if they're good they'll do a project that you make threads on and go over all the tolerances of threads and stuff. Aurora probably just holds a tighter tolerance QC than some of the others. Now FK last I looked has several different tiers of their joints so depends on what kind of crazy you want to do for expense

 

So tundra rack, double heimed, HOWE pump, AND slide rack?

 

Slide rack won't work with tundra rack at all. But you could make one that would lol. The problem is Still getting the power to be able to turn the wheel when you're wheeling. Maybe the quickener

 

Is that like a wire stretcher?

 

It’s similar to this.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08SR6FJQG