The Lair

Yeah I went to pin the thermostat and it was pretty gunked up with that infamous @3pooches mud. I've been running it pinned for two weeks, including a rather hefty haul to the dump, and the second run was more normal trailer load. Haven't passed 189 in the pan, and 192 in the TC.

I know it's not 93 on the mercury these days, but figured I'd pull the pin, give it a real good scrub and rinse and see what's up.
I did hit something near 228 at TC at one point on FPK the weekend before pinning the 'stat...it was a very brief spike that quickly dropped back to 195-205 which was normal that cool day up on the mountain.

 

Order of importance should be #1 downshift until you lock the torque converter.

Never just drain the AT fluid from the pan. Disconnect the line coming out of the AT cooler and run the engine for a few seconds to pump fluid out then refill. Repeat until the fluid looks new.

I will be stealing the idea to insulate the lines next to the CAT. I used a similar product on my AC lines and it worked rather well. I like the air duct idea but you know that would be a mud scoop for most of us.

My experience is from overheating during beach driving or heavy inclines on 35s. Both of which you want the torque converter locked as much as possible.

My truck currently has 3 trans coolers aftermarket radiator and a oil cooler. I somehow found the only TRD off-road without a towing package.

Anyway I'm not going to go into the guys thread and disagree with him but just wanted to share. If your overheating on flat ground without a load then you have bigger problems.

 

What is the best transmission running temperature and why is it 200F??

 

FTFY

 

There is a really good thread on here about ATs. I think the guy that posted it was gearhead or gear cruncher or something like that. I generally downshift until the temps come down to around 180f. All of my beach driving is done in 2nd gear and I'm in 2nd a lot when in the mountains on steep roads. Your transmission is generally happiest when rpms are over 3k when you are under a heavy load.

 

I was just being a keyboard warrior jerk.

I also have taken notice of yours, Randy's and others advice on getting the TC to lock up, or in dead stop traffic throwing in N and revving up and holding at 2500rpm

 

If only Tacomas had launch control

 

That body gap be like:

 

2 foot launch; old school.

 

That's what I was going for ultimately. I didn't realize my paint was color-changing until I bought it and stepped out into the sun.

 

I wanted to put those on my super white...

 

$$$$

 

they got the new 'stealth knurling' which is supposed to help grip the tire in aired down situations.

 

I wanted BR6s in blue, but they are never in stock and expensive. So I opted for a cheap wheel that I can get PC'd blue later. Vors VE37s.

 

Uh, yeah. Definitely that.

Plus, I sold my '18 and bought an '02 instead.

 

I wanted Ray10's in blue.

 

So looks like I’ve got a new job lined up, which means I don’t have to move and can start working on more truck projects.

Next up welding.

Randy. What welding machine and plasma torch do you have? And tell me about your welding table? When I look up welding tables I see mostly the fab tables with holes for clamps and stuff. They seem pricey. Thx.

 

Migmax 215 and titanium plasma cutter, both from harbor freight. I love the welder. Plasma cutter, it’s nice. The only thing I don’t like is I can’t find drag tips for it.

My table, I took some 1/4” plate and welded the frame/legs to it which are 2” square tube, 1/8” wall thickness. Total cost of that was about $300. Would probably be more now with steel prices jumping up.

 

Here’s some pics. The casters are a nice touch. I also added gussets at each leg, can kinda see them in the second pic.