The LED SAE J583 Fog Pod & Fog Light Review

There’s a. Adjustment knob that’s independent of the single mounting screw. Allows for vertical adjustment only, not horizontal.

 

@crashnburn80 so I should perform my install about 20-25’ away from a wall to achieve the most accurate adjustments correct?

 

Generally speaking that is correct. If you haven’t already installed them, do one at a time, adjust to match the OEM cutoff then install the other and adjust to match. Much easier than having to figure out the adjustment from scratch.

 

Could you please also publish the thermal and optical losses in steady state, for the white and amber models?

 

@crashnburn80 Hey I’ve got an off-topic question. Can I wire some 6” KC halogen lights at 100w into my oem fog light circuit on my 2nd Gen? I don’t intend on using them as fog lights, but because of my aftermarket bumper I’m not running any auxiliary lighting at all. Is the oem circuit able to handle 100w halogen lights, or would I have to beef up some components such as wiring or the relay? It would save me a bit of trouble if I could just utilize the fog circuit. Or should I just wire the KC lights independently?

Edit: Each light has 8.3 amp draw according to KC Lights website. I guess I need to figure out how many amps the stock circuit is rated for?

 

Got some Daylighters or Pro Sports? I’ve been looking at those. In short though, I would not recommend what you propose, the 100w per side is going to be too much for the OEM circuit. I don’t recall if the fogs are fused independently like the headlights, but the voltage drop would be pretty bad leading to poor performance even if the fuse would hold.

What I would do instead, is connect the power switch lead from the KC harness to an H10 plug, plug it into your OEM fog circuit, then connect the harness to the battery like you would otherwise. That will utilize your OEM switch and fog circuit to activate the KC relay to turn on the lights. If you were running The LED version of the Pro Sport or LED Daylighter your idea would work as they have much less current draw. Although looking for maximum output the halogens perform better according to KC and their specs.

 

Darn. I am considering this because I don’t have the harness. I am getting them used.

 

I’m sure KC sells replacement harnesses, and there’s plenty pre-made harnesses on Amazon, at Rallylights, etc. I can’t speak to quality as it hasn’t arrived yet but I purchased a MICtuning 12ga harness for dual lights for $18 on Amazon. You’ll likely need to make some modifications but it’s a good place to start.

MICTUNING HD+ 12 Gauge 600W LED Light Bar Wiring Harness Kit w/ 60Amp Relay, 3 Free Fuse, Rocker Switch Blue(2 Lead)

$19 MICTUNING HD+ 12 Gauge LED Light Bar Wiring Harness Kit with 60Amp Relay, 3 Free Fuse, Rocker Switch Blue(2 Lead)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WVWH5W4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vvjbCbE21DHG0

 

Your 05 fogs are 42w, so going to 100w is pretty extreme. You can always build a harness or buy a generic one and adapt it to work. KC may be able to sell just the harness as well. @Taylor@KC HiLiTES may be able to hook you up with what you need.

 

I think I will find a generic harness, I need it quick. I am not “electrically inclined” as you can see.

But what you suggest is using the harness: leads go to power, to ground, to the light fixtures as normal from the relay. But instead of sending 2 leads to an included switch, just wire them to the - and + of the oem fog light plug. That will make my fog light button activate the KC relay? But this is safer because power is running through the heavy duty harness. The only place the oem circuit is used is to trigger the relay, turning the lights on. And that is safe?

 

Correct.

There will be 2 activation leads (+-) to the relay to activate it, which should go to the switch. It is the activation leads from the relay that you want to adapt to the H10 plug and plug into the OEM fog circuit. When you click the fog light button in the cab, fog circuit is powered and flips the relay. It is safe, and the same way both my fogs and headlights are powered.

 

Thank you for the help friends!

 

We do sell the harness separately which is found here --> http://www.kchilites.com/accessories/wiring/relay-wiring-harness-kc-6315.html


On the wiring note, I think I am following along with @crashnburn80 . My understanding is that on the diagram below, the green activation lead (normally goes to switch) would just be modified to connect into the stock fog circuit. You'd also have to include the black as well, right? Clever way of going about that, I'd never considered that as a possibility. I am no electrical guru, but I know enough and I like that solution.

 

That is correct.

In the diagram cut off the black and green wire ends where they connect to a switch, purchase an H10 plug like this and wire the positive (green) to the red wire and negative (black) to black. Then plug it into the OEM foglight plug. The white wire is not used since the fog circuit already has power. Using the incab fog switch, powers the fog circuit, which flips the relay providing direct power to your lights with a dedicated circuit capable of handling the 200w power draw.

Clean and factory like on the inside, while wired correctly for high power under the hood.

 

KC Ambers came in a couple days ago and I put them in last night. Install was simple, took maybe half hour but 10 min of that was looking for my short Philips screwdriver. Initial impressions: wish there was a little bit more light but I do understand you can't expect that much intensity from the more limited color temp. Build quality of housings seems inline with the price though I will be watching to see how well the wiring harness/pigtail holds up, just jacketed wire with shrink tube on it, not sure that's going to last 23 years. I really dig how well the color matches up with the DRLs. Will need to find some time to aim them a little better, now sure exactly how high or low they are supposed to be, maybe one of you guys can chime in there? I really like how they look when the they are off, its subtle but they look better than stock, need to do the BHLM to match. We potentially have some snow coming this weekend so I may be able to test them in inclement weather, though I'm in NC so we never get what they predict. Overall I will be happy with them IF they hold up long term.

 

Little late now, but I find it easiest to replace one light at a time, then aim the new light to match the other remaining factory light. Then swap in the second light and aim to match the now adjusted one.

 

Ah, that would have been a good idea.

Looked it up and saw to aim the top of the cut off 4" below fog light height at 25', sound about right?

 

Got mine installed last night. I love how wide these project out and the cutoff is ideal. Now to patiently wait for my items to arrive for the ultimate headlight upgrade.

 

Crashburn forgive me if this has been covered. I was at Toyota on Monday and saw the new 2019 Tundra TRD Pro. It has a new style od Rigid Led Fog. See here. .

 

He and I were discussing that light a few weeks ago. He was going to ask his Rigid contact. Anything yet @crashnburn80 ?