The Morimoto XB Hybrid 12-15 LED headlight review

The LED projector is a sealed unit, not like changing a bulb. So that would be a significant undertaking where you might as well look an LED projector retrofit in the OEM units.

If you opened up the headlight you could apply a matte surface in front of the low beam projector. I’d think something texturized perpendicular to the beam output might help even more. Another problem though is the proximity of that surface to the low beam projector, it should ideally be further away like OEM units to help avoid this problem. That really isn’t fixable. What makes it worse is that 7000k is extremely reflective, if the output was a lower color temp it would mildly help but still be an issue. I don’t think many would want to open their new headlights though.

 

another great review, well done

and that is a damn good looking headlight, maybe this thread can be forwarded to them so they can make sure the functionality matches the look

 

Compare. Morimotos


4runner OEM LED


The Morimotos mirror finish in close proximity to the projector creates a very high intensity reflection. The OEM LED 4Runner lights move the surface away from the projector and use a matte fine speckle coating to diffuse reflection, so the surface is illuminated but not reflective.

 

Hopefully they update the glare issue. Thank you for the very detailed review!

 

There is no beating this headlight. It is SICK. The super minor glare issue is the only real negative, and to be honest, it’s not even worth mentioning.

 

Thank you for the review, OP.

For almost $900, I'd expect them to be flawless.

I'll skip these.

 

Well, depends on what you mean by beating. If you are looking for IG points it is subjective. But if looking for functionality, the high power halogen upgrade outperforms the Morimoto’s low beam, so yes they are beat in headlight performance for low beam. The headlight upgrade costs about $120 vs Morimotos $865. The Morimotos also have poor color temp at ~7000k. The build quality is unimpressive. And they botched the design with a glare inducing gloss finish that any OEM would have known to avoid. They could have been a lot better with more attention to detail and some simple design tweaks. Where they are not beat is their outstanding high beam.

 

I will have to agree somewhat. I will however have to add, that I had the high power halogen mod, and although it was bright, it was rather unimpressive. Just a brighter version of stock, a brighter version of a 6 year old looking light. And to say the build quality is unimpressive, I’d say that is subjective as well. In my humble opinion, the build quality of these lights is extremely impressive, much much better than every single other aftermarket design for this model Tacoma. Maybe not 100% “factory”, but 95% for sure. To say the design is “botched”, I’d have to disagree. I know you are the lighting guru around these parts, but I think you may be slightly biased to the high power halogen upgrade that you like to push. These lights are very, very nice. And have a “look” that clearly are an improvement over the stock design. But that’s just my opinion, for what it’s worth.

 

I'll easily agree the build quality is better than other aftermarket units for sure. Most aftermarket assemblies are complete garbage. But not having stops on the adjusters so you break your headlights if over adjusting and very large gaps around the projectors so wiring is visible inside the headlight, plus 7000k color temp likely means using low cost budget emitters. These sorts of shortcomings might be similar to other aftermarket assemblies, but are not on par with OEM. "Botched" might be harsh, but that was a screw up that should have been recognized and addressed in the design phase. You can't fault Morimoto for the oversight though, since they didn't design or manufacture them. Coplus designed and made the headlights. Those OEM T4R LED assemblies I pictured a couple posts up are 25%+ brighter than these Morimotos, 5000k color temp, have proper housing design to not have reflected glare, have correct uplight designed in the pattern, have no odd gaps around the projector and won't break if turning the headlight adjuster to far. That OEM LED product, is impressive and very, very nice.

The great thing about measured data is there is no bias, the data is what it is. These Morimoto LED assemblies come in at 1563 lux for low beam. Compare to the 2nd Gen output chart below.



It is fact that the Morimotos are outperformed by Osram's performance high power bulbs for low beam. But these halogen bulbs are all tested at 13.8v. If running a wiring harness as required for the high wattage ones, it boosts the voltage which increases the halogen output by ~10% over the numbers posted above. Then if running the voltage booster, it boosts output by about another ~15% on top of that. The combined mods place my former 2nd Gen headlights at 60+% higher than the Morimotos low beam output intensity. So based on the performance data, I'm not impressed.

Looks are certainly subjective. You obviously do some nice photography of your truck, so that likely is important to you to have something that looks unique. I focus on function, and for function there are better performing options. That said if set on LEDs as a must have, this would be the way to go as there are no other credible LED solutions on the market.

 

Just installed these. Pleased with them so far. Wish the programming was just identical to the OEM headlights (DRL on a switch) giving the function to completely turn off the headlights with the key in ignition. The extra wiring harness doesn't exactly solve the issue.

Is it me or do these headlights remind anyone of Bender from Futurama?? I still love them. Probably because Bender is rad.

 

Hey All,
I am currently looking to update the headlights on the 2013 I just purchased. I am on the fence with buying the newer XB's but am also considering a retrofitted set from a TW member, both about same price range. My driving will be mainly city / highways, no off road.

My question is about the aiming on XB's as I read your limited to 3 turns for vertical aiming. My truck is stock suspension/height. Do these come aimed properly for stock height trucks? For those who installed the XB's on their stock height truck, did you have to adjust and how did you know when to stop before passing the 3 turns?

thanks,

 

I've not heard any issues with not being able to aim. I wouldn't be too concerned about getting them dialed in. Just don't over adjust in the process. If looking at retros, I’d highly recommend an OEM HID projector, such as the RX350 units. Many aftermarket projectors units lack proper uplight and units like H1 halogen based projectors will force you to low quality Chinese halogen based HIDs rather than the real thing from high quality leading manufactures. Check out post #5506 for some HID comparison info:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ctor-headlights.589465/page-276#post-26704071

 

Thank you.

I recall reading in one of your reviews of either the Alpharex or XB where it was limited to 3 turns to adjust. Go figure, I can’t find the specific post now, but doesn’t matter since the XB’s don’t have the issue.

thanks again

 

It is the Morimoto XB headlights that have the poor adjustment mechanism with no stops. It is in the original post. Their other headlights have the same issue.

Morimoto XBs:

 

Nice review! I love mine, got the amber. Paired them with the Diode Dymanics SS3 fogs in yellow. Easy install for both.

 

Footrucker and Crashburn, I read in another post that in order to activate the DRL "C" bar on these new XB's you tap into/plug into the fuse box in the engine bay. Some TW members commented that doing this is risky because if fuse is not plugged in correctly it can cause the lights to fail, they can blow the entire fuse box system causing severe damage and leaving one stranded on the road. Also, even if plugged in correctly there's still a risk of failure.

I am in no way a technical/mechanic type person where I feel confident in running the line through the firewall to tap in to the ignition area so that I can turn the DRL's on/off. So my question is, does the above risk exists? Are the instructions clear with plugging in the fuse correctly to avoid damage?

 

I’ve been digging for my paperwork and can’t find it, but the lead wire from the kit has a fuse built into already so you just remove the fuse that’s in place and plug in the modified kit wire in its place. The DRLs are on as long as the ignition is on, the dim slightly once you go into parking light or headlight mode. You cannot turn them on and off unless you install a switch. One thing I don’t like about the kit is that activating a blinker should shut the corresponding side DRL down temporarily so the blinker is not lost in the DRL bright output. My amber kit accentuates the issue im afraid. But I love the precise beam cutoff, the quality of the kit build and the fact I got rid of those horrid stock housings.

 

Thanks footrucker. Did you plug the fuse in to the fuse box in the engine bay or inside the cab by driver footwell?

 

I brought it inside the cab and landed it.

 

I have this same issue too.

Another issue I am having is that the "C" bar will often turn on 15-20 min after I have shut the truck off and locked it. It will turn on and off for approx. 2-3 min sometimes more than once. (Mean mugging the neighbors in my absense) I wonder if this is due to the higher voltage on the battery after running and/or the fuse socket I plugged into under the hood (as per instruction video on their website). That part seemed slightly sketch.

I noticed a pretty large cut-off step (lower on driver side) once installed, which I have not adjusted yet.

For what its worth, I think these lights are badass and unique and look like Bender from Futurama. I am sure everything originates from China these days so get what you like. Issues coincide with every mod you make.