The Official Unofficial Super Pacific X1 Camper Thread

nudavinci64 · May 4, 2021

RangeRick said: ↑

Back home after installation and camping down the west coast. Thought I'd post my first impressions.

THE GOOD

First and foremost, the SP staff were just great. They welcomed me and allowed me to film the whole installation process for my potential overloading vlog (we'll see) and they took plenty of time to talk me through all the details. Really nice experience.

Camper is very well made, many more design features and add-ons that indicate SP's deep-dive design. This isn't just a GFC or wedge camper clone, it's definitely it's own unique design. It does have the common features of the wedge tent and the modular floor, but there are plenty of other features such as the wiring channels, prolific lash points, T-nut channels, and especially the tent design (more on that below) that make the SP stand on its own.

The tent is just great. As with the body, not just another wedge tent, a very unique SP design. The material is great, the upper venting systems are a brilliant innovation, and construction is very solid. I do have a couple of complaints below, but the tent still gets an A+.

The full length doors provide so much access I can't imagine living with the smaller "windoors" on other wedge campers.

Last but not least, the ExPed mattress is perfect. I was concerned that it would be too thin and bottom out, as I'm pretty heavy. but apparently their vertical core foam design prevents that. I have a similar Sea-to-Summit 4 inch mattress, and the ExPed is better.

THE NOT SO GOOD

My biggest complaint is with the doors. I understand what they were after, but I think there were some design decisions that created problems that led to other design decisions that created other problems, etc. I'll explain.

First of all, the latches. I had to drive back to SP the next day to get the latches adjusted, and they still didn't work very well. SP's design decision was to have a door that could be opened with one hand. Great design decision. So, coming from an airplane design background, they added the single large opening handle and routed some cable to each side latch. Problem is, the handle has a very hard pull (for me anyway) so I have to press one hand against the door while pulling the handle with the other. So much for one-handed operation. Also, one side often unlatches before the other, tweaking the door and making the still-latched latch stick. So I have to press one hand against the door, use the other hand to pull the handle all the way to make sure both latches unlatch, and then let the door open. As I said, so much for one-handed operation. Good idea. Doesn't work well.

Second door complaint: the "gunnel." They told me they had originally tried piano hinges like the GFC, but they leaked and caused other issues, so they designed their own hinges. Nice solution. But this solution left a gap at the top that let rain in. So they created another solution, the "gunnel" that sticks out from the body and acts as a kind of rain gutter under the door hinges. Once again, a nice solution, and I may be the only one who has a problem like this, but I continually whacked my head on this protruding gunnel. I think it's because my eye sees the wall of the body and unconsciously assumes that's where the edge of the metal is. My brain doesn't expect a 2 inch blade of metal to be sticking straight out, and the edge is at a 90 degree angle to the body, so it kind of disappears into the background if that makes sense. I had to learn the hard way to stick my head inside very carefully, and I'm planning on getting something like a vinyl car door edge guard to soften the edge in case I forget. Again.

Third door complaint: the interior design. I suspect that, coming from airline design experience, the basic idea about a door is "smooth on the outside and utilitarian on the inside." Once again, a useful design decision, but the result is a latch mechanism that hangs down several inches, and lash points that also hang down and are pretty sharp-edged. I hit my head really hard on the latches twice at night, and bumped it more than a few times on the lash points. Could be that I'm simply losing my spacial awareness as I get older, but frankly I would be completely happy with a two-latch-handle door and a lower interior door profile.

Other issues are minor:

I was in some heavy rain, and I had a little leakage in the tent. Nothing serious. but not completely dry. I believe it was from the tent corners, where it looks like a difficult 90 degree turn for the Keder rail and the folded and sewn tent material. I can live with it, but it's there. Considering how heavy the rain was, the leakage was very minor. Wet edges on the bottom of the mattress. No pools or puddles, and no real evidence of leakage traveling down below into my gear.

As others have mentioned, the back tent door does not have a bottom zipper. Peter explained that to have a bottom zipper would require threading the zipper as you do on a jacket, which they felt would be problematic. So they have a tie instead, which does hold the flap snug but which also allows more air in than a zipper would. I was in a heavy wind on a cold night and I could really feel the cold air coming in. I could have put a rolled towel or something in there and stemmed the flow, and I could add a velcro closure of my own, so it's not a big deal. Just another design decision that had consequences.

I hope no one takes this review as too negative. I'm really very happy with it overall, and these are actually minor complaints compared to the greatness of the overall product. I don't regret my purchase at all, and I wouldn't trade it for a wobbly GFC or an overpriced AT Summit. It's exactly what I wanted with a few little quirks.
Click to expand...

I’m with you on the door. My driver side won’t open. I know where to adjust but can’t seem to get it to turn since it’s not fixed if anyone has any suggestions.

I drilled a few homes in the X1 over the weekend. I added 1/2” nylon spacers on the bottom which allows me to open it still. (Will require stronger struts though) also I should have mounted it 1/4” high it’s just anoint to not be able to insert key but it’s easy to open and lock if needed.

Also giving the rhino rack a 3rd go. It’s been mounted now a 3rd tine and broken every time I’ve used it. It’s solid work 2 mounts but I did ask for a 3rd as they are not as beefy as the Prinsu ones I had before.

got some cool work on my air setup coming next.

Coop68 · May 4, 2021

Well first day with the X-1 super stoked love it. Haven’t had much time to play with it. But the SP team is awesome very impressed. Covered a-lot about the tent and install went pretty smooth. I have ideas and plans going forward for fine tuning the tent for my needs.

love the Green,

tacowiz · May 4, 2021

The green is growing on me lol

gnardoggie · May 5, 2021

I’ve had very minimal dust intrusion. Tailgate sealing is key along with the butyl tape trick to plug any small holes.

I can’t recall anyone posting saying it’s super dusty but I could be wrong.

I guess the reality is that no truck bed is a totally sealed unit. You’ve got bed cubbies, holes in the floor, tailgate cracks, etc that all can cause dust - I think the camper is lower on the list of ingress points from my experience.

ETAV8R · May 5, 2021

Having a bedrug also helps with dust intrusion.

Synergy001 · May 5, 2021

ETAV8R said: ↑

Having a bedrug also helps with dust intrusion.
Click to expand...

This! Or at least I like to think it does since I can’t see the dust on mine lol!

ScenicCityOverland · May 5, 2021

RangeRick said: ↑

Back home after installation and camping down the west coast. Thought I'd post my first impressions.

THE GOOD

First and foremost, the SP staff were just great. They welcomed me and allowed me to film the whole installation process for my potential overloading vlog (we'll see) and they took plenty of time to talk me through all the details. Really nice experience.

Camper is very well made, many more design features and add-ons that indicate SP's deep-dive design. This isn't just a GFC or wedge camper clone, it's definitely it's own unique design. It does have the common features of the wedge tent and the modular floor, but there are plenty of other features such as the wiring channels, prolific lash points, T-nut channels, and especially the tent design (more on that below) that make the SP stand on its own.

The tent is just great. As with the body, not just another wedge tent, a very unique SP design. The material is great, the upper venting systems are a brilliant innovation, and construction is very solid. I do have a couple of complaints below, but the tent still gets an A+.

The full length doors provide so much access I can't imagine living with the smaller "windoors" on other wedge campers.

Last but not least, the ExPed mattress is perfect. I was concerned that it would be too thin and bottom out, as I'm pretty heavy. but apparently their vertical core foam design prevents that. I have a similar Sea-to-Summit 4 inch mattress, and the ExPed is better.

THE NOT SO GOOD

My biggest complaint is with the doors. I understand what they were after, but I think there were some design decisions that created problems that led to other design decisions that created other problems, etc. I'll explain.

First of all, the latches. I had to drive back to SP the next day to get the latches adjusted, and they still didn't work very well. SP's design decision was to have a door that could be opened with one hand. Great design decision. So, coming from an airplane design background, they added the single large opening handle and routed some cable to each side latch. Problem is, the handle has a very hard pull (for me anyway) so I have to press one hand against the door while pulling the handle with the other. So much for one-handed operation. Also, one side often unlatches before the other, tweaking the door and making the still-latched latch stick. So I have to press one hand against the door, use the other hand to pull the handle all the way to make sure both latches unlatch, and then let the door open. As I said, so much for one-handed operation. Good idea. Doesn't work well.

Second door complaint: the "gunnel." They told me they had originally tried piano hinges like the GFC, but they leaked and caused other issues, so they designed their own hinges. Nice solution. But this solution left a gap at the top that let rain in. So they created another solution, the "gunnel" that sticks out from the body and acts as a kind of rain gutter under the door hinges. Once again, a nice solution, and I may be the only one who has a problem like this, but I continually whacked my head on this protruding gunnel. I think it's because my eye sees the wall of the body and unconsciously assumes that's where the edge of the metal is. My brain doesn't expect a 2 inch blade of metal to be sticking straight out, and the edge is at a 90 degree angle to the body, so it kind of disappears into the background if that makes sense. I had to learn the hard way to stick my head inside very carefully, and I'm planning on getting something like a vinyl car door edge guard to soften the edge in case I forget. Again.

Third door complaint: the interior design. I suspect that, coming from airline design experience, the basic idea about a door is "smooth on the outside and utilitarian on the inside." Once again, a useful design decision, but the result is a latch mechanism that hangs down several inches, and lash points that also hang down and are pretty sharp-edged. I hit my head really hard on the latches twice at night, and bumped it more than a few times on the lash points. Could be that I'm simply losing my spacial awareness as I get older, but frankly I would be completely happy with a two-latch-handle door and a lower interior door profile.

Other issues are minor:

I was in some heavy rain, and I had a little leakage in the tent. Nothing serious. but not completely dry. I believe it was from the tent corners, where it looks like a difficult 90 degree turn for the Keder rail and the folded and sewn tent material. I can live with it, but it's there. Considering how heavy the rain was, the leakage was very minor. Wet edges on the bottom of the mattress. No pools or puddles, and no real evidence of leakage traveling down below into my gear.

As others have mentioned, the back tent door does not have a bottom zipper. Peter explained that to have a bottom zipper would require threading the zipper as you do on a jacket, which they felt would be problematic. So they have a tie instead, which does hold the flap snug but which also allows more air in than a zipper would. I was in a heavy wind on a cold night and I could really feel the cold air coming in. I could have put a rolled towel or something in there and stemmed the flow, and I could add a velcro closure of my own, so it's not a big deal. Just another design decision that had consequences.

I hope no one takes this review as too negative. I'm really very happy with it overall, and these are actually minor complaints compared to the greatness of the overall product. I don't regret my purchase at all, and I wouldn't trade it for a wobbly GFC or an overpriced AT Summit. It's exactly what I wanted with a few little quirks.
Click to expand...

I love seeing all the different feedback! I will say coming from a GFC, the single latch on the doors is one of my favorite parts. I don't have to lock 6 different locks, and it's just one handle on each side! So much better IMO. That being said, I do agree it's a little hard to open one handed, and I did have to adjust one of my doors so that it would open correctly. I think with each iteration and feedback we all provide will only make for better campers all around.

nudavinci64 · May 5, 2021

gnardoggie said: ↑

I’ve had very minimal dust intrusion. Tailgate sealing is key along with the butyl tape trick to plug any small holes.

I can’t recall anyone posting saying it’s super dusty but I could be wrong.

I guess the reality is that no truck bed is a totally sealed unit. You’ve got bed cubbies, holes in the floor, tailgate cracks, etc that all can cause dust - I think the camper is lower on the list of ingress points from my experience.
Click to expand...

which butyl tape? that's a good idea.

XPOTRPR · May 5, 2021

I'm with you guys.. just little fixes here and there are fine. No biggie. Just wanted to make sure it was nothing crazy. And I know mine will be more dusty than others probably due to climate and geography but also the truck setup itself.

I'll definitely add the tailgate seal, then just fill gaps as best I can as I find them.. if it's really even an issue.

gnardoggie · May 5, 2021

nudavinci64 said: ↑

which butyl tape? that's a good idea.
Click to expand...

Stole the idea from Ro. Just this stuff:

$15 XFasten Butyl Sealing Tape, Gray, 1/8-In x 3/4-In x 30-Foot Plumbers Putty Tape, RV Sealant Tape, Butyl Rubber for Boat Sealing, EDPM Butyl Tape RV

https://www.amazon.com/XFasten-8-In...ywords=butyl+tape&qid=1620229564&sr=8-1-spons

Ball it up and jam it into any cracks, etc. I used it on the front corners of the bed where the camper meets. There's a natural hole there.

86Scotty · May 5, 2021

That's brilliant stuff. I've used it forever. I prefer black which is really easy to find.

gnardoggie · May 5, 2021

Yea, sorry I used black, that's just the first one that popped up on Amazon.

nudavinci64 · May 5, 2021

ah I will have to look seems not available for a few weeks. need it this week. ha.

86Scotty · May 5, 2021

nudavinci64 said: ↑

ah I will have to look seems not available for a few weeks. need it this week. ha.
Click to expand...

Are you close to an RV repair shop, Camping World, etc? They use this stuff for all kinds of stuff and have it behind the parts counter. Also, Ebay if Amazon doesn't have it. It isn't hard to find. McMaster Carr could probably have it on your doorstep tomorrow too.

nudavinci64 · May 5, 2021

86Scotty said: ↑

Are you close to an RV repair shop, Camping World, etc? They use this stuff for all kinds of stuff and have it behind the parts counter. Also, Ebay if Amazon doesn't have it. It isn't hard to find. McMaster Carr could probably have it on your doorstep tomorrow too.
Click to expand...

yah ill have to look. haven't looked too hard. too bad I JUST ordered from mcMaster. go figure.

gnardoggie · May 5, 2021

nudavinci64 said: ↑

ah I will have to look seems not available for a few weeks. need it this week. ha.
Click to expand...

You don't have prime? There are a bunch of different options on Amazon that can be there asap

JasonLee · May 5, 2021

ETAV8R said: ↑

Having a bedrug also helps with dust intrusion.
Click to expand...

yep, I haven’t sealed my cubbies or stuffed any butyl rope or anything anywhere and have no issues as long as when I’m at the car wash, I don’t point the water spray directly at the intersection of the top corners of the tailgate and rear door.

with a triple bulb seal on the bottom of the camper and metal bed rail caps, there shouldn’t be a need to stuff anything up front to prevent leaking.
Now with the plastic stock caps, there is a much larger gap up front.

frenchee · May 5, 2021

Posting this for any first gens wiring the running light / brake light to X1 or any camper shell for reference.

Mine driver tail light already had two vampire connectors (as I like to call them) so I tested them to determine what they were and added a third vampire connector (t splice).
The white black wire is ground to that bulb.
The red green is brake light.
The green is running light.

Looks messy but thats the nature of a first gen wiring at the brake light I guess. Not that clean from factory lol.
Took advantage of the existing clips that were in there from a PO.
Luckily it’s spliced into the tail light wiring which can be replaced and not the actual truck harness that connects to this.

Will show pic of the wiring inside once I grab grommets from my parents place.
I drilled a hole in the X1 and kinda debating whether it was absolutely necessary for this . Think I just wanted to do it to do it. The first hole lol

frenchee · May 5, 2021

nudavinci64 said: ↑

I’m with you on the door. My driver side won’t open. I know where to adjust but can’t seem to get it to turn since it’s not fixed if anyone has any suggestions.

I drilled a few homes in the X1 over the weekend. I added 1/2” nylon spacers on the bottom which allows me to open it still. (Will require stronger struts though) also I should have mounted it 1/4” high it’s just anoint to not be able to insert key but it’s easy to open and lock if needed.

Also giving the rhino rack a 3rd go. It’s been mounted now a 3rd tine and broken every time I’ve used it. It’s solid work 2 mounts but I did ask for a 3rd as they are not as beefy as the Prinsu ones I had before.

got some cool work on my air setup coming next.
Click to expand...

Show pic when door is open, broo. Wanna see

ScenicCityOverland · May 5, 2021

Just finished working on the newest mod for my camper. I got some of the bed base material from an undisclosed location for testing, then wrapped the edges in some PVC edge molding.
I wanted a 5 inch section so I could put it in place and scoot the mattress back 5 inches. This still leaves plenty of room for me to get up and down while allowing me to cross my feet when I sleep and my toes not hit the roof. I’ll be testing it out more this weekend but so far I think this is a good solution for me!

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