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The Official Unofficial Super Pacific X1 Camper Thread

Discussion in 'Tonneau Covers, Caps and Shells' started by Synergy001, Jun 28, 2020.

  1. Nov 13, 2021 at 6:39 PM
    #5181
    Taco-Surfer

    Taco-Surfer Well-Known Member

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    Icon Stage 3 suspense, method rims, KO2s, shell
    @XPOTRPR I definitely agree. when I was inside this morning I was looking at the gap and it seems that a piece of Al square stock would fit. Tomorrow I'm going to measure that gap and then hit ACE or HD to see if I can find something. I may have to hit up K&M Metals.... I agree that having something there is added protection of the shell shifting forward. I think with the 6 clamps and 4 Al flat iron pieces I don't see it moving much, but if one could stuff a piece of square stock up there, that's a bonus in my book. You don't need a long piece either. Progress!!!
     
    XPOTRPR likes this.
  2. Nov 13, 2021 at 6:54 PM
    #5182
    XPOTRPR

    XPOTRPR CNC Programmer/Machinist

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    > BUILD LINKS >
    57" is what you need! Was going to go with 3/4x3/4 OD and 1/8" wall. Mcmaster was out of what I was going to order when I was looking the other day. I havent checked Locally yet. I was waiting to hear back from them.. I've sent 3 emails with some screenshots and other info to get the idea across. I was worried I wouldnt be able to do anything after the fact, and was rushing to get it sorted before we head up next weekend, but it sounds like you may be able to mess with it afterwards from what you're saying?
     
  3. Nov 13, 2021 at 7:03 PM
    #5183
    Taco-Surfer

    Taco-Surfer Well-Known Member

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    Icon Stage 3 suspense, method rims, KO2s, shell
    I'll look tomorrow and try to figure it out for you as I have my shell on and that's a real world test. I'll keep the 3/4" square in mind. It may be a combination of square stock and flat.... I don't think we need to go the entire distance across the front, but it doesn't hurt; just need a good length (2-3") to act as a stop.
     
    XPOTRPR likes this.
  4. Nov 13, 2021 at 8:23 PM
    #5184
    Nevin

    Nevin Well-Known Member

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    OME 881 springs with 3/8 spacer. SCS SR8 16x8 Gunmetal 285/75/16 Yokohama G003 Nitros all 4 corners. Dakar rear leafs. Deckplate mod. Marlin Crawler 1200lb clutch. Redline hood struts. ECGS clam shell bearing. Philips LED headlights. Front Runner bed bars. Katskinz leather interior.
    Looking for build spot if anyone is trying to offload. :D
     
  5. Nov 14, 2021 at 5:46 AM
    #5185
    XPOTRPR

    XPOTRPR CNC Programmer/Machinist

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    > BUILD LINKS >
    I agree. That's why I want to try 3/4.. then shim it essentially to fill the rest. The other benefit of doing this imo.. and going full length especially.. is that helps seal that front section. Only areas would be the front corners where square tube and bedrails meet. Fill with butyl tape and I think it would be good. Solid and sealed.
     
  6. Nov 14, 2021 at 8:28 AM
    #5186
    gnardoggie

    gnardoggie Well-Known Member

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    This is exactly what I was thinking with my post earlier, but used on the cab end of the camper to try to keep it from shifting at all. Looks good!
     
    XPOTRPR likes this.
  7. Nov 14, 2021 at 9:41 AM
    #5187
    Taco-Surfer

    Taco-Surfer Well-Known Member

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    Icon Stage 3 suspense, method rims, KO2s, shell
    I measured out the front of the truck bed for "my" camper, so the dems may be different for others by a slight bit. There is an overhanging lip that is 5/8" wide from the front of the T-rail to the lip. This is the inner dem as best as I could get. This over hanging lip runs the length of the front of the camper, and is what the 3rd Gens have butted up against the front bed wall. From the bottom (underneath) of the overhanging lip to the bottom of the T-Rail is 2". An option to fix this is to use a piece of 1/2" square stock connected to a piece of 1/8" x 2" flat stock. Connect the flat stock to the T-rail with T-nuts. Here are some photos; looking straight ahead at the front bed wall and looking up underneath the T-Rail and overhanging lip. I've also added a couple of sketches using Excel.

    Bed Front and Camper Lip+T-Rail.jpg Looking Up under T-Rail and Camper Frame Lip.jpg


    Drawing of truck bed front wall.jpg Front Bed Support.jpg

    I think the drawing on the far right is like your idea.
     
    Coop68 and XPOTRPR like this.
  8. Nov 14, 2021 at 11:11 AM
    #5188
    XPOTRPR

    XPOTRPR CNC Programmer/Machinist

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    > BUILD LINKS >
    yesssss!!!! It sucks not having the X1 in hand to do all this.. but this is why all you fine people are awesome. TW community FTW.

    Thats what I was wondering.. what kind of space we have to play with and if that idea could be done. So yes.. that last pic (right one?) showing the 1/2 square stock and the 1/8" flat stock to connect to the T slot is pretty much what I was thinking. That.. or go down through the top of the T slot and possibly eliminate the need for the 1/8" flat stock.

    Does it seem possible to do that? If the bolts were recessed into the square stock. reason being.. I would prefer not to alter that slot and push it out.. even if it is just an 1/8".. I have my All Pro Molle panel and water tank up against that slot already and the mount utilizes the Slot and its position.
     
  9. Nov 14, 2021 at 11:13 AM
    #5189
    XPOTRPR

    XPOTRPR CNC Programmer/Machinist

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    > BUILD LINKS >
    what is this section? the bulb seal for the X1? That essentially is where the square stock would be, correct?

    upload_2021-11-14_12-12-41.jpg
     
  10. Nov 14, 2021 at 12:11 PM
    #5190
    XPOTRPR

    XPOTRPR CNC Programmer/Machinist

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    > BUILD LINKS >
    What about some Steel C channel (so the walls don't give and fold over). 1/2" tall by both 1 and 1-1/2" wide. Bolted down into the top of the T slot channel.

    Nevermind.. it would have that open top surface for the X1 to mate to. At Home Depot looking around. Think I might try some square tube. 1/2" x 1/2" you're thinking?
     
    nudavinci64 likes this.
  11. Nov 14, 2021 at 1:24 PM
    #5191
    nudavinci64

    nudavinci64 Robert @ Holy Horsepower

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    Boosted Money Pit....
    On mine they put a piece of starboard then bulb seal but doesn’t matter.

    I like idea of too and and front with the flat hair so all the weight isn’t on the bolts that would be on top.
     
  12. Nov 14, 2021 at 1:39 PM
    #5192
    Taco-Surfer

    Taco-Surfer Well-Known Member

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    Yes, that is the bulb seal. Per my drawing the 1/8" flat iron would extend up there with the square stock at the front butting up into the space from the over hanging lip. IE: The blue 1/2" square stock in the 2nd drawing would fit up underneath the yellow Overhanging Lip of Shell in the 1st drawing.

    At HD I got steel square stock and flat iron instead of aluminum and will get my son to weld it. I may also go get a piece of 1"x1" to put behind the flat iron to butt up against the bed. But I don't know if there is enough back there for it to butt up against.

    If I remember right, the bed in the front is lower than the sides by ~1/2". Is that correct? CRS is kicking in today.... I remember the two SP guys putting something there, Starboard I believe. I wasn't paying that much attention at the time talking with Peter.
     
  13. Nov 14, 2021 at 3:08 PM
    #5193
    XPOTRPR

    XPOTRPR CNC Programmer/Machinist

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    > BUILD LINKS >
    I see what you're trying to do...

    The bold is what I'm trying to fill/figure out.. kind of a two in one thing. It should really be like 1/2" x 2" square then for what I'm trying to do. I want to make a stop (basically what you're talking about, but mount it in the top of the T slot) and it will extend forward over the bed as well. This way it fills that gap where your bulb seal and starboard is (the front of the bed where it sits lower than the sides).. and also makes a hard stop for the X1 tab.. in theory anyways.
     
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  14. Nov 14, 2021 at 3:39 PM
    #5194
    Pagan220

    Pagan220 Well-Known Member

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    Anyone getting updates on their builds? Any delays? The last email I received said install should be around thanksgiving and the would send me an email four weeks out from install date. Obviously I’m not getting around the end of the month at this rate.
     
  15. Nov 14, 2021 at 4:02 PM
    #5195
    Mark77

    Mark77 Well-Known Member

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    Last email i got said there was some supply issues. I told them i was in no rush, and gave permission to them to take the month of December off.
     
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2021
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  16. Nov 14, 2021 at 4:53 PM
    #5196
    Taco-Surfer

    Taco-Surfer Well-Known Member

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    I agree with you. I'm unfortunately late on this. But, if you do what you have thought up, I think using my Dems can will work for you. The overhang extends out 5/8" from the T-rail. So whatever you can fit in there to make that meet up I think you're golden. I like your idea as you can seal the whole thing really well and have that hard stop.
     
  17. Nov 14, 2021 at 5:17 PM
    #5197
    lossgenius

    lossgenius Active Member

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    Work in Progress...
    Some got an email to select colors/options last week... there was a post in the facebook group... i am hoping to get my email soon
     
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  18. Nov 14, 2021 at 9:43 PM
    #5198
    Taco-Surfer

    Taco-Surfer Well-Known Member

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    My install email was 1 week before it was "officially" ready, and I had it installed the following week.
     
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  19. Nov 15, 2021 at 7:11 AM
    #5199
    XPOTRPR

    XPOTRPR CNC Programmer/Machinist

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    > BUILD LINKS >
    Right on. Ok, so trying to order materials for this project. I was going to order 3/4" x 2" wide bar stock, but you're saying the lip overhangs away from the t slot another 5/8".. so I either shift the 2" wide stock that way to compensate.. or go with wider than 2" stock.

    sorry, I know its a lot of back and forth and BS details..
     
  20. Nov 15, 2021 at 7:20 AM
    #5200
    XPOTRPR

    XPOTRPR CNC Programmer/Machinist

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    Also ordered a couple of these to see if I can fit them on the Prinsu to help stiffen it up.

    Screenshot_20211115-081938.jpg
     

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