The question: to be or not to be? In this case, toyota or not?

I know they rarely go bad. Did you ever give us the actual code? I can't find it.

 

What should be the reading to determine if good or bad?

 

No, i git a general diagnostic from Autozone, i will try to get a code from pep boys

 

Really w/o knowing how loud the hammer hits, you're just looking to move your reading. Pretty sure the reason for the hammer is because there is no exact vibration source a person can use.


It's under your intake, check the wires closely. That's more likely.

 

Autozone gave you the code. PO328 it's on that paper they gave you.

 

Thank you for noticing that.
Indeed is p0328
Any suggestions?

 

P0328 code definition
P0328 is a general OBD2 diagnostic trouble code pointing to a fault within the knock sensor 1 circuit.

What the P0328 code means
The P0328 code is telling us that there is a high input from the bank 1 knock sensor 1. The ECU detects excessively high voltage that is out of range of the knock sensor. This leads to the Check Engine Light being displayed on the dashboard.

What causes the P0328 code?

• Faulty knock sensor 1, bank 1
• Open or short in knock sensor circuit wiring
• Failed ECU
• Wrong octane fuel or lean air fuel ration
• Engine is overheating
• Low fuel pressure

What are the symptoms of the P0328 code?

• The Check Engine Light is the most noticeable symptom of the P0328 code.
  
  
• The engine may exhibit a loss of engine power and some slight hesitation.
  
  
• In some cases the driver may notice a pinging noise at higher RPMs or an engine that is running warmly.
  

How does a mechanic diagnose the P0328 code?

• Uses a scan tool hooked up into the DLC port of the vehicle and checks for any codes present along with any freeze frame data associated with the codes
  
  
• Clears the codes and a test drives the vehicle to duplicate the symptoms and code
  
  
• Listens for engine knocking
  
  
• Performs a visual inspection, looking for any faults
  
  
• Checks the cooling system and engine for any faults
  
  
• Check the fuel octane and fuel system if the engine is knocking
  
  
• Uses the scan tool to monitor the knock sensor voltage for changes if engine isn't knocking
  
  
• Uses a scan tool to check the engine coolant temperature and fuel pressures
  
  
• Tests the ECU, each vehicle has it's own testing procedure for the ECU
  

Common mistakes when diagnosing the P0328 code
Mistakes can be make when steps are not completed in the proper order or are skipped over completely. This can cause a misdiagnosis such as replacing the knock sensor when really the fuel pressure was causing a knock.

How serious is the P0328 code?
The P328 code should not prevent the vehicle from driving to a safe location once the code is triggered. The symptoms are generally rather mild but like any Check Engine Light should be repaired as soon as possible.

With the P0328 code there is the possibility that a mechanic engine issue or that the engine is running hot. If these symptoms are noticed care should be taken when driving.

What repairs can fix the P0328 code?

• Repairing or replacing the knock sensor wiring harness
• Replacing bank 1 knock sensor 1
• Replacing a faulty ECU
• Repairing fuel issues
• Repairing an overheating engine

Additional comments for consideration regarding the P0328 code
P0328 can be a difficult code to diagnose if steps are not followed when performing diagnosis. Many different systems can cause the P0328 and simple things can be overlooked if care is not taken.

A professional level scan tool is essential to properly diagnose this code. These scan tools allow technicians to view live data and voltage from sensors as well as check things like the fuel pressure and engine coolant temp which help pinpoint which system the fault lies with.

 

To test a knock sensor, pull up ignition timing pid on a scan tool, tap the engine block with a hammer near the sensor and see if the timing responds/changes

Knock sensors are piezoelectric, meaning they generate their own (small) voltage signal when a knock/vibration is detected. That's why they're only 1 wire.

If it's coding a knock sensor fault it probably needs a new sensor, and do the shielded harness section if it's available

 

I would buy the cheap knock sensor only to test and verify that it fixes the problem. If it does, buy the OE sensor and replace the cheap one. If it does not, replace with the original sensor, then question whether or not it was a faulty cheap sensor. This is all assuming it is easy to replace. If not easy to replace, buy the OE sensor and be done.

 

just had my truck with the "Check Engine" light on. I read the code with my OBD MX+ reader and decided to reset the codes and test drive it. Mind you, there had never by any weird or unusual sounds. The truck runs and sounds great.

After a full week, the code or check engine light did not return. For reference, I have a 2006 Tacoma PreRunner V6 with 185,000 miles.

I'm thinking I shouldn't be worried and it was probably an electrical issue but what do you guys think?? Any help is much appreciated.