CLOSED - The Retrofit Source GB

You! And while you're at it, take a 9v battery and test the high beam. Click it about 50 times just to make sure it's good and functioning.

You'll see and love the output vs stock

 

Exactly the latter. I don't even have the headlights that are being retrofitted opened or painted or anything yet.

Excellent, I will do that first chance I get before I get the rest of this underway.

 

Sweet! Let me/us know if you need anything else

 

So I tested the equipment today and everything (with the exception of the high beams as I didn't have a 9v battery) works great! I ran the wiring from the tailings to the front where the XSB drivers will go. @gym_jamz But when looking to tap into the turn signals, I had no green and yellow wire on either side. After a quick search, I found this post https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/taillight-wiring.159383/#post-3235933 which matches the wires I am seeing. So I think I am going to tap into those (yellow wire and blue/white respectively) wires unless anyone has other advice.

 

Which wire harness do I need to include in the retrofit package and what is the stock bulb size for the '14 Tacomas?

 

The first page has "helpful hints in choosing your package". It pretty much covers most questions asked.

 

Interesting...it's whatever the top connector is. Mine is green with yellow stripes
Example

BTW you don't need a 9v to test solenoid. Any 12v source would do; car battery etc. A 9v is just smaller and convient lol

MotoControl h4

 

Hm very interesting indeed. I was wondering if there is a difference in wiring for the older tail lights vs newer LEDs, but I see that you have a new truck with the leds as well. Pic immediately below is drivers side, then passenger below that.










The red, green, and blue wires are solid colored and there is a white with a black stripe. These four are on each side. The difference is a solid yellow wire on drivers, and a blue with white stripe wite on passenger.

 

Hmmm I guess the only way to tell is test it out with a voltmeter. That's a lot of wires though? Is that right at the bulb connector?

 

The other way to test it is to just do it and hope it works And luckily, it worked! Both halos functioned properly in normal mode and when the blinkers were turned on!

 

sweet man! Which wires was it again? Would like to know in case someone else needs help.

 

For my 2010, I tapped into the solid yellow wire in the drivers side tail light harness, and the blue/white striped wire in the passengers side tail light harness.

 

I can't seem to get my driver side projector to stay level....No matter how tight I get the nut on the back, the igniter causes it to be crooked because it fits so tightly. Would it be better to put some loctite on the back side or inside the bowl? I'd rather not take the lens off if I don't have to

 

Aim and level the headlights. Double check then take the headlights out. Take the oem boot off and put a dab of jb weld or jb kwik weld where the nut touches the reflector bowl. That should do it and that's how a lot of people do it. You don't have to jb weld the nut to the shaft. The lock nut was designed to deform a bit when tighten.

Lens stay on the whole time

 

Ah, JB weld would probably be a better option. I'm not sure how I can level the lights without the lens being removed though. Twisting on the igniter is what makes it crooked in the first place

 

Channel locks could rotate it a bit. Maybe give it another 1/8 of a turn to offset it with you putting the ignitor on. And if it it's 100% jb weld it!

 

Sure you can. Jet get a good hold of the igniter on the bulb and twist it gently, rotating it slowly. Then you can use epoxy to ensure it can't rotate once it is leveled.

 

Going to try that now. Thanks for the prompt replies!

 

JB Weld is drying. Guess we'll see what it looks like tomorrow

 

I hope it's 100% on point cause it will be a pita to fix it