The Tacoma Towing Bible

Don't know if Toyota assumes you are using trailer brakes but I think they are "required equipment" when towing that kind of weight.

 

Guess I should have said this in my previous post. Brakes on any vehicle are only designed to handle breaking of the vehicle up to it's GVWR (maybe a bit more for a safety margin). As well any brakes on a trailer are designed to stop the trailer at it's GVWR. So no.. tow ratings are not assumed that the trailer has brakes. The Tacoma has a GCWR of 11,100# and that would require a big set of brakes to handle that much weight.

 

How can the likes of Sullivan Palatek sell their tow-behind compressors (that weight 2000 lbs +) without brakes?

 

This is the rule of thumb that I use for highway use. Then it goes up depending on numerous factors related to trailer stability and where I'm going.

 

Not selling them in California

Actually .. as quoted from the California DMV

I would imagine that compressors, ready-mix and small ATV trailers don't meet the requirements. However Uhaul trailers here in California that have the ability to haul more than 1500# all have surge brakes on them.

 

Makes sense - they don't even have to have lights/plates either.

 

I have a 2008 4.0L Prerunner with the factory installed trailer package. I bought a Reese 6000lb ball mount hitch with a 2" ball. I'm planning to rent a U-Haul trailer for a 750 mile tow. I'm considering renting the U-haul 5' X 10' cargo trailer with tandem axles and surge brakes. Specs are listed below. Should I be good to go as long as I don't use overdrive? Any comments on their recommended 45 mph max speed?


Thanks, Bill

• Volume: up to 230 cu. ft.
• Max load: 1,550 lbs.
• Gross vehicle weight: 2,800 lbs. max
• Empty weight: 1,250 lbs.
• Inside dimensions: 9'10" x 4'9" x 4'7" (LxWxH)
• Door opening: 3'9" x 4'0" (WxH)

Your towing vehicle:

• • Must weigh at least 2,700 lbs. (curb weight)
  • Must have Class 2 tow hitch (3,500 lb. minimum weight-carrying rating)
  • Must have 1-7/8", 2" or 2-1/8" hitch ball (3,500 lbs. minimum)
  • Must not exceed maximum allowable hitch ball height 25"
  • Must have external mirrors on both sides
  • Must have fully operational lighting
  • Trailer lighting must be operational at all times, day and night
  • Maximum recommended speed is 45 MPH

 

Yes. I towed a U-Haul autotransport (2,000lbs by itself) with a vehicle on (chevy lumina, 70's style Ford pickup, 69 ranger, and a Blazer over 4 trips) without any real problems. Sounds like you'll be well below the weight I was pulling, and I still was able to use 6th on the flats and down hills.

 

Bill,
You will be pleased with how the vehicle tows!
From my experience with that specific model of U-haul is to get the heavier items in the front. With the short length and the tandem axles, there is so little tare (un-loaded) tongue weight, that the scrawny U-haul salesperson could lift the tongue with one arm.
Most novice movers save the bed and dresser for last as they're the heaviest and bulkiest items; but you need to get those in the front of the cargo trailer.

 

As for the 45mph that's UHaul's way of doing a C-Y-A. Most people don't properly load the trailers with 60% of the load being ahead of the axles then they go flying down the road and end up with bigtime sway from their trailer wagging all over the place. Advising people to drive 45 helps minimize sway even with an improper loading.

Remember these are also the people that won't rent to people with Ford Exploders because the vehicle is supposedly prone to rollover so UHaul doesn't want any lawsuits from improperly loaded trailers swaying and being blamed for an Exploder flip.

 

piercedtiger, CtryBoyInMT, and j4x4ar3,

Thanks for the responses. I can always count on Tacoma World members to provide helpful answers.

 

I just picked up an 06 Jayco Jay Flight 20BH SE this past weekend off C/L down in Concord, NC. Drove it back to Washington DC maintaining 55-60mph / 2250-2500 rpm's / and got 12.5 mpg - 4th gear. SWEET! The truck pulled like the 4200lb camper wasn't even there. NO issues at all. Totally impressed and wonder why I bought V8 power for the last 12 years. I used Tow-N-See mirrors; LOVE THEM, totally recommend.

 

Noob. First Post.
First of all, great info and huge thanks to Mavrick and pierced tiger for all of it.

petersharp, to answer your question about selling trailers w/o brakes, i recently purchased a tandem axle utility trailer that has two 3500# axles. GVWR is 7000#. Load is 7000# - 1500#(trailer weight). It DID NOT come with brakes, even though Florida law requires anything over 3000# GVWR to be equipped as such. The dealer said they way they get away with it is by stating the trailer GVWR is 2990#. I can only assume they do this to get the buyer to have brakes installed at dealer prices with labor. But without question, the trailer is capable of carrying much more than 2990#, but not legally or safely W/O brakes.

I have read this thread 3 times and have most answers that I was looking for. Here is my deal; I have a 2008 Taco, Doublecab, shortbed 2WD with rear diff lock, Rugged Package and tow package. All factory. Also brakes/controller. I recently sold my RV which was a Coachman Spirit of America 249QB. Dry weight was 4200#. I don't know the tongue weight. It towed easily with and without WDH, which I also have. I am currently purchasing a 2009 Jayfeather 28R which weights 5200# dry (6500 GVWR) and has a tongue weight of 742#. I realize I will HAVE to use the WDH on this one. I travel 1500 miles 2-3 times a year. When I inquired at Camperworld about Airbags, the technician informed me that the WDH should resolve the excess 92# tongue weight. Is this true? This is a great trailer at a great price and I do not want to change trucks. I tow a tandem axle 16' lawn trailer one a week that weighs 5000# with zero problems and i'm guessing the tongue weight is up there due to heavy mowers in the front of the trailer. I also tow a 20' Proline CC coming in around 5000# and snatch it out of the water W/O problems. My Coachman made me sag BARELY in the rear W/O the WDH. I have the Rugged Package so I believe my shocks are upgraded anyway??

Also, the TSB. On a local road near my house, there are a couple short dips that, at a decent speed, cause my rear end to "bump" when the truck dips. I notice this even more when I have any decent weight in the bed. Will the TSB fix this? And will it help with the excess tongue weight?

Thanks for any input, sorry if my questions were answered and I didn't see it previously.

 

5200# dry? I most definitely think you need a bigger truck. If you plan on putting anyone else in your truck besides you and potentially put any gear in the bed you're going to be way overloaded once you load up your trailer and hitch it. Trailer tongue weight should be at minimum 12% of the total trailer weight. Say you top out at 6000# loaded on the trailer.... that's 720# at minimum you need on the tongue which is 1/2 the truck's payload ability. Air bags will NOT increase your payload capacity. Add a passenger or two and some gear in the bed and be slightly heavier on the tongue and you'll be over the GVWR of the truck itself. If you only do it short distances then maaaybee you'll be alright but if you plan on using your trailer and going anywhere far the wear and tear on your truck will be significant towing over the GVWR all the time. I say from personal experience with my trailer .. don't do it!! Get a bigger truck or stick with the origional trailer. 1000# or so more trailer you'll definitely notice and will not be happy with the experience.

 

I have a stupid question about trailer towing. We have looked at a 27' travel trailer that we really like. The dry weight is 4470#. GVWR is 6200#. My Taco is a 2006 LWB Double cab V6 Prerunner with the towing package. The concern is that the Dry Hitch weight of the trailer is about 600# which (if my calculations are correct) will make the total hitch weight around 800 # when we load the TT, add weight of propane, battery, and weight distribution hitch. The dealer says it will be no problem using a good weight distribution hitch, but I am not convinced. You are the expert-what do you think?
Thanks,

cliff

 

I wouldn't do it. If you've read any of my towing posts I have a 26' travel trailer that's 4200# dry and loaded about 5200# (GVWR 7000#). My dry tongue weight is just under 400# though. I have to load everything in the trailer just to keep the truck below it's GVWR. If you're looking at having a hitch weight off 800# (not including the weight of the weight distribution hitch and such) you can put even less in your truck than I do. (maybe toss a passenger ).

I would highly recomend keeping the tongue weight as low as you can or consider a Tundra. My kids are getting bigger and they want to take more stuff with them.. I'm seriously considering a new Tundra myself in the next year or so.

 

Hi all,

I am in the market for a boat that comes with brakes on it. However, due to Toyota's short thinking, I don't have a brake controller plug in my truck via the factory harness as it is the 4x4 reg cab 4 cylinder 5 spd. manual tranny. I have installed a Valley-T class III hitch and got the Valley-T 4 pole harness adaptor and then installed the 4 to 7 pole (with 4 pole on it) adaptor as well.

My question is whether or not I can install a brake controller on this truck. I looked in my fuse box under the hood and there is a spot for the 30 Amp relay that is open......

I am an electro/mechanical tech....so my knowledge is good, but the Towing Bible did't cover my needs. I am no pro at towing by any means, so I ask the guru.....please....teach me.....

 

My offhand response would be no.... You need the 7-pin wiring all the way back to the trailer for brakes, not just a 4-7 adapter on the back. The wiring for 4-pin connectors only runs the brake lights, signals, markers, and reverse lights.

I would even hazard a guess and say you can't/shouldn't tow anything heavy enough to require brakes with the 4 banger. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think a 4 banger, non-tow package can tow enough to worry about brakes.

 

Well, it is a boat that is about 17 feet long. The trailers are noted to have brakes on them. The boat is about 2k and the trailer another 300# so I am well under the weight limit...though a full tank of gas on the boat adds another 200#. It was 'suggested' that if the trailer has brakes, to use them.

Also, the wires would have to be run from the cab / controller to the adapter, but the adaptor has the blue, black and other necessary leads.

I have read that the 4 banger has done well with towing as long as you stay under 3k#.

 

I would be suprised if the 4 banger has the factory wiring setup like the 6 cylinders do.