The Tacoma Towing Bible

I had been wondering what the deal was regarding towing in overdrive. Now I have the answer - thanks. I tow a pop up at 3500-4000 lbs.depending on the amount of firewood and booze on board, and generally have it in overdrive unless there is some other reason not to - hills, traffic, braking. Even in the towing lanes here in California the traffic can run at 70 - 80 mph anything less and you have a big rig up your tailpipe. I haven't encountered the hunting problem. I really love how the Tacoma tows.

 

Living in sunny SoCal I haven't had the need to chain up but we want to winter camp in the snow. Naturally being 4wd I chain up all 4, but what about the trailer? I was told since it has brakes it should have chains also.

 

Have you actually chained up this truck yet? Chains don't fit on the front unless you have something other than normal chains....

 

1. no
2. what's normal? we have several types on the shelves and
3. you got an answer to my question?

 

I don't tow my personal trailers in the snow, in fact I winterize the RV and leave it sit from early november to mid april, however, my thoughts on chaining the trailer are as follows...

Trailer suspension is not the greatest to begin with, so the added vibration that will be created by the chains is likely to shake the hell out of your beer, and take everything out of your cabinates and put it on the floor of the rig.

That said I also do not chain the trailer tires on the semi trailer I pull for work everyday when it's snowing, so I am going to say no to chains on the trailer.

 

Thanks for the info, I did a little more checking and found out that trailers with brakes are required to have chains in Calif. I guess it's a small price to pay to be able to surf in the morning and hit the slopes in the afternoon.

 

As for RV trailers, I've never towed one. Just my car hauler and small snowmobile trailers.
On the ranch, I've towed flat beds and a gravity feed grain hauler. My old man, who taught me to drive farm trucks, said to chain one trailer axle to keep the rig from jack-knifing. But that being said, I've see big rigs in MT run without them, also.

I use alpine sports on the front axle of my 08 tacoma. They utilize a cable on the inside loop and clears the Upper Control Arm. Since I've moved to Kansas I haven't needed them too much, so maybe in a (Worst case scenario) tight turn driving down into a ditch, you may hook a v-bar (Cross link) in the wheel well plastic.
Stupid, I know... but I just figure I'll cross that river when I get there. And take my I told you so's.

 

1. Then you haven't read the manual about not chaining the front, or looked to see there's only 1/2" clearance at most between the tires and the UCA.
2. Normal? wtf? How else can I explain it... I thought chain was chain. You know, metal links hooked together into sections that go around the inside and outside of the tire with cross sections connecting them. Anything remotely like this:


As apposed to any cable or specialized "traction aid" that is NOT a chain.
3. No. But I thought it was more important to make you think about chaining the front before you did it and ripped a UCA off.

 

Got a picture of those on? I'd like to see them. I don't think I could run even them with my current tires. I have 1/4" clearance between the UCA and tire now, and they rub slightly on full lock.

 

I just found this, very nice write up mav. I know who I am going to be pm'g when I get my hitch for my new truck. Its the only thing that the new truck doesnt have is the tow package.

 

oh man... good luck with that if you're trying to do the factory tow package after purchase... All the parts are so expensive you're better off living with the 3500lb tow capacity than trying to upgrade to get the 6500lb rating.

 

Really I was thinking of getting and aftermarket hitch and bribing mav to help with the wiring. Mav my wife can cook some mean Italian food man.

 

That would be fine if you don't want to use the max tow capacity of 6500 for the truck.

I just read through a post on TN by Lotust where he didn't get the factory tow, and is trying to add it himself... It's looking like over $1000 worth of parts to do it on his own between the hitch, wiring, 7-pin plug, brake controller harness, oil cooler, tranny cooler, and some other odd parts. That doesn't include the bigger alternator or battery that comes with the tow package either. He's really beating his head on the wall and dropping lots of cash trying to make up for not getting it from the factory.

I'll see if I can find the thread.
Edit:
Found one: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t240841.html
That was JUST trying to add the oil cooler. $503 for a factory oil cooler (required for towing 6500lbs)!! And that doesn't include a tranny cooler or any other parts.

 

Tiger's right, about using the full 6500lbs that a v6 tacoma can pull, will require quite a bit of extra work and money.

As for installing a hitch and wiring, that is a cake walk and relatively cheep. Even a tranny cooler won't be bad, to do other than making sure that we add the correct amount of the right type of tranny fluid for the increased capacity used by the cooler and the lines going to it.

The truck's towing capacity without the towing package is 3500lbs, however, that is based on using the bumper to pull with. A class III hitch, brake controller, and trans cooler will get you to 5000lbs safely. If we are talking an RV then the bigger alternator would be a good idea, if you connect the charging circuit as you'll be charging 2 batteries instead of just one, but without the charging circuit the bigger alternator will not be required either.

Anyway, Homer, let me know and we'll try to figure out when our schedules match up, and I'll be happy to help. I'll decline the italian meal though as garlic and I do not get along at all, but a good steak can never be turned down.

 

Ok man thanks I will let you now.

 

Wow thanks for the info man, I dont really plan on towing anything over 3500lbs anyway.(maybe a popup camper in a few years) But I wish I would of gotten the tow package after reading that. DOH....

 

I know! Even if I didn't tow I'd be glad I got the tow package just for that! It added less than $800 to the price of the truck I think, and it would cost more than that to add the stuff.

Of course, knowing I have the capability has lead me to push the limits of my truck.... So It's just as well I have the extra protection.

 

Funny... I've towed several things at or above 6000lbs and it handled fine. And I have a smaller, more maneuverable, more fuel efficient vehicle for the rest of the time. Oh and it cost a lot less than a Tundra too.

 

Not really any of your business, but I've been to 3 colleges, and lived in 2 states. I've had 10-15 jobs in as many cities learning from people of all sorts. You seem to think I've never left "the sticks". I just live there to avoid pretentious people like you.

Oh, and I'm a member on half a dozen Toyota forums reading other people posts.

Considering what I've towed with my truck, it goes places a Tundra would, and it is easier on my wallet with both monthly payments and gas I find your comment to "buy a Tundra" stupid. If you're towing more than 6500lbs (as in 7,000-8,000) then you need a Tundra or something bigger than a Tacoma, but 6500 and under its perfectly capable.

Not sure you meant towing above 6,000 or 5,000lbs to buy a Tundra since you referenced 5,000 doesn't need a tranny cooler or oil cooler, then jumped to 6,000 the next line.

I guess you also missed Maverick's post about needing the bigger battery and alternator to run the charging circuit on the trailer. Doesn't really matter how heavy the trailer is if it has an electrical system that puts more demand on the truck.

I suppose by your logic though oil changes aren't "needed" since they serve no purpose other than to protect you engine and extend it's life. (which is what oil and tranny coolers do)

 

Or do you.. that's the real question. I've asked many times in posts in other forums what the user manual says for the 06+ Tacoma for towing. My 05 manual says to put the selector in D for heavy towing [and let the transmission figure things out]. For the most part that works for me out on the flats and increases my gas mileage by 2-4mpg. Obviously when on an uphill grade or heavy head wind I drop down to 4 to prevent hunting but I've never really had a problem.

Just as a side note as well. According to the manual D isn't considered as overdrive. Putting the selector in D though tells the ECU that you want to make overdrive available to it should conditions exist where the overdrive gear could be used. The ECU decides at that point. Putting the selector into 4 though tells the ECU that overdrive is NOT available. Also on downhill grades the engine breaking feature is NOT available when in D.

I don't have a scanner or I would put a screen shot of my manual here. When I get home I'll try and post the page number from the 05 for those that want to go back and look it up yourself.


BTW regarding the post about 5000# not needing the tranny cooler. I would say you're pushing your luck doing that. Without the towing package the gen 2 trucks are rated to tow 3500# from the bumper. Anything more than that then the truck should be equipped with the proper towing package. The bigger battery and alternator are meant to supply power for trailer lighting and the electric brakes on the larger trailer. Smaller 3500# trailers usually only have one axle and 2 brakes. Larger trailers have 2 axles and 4 brakes putting more electrical demand on the system... oh and usually more trailer lights as well as a battery charging circuit for the battery on the tongue of the trailer (backup break power if the trailer gets disconnected in route). Pulling grades as well generates a lot more tranny heat. I would say though if you regularly pull 5000# that you should have gotten a truck with the factory tow package though with the Class IV hitch. Personal opinion but towing at the limit of the hitch on a regular basis isn't always the best thing.

BTW I pull a 26' travel trailer with a loaded weight at just about 5000# and wouldn't even consider it without the factory tow package.

piercedtiger I'm with you on the comments about the truck (daily driver and towing) I've got 63,000 miles on my truck but only about 3000 miles towing my travel trailer. I'm sure glad I don't own a larger Tundra or I would be broke with the fuel costs. My wife also would never drive it because she can barely park the truck I have.