The ultimate foglight upgrade H11 (not LED or HID)

This is a sweet setup.

 

That's exactly what i did. Un-clipped from the main fuse box. Pried the bottom off. tapped into wire. Ran new wire through harness and through rubber boot on firewall. And attached to switch. Nice clean professional looking job.

I'm still amazed that you could look at this and figure it out like you did. I am simply amazed. Thanks again. Now my switch works 100% the way it should. All because of you Leftcoast....(you are an electrical genius!!!)

 

I've been tinkering with electrons since I was in middle school (ok, we called it Jr High back then) circa 1966.

 

Didn't read through all of the posts so I am not sure if it has already been mentioned, but H9 bulbs can be modified to fit H11 sockets. An H9 bulb will put out about 2000 lumens compared to the H11's 1350 lumens.

I did the swap on my Lancer fog lights and the difference in light output was quite significant.

 

and that h9 will last half as long.

 

It pays to read through all the posts... H9 bulbs were addressed a number of times, most notably in post #1 and post #95.

 

Sub'd

 

fog lamps are more typically gated with the LOW beams, its "driving lights" that you use with high beams.

anyways, your description is a little confusing

 

Qestion about the wiring harmess... Do you need an in line fuse on the harness itself if so what size.

 

Fuse protection is both required and INCLUDED.

 

Sweet. Thnx

 

A little late in catching up on some older posts, but as mentioned by @Norton the H9s were covered. The H11s in the original post are about 2000 lumens without causing any of the glare issues that the H9 bulb causes, while at the same time being designed for longer bulb life.

An H9 bulb should never be run in an H11 housing that is not intended for high beam, as you will blind everyone with the uncontrolled scatter.

 

Has anyone had success installing the Flosser H11 bulbs with the harness from Ray at rallylights? I wrote to him and this was his reply:

I build the HL282H11 harness suitable for upgrading Toyota Tacoma H11 fog light wiring.

I am not certain if the HL282H11 is suitable for your Tacoma H11 low beams.

Depending on how the factory wired the headlights, the high beam indicator may not function properly with H11 low beam harness installed.

I have plenty of H11 female connectors in stock.

One H11 male trigger connector is required per harness & we are not stocking those.

You could source the H11 male connector yourself & ship it to me or possibly install it yourself.
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If I simply put in the Flosser bulbs without the harness from Ray and starved the bulbs with less voltage, am I still going to be better off than stock lights?

 

Working perfectly here, along with the Ultimate Headlight Upgrade.

Not sure that's a good idea. The Flösser bulbs run at a higher wattage than stock, meaning they draw more power which could overheat the stock harness.

 

Actally i get what your saying about the DRL (daytime running lights for the third gen). In the third gen the DRL are the leds in the headlights not the h11s. However i am worried that it may still not cooperate for low beams because of a dimming resistor on the common wiring to the bulbs. I dont know how accurate that is but can someone verify if ALL our lights would work on the 2016 after this mod...that would be the lows and the highs. Just the fogs though im very confident on that working 100% but worries about the lows.

 

My harness is on it's way and I'll post when I try to use it on the lows of a 3rd gen 2016.

 

As well, I shipped two male H11 connectors to Ray at Rallylights. He should have one left after building my harness. Please use it!

 

Thanks for paying it forward!

 

First off let me thank @crashnburn80 for his great idea and help. I went a little different route, but still incorporated his intent. I already had the busman 10 circuit added to my truck. It is wired with 4 Awg though an 80amp breaker directly from the battery. So I decided to use one of the relays for the head lights. Each circuit has 10 gauge wire out so I used that for a short 18" run and then split off to two 12 gauge runs to each head light. This should have less than 1% voltage drop. If I like the results I will also be doing the fog lights.



Harness that runs from the busman to the two headlights and also has the trigger wire from the left side OEM connector. The white 18 gauge wire provides 12 VDC to the busman relay from the OEM connector. I used a second male plug with green plugs installed on the right side to protect the OEM headlight connector from water and corrosion.


Used to protect the right OEM connector.

Here is the new harness next to the busman connector.



I routed the wiring harness around the left side with the other factory wiring to the left headlight area. Zipped tied in a couple of place. pluged in the trigger wire to the OEM connector and the 12 gauge connector to the H11 bulb. I then removed the black cover on top of the radiator by removing the 7 push pins. If you notice in the picture one of the push pins is now missing as I dropped it and never could find it.



I now have the new harness plugged into the OEM bulb and connector on the left side and the OEM harness plugged into the right side OEM bulb. This was to see if the wiring alone made an improvement. It looks like it to my eye but pictures in daylight does not show it. I will take more pictures tonight when it gets dark.

Bulbs I will be using.

 

Nicely done! Be sure to let us know what you think of the output in the 3rd gen headlights with the new bulbs. In the 2nd gen the harness results in 0.4-0.5v increase at the bulb, looking at some charts that looks to be roughly a 15% improvement in output on stock bulbs.

I noticed you used plastic connectors for the bulb connection, I used ceramic high heat connectors. I doubt it would be an issue but something to double check when you swap to high wattage.