The ultimate headlight upgrade H4 (not LED or HID)

Sorry, but those are very unscientific pictures that show nothing of value.

 

You are right! They are just a sneak peek.

You see this project is, still, in research.

Into a sealed system, where everything seems to have just one and only one answer, it is, (or it supposed to be so), a mission impossible.

When ready, and if everything is absolutely perfect, then I hope that I 'll be in position for more info.

 

I hope you've added a drain to your prototype to let all of the water that's going to leak in have someplace to exit. As for the scatter you're going to get, good luck on that one.

 

The best scientific proof , for the validity of any experiment, is the duplication. My experiments are easily duplicated.

The used headlights are the early paraboloid type. For the free form, as yours, I do not know what is going to happen.

Simplified heretics, h3+h4, first try:

 

Water? Ιn my thermal tests, even without any cooling which is established into the headlights, and with the headlight stationary, on the bench, the case remained sealed without any sight of damage. Even the crystal doesn't broke when suddenly, with three bulbs in operation some minutes ago, a water spray was directed against it:



As for the scatter, the only case is if the total thing will not be perfect. But in such a case I am not going to drive.

 

I will give it 2

 

Yes, if you know that just one 100w bulb raises the temperature up to 81° C (178° F):



Without this:



for a poor, stationary, headlight, a simultaneous operation of all the halogens



a water spray , may be a very tough test.

 

This should go in its own thread. This thread is for light upgrades that go directly into a stock Toyota Tacoma headlight assembly.

 

And it is really on the edge, since without all the, afterwards, precautions the result was this:

 

Good lord! The filament placement in that thing is beyond awful. It flunks Optics 101 on so many different levels I lost count.

 

As I said above this is just the first try.

The result, though, is beyond my expectations.

The h3 bulb will be placed without the base and reversed, (I think).

Something like this:



But without the walk on the parabola, as was obliged to do here.

 

+1! This thread is about scientifically and safely optimizing properly focused light output from OEM Tacoma headlights. It is not (nor should it be) about ill-advised Frankenlight experimentation on a VW. 90% of the last page-and-a-half have nothing to do with the former and everything to do with the latter.



With all due respect, new member @Hellenic Vanagon would do well to familiarize himself with forum ettiquette and start a separate thread to discuss what he's doing.

 

I totally agree with you.

So here is my final word:

The work on a lens geometry must have accuracy.



By putting an h3 exactly over an h4, on the top, on a parallel axis, (reversed), you a have a + crossing of the two filaments, (the one has longitudinal filament, the other vertical), so the h4 is shaded as less as possible.

On the other hand, the h3 uses the screen of the h4, to an extend, since the surface of the screen is 90% free to that direction.

The h3 has a smaller diameter than an h4, so is the ideal candidate, (vs another h4 which in any case cannot be used in this position for many reasons), in order to have its filament the closer possible to the point the h4 radiates.

An optimization to this system is to use a conventional h4, in terms of diameter, and not the "fat boy" I used.


As I said to my first post, your forum is, really, very interesting.

But I recognize that my "Frankelight" posts, do not have any terra here.

You can delete them or do whatever you like.

If someone likes anything of the above is invited to see another of my "Syncroventions", as I call them, or "Frankelight", as you called, having to do with the ignition: The surface discharge ignition.


This project is continued here: Forced Aircooled, ultra high wattage, halogen h4, headlamps.

You are welcome to my blog and especially to A Syncro Heresy?

I will keep watching your forum.

Thank you for your time.

Bye.

 

The 60/80w = 155/195w being based on color temperature is what PIAA does to justify the claim. I have no idea if IPF uses anything to attempt to justify their misleading marketing claim, because it is complete BS. It is an 80w bulb that puts out 80w of light, it doesn't magically double the output from the same power input, these companies prey upon people gullible enough to fall for that type of fake marketing. The only halogen bulbs that break that mold are 9011/HIR1 and 9012/HIR2, which have roughly 33% more output. And the X4s are not an HIR bulb.

Abomination.

Note how that tree that is above your cut off line is very well illuminated even when you don't have your other bulbs on. You have fubared the optics by placing additional objections inside the assembly. Additional bulbs in the assembly have rounded glass, they will cause the light to bend to areas it is not supposed to go and reduce effectiveness in areas that you do want it to go, causing increased glare and reduced beam performance. And as predicted, since the other bulbs are not at all aligned with any kind of proper optics they fail to project any light in a controlled fashion and dump it off in immediate foreground light which is actually harmful for your night distance vision. Because you need the light source to be perfectly centered in a halogen assembly for the light to actually work. If it is not centered these are the kinds of garbage results you will get, which is why I said you need dedicated aux driving lights for additional bulbs. This is fact.

His point was you have compromised the sealing of the housing by adding extra holes. You will very likely end up with water intrusion and condensation in the lens.

You're expectations and/or understanding is clearly not up to par.

The headlight upgrade covered in this thread pushes the envelope to beyond legal limits, but does so in a highly disciplined approach. Your Frankenstein project of introducing several foreign bodies into the headlight assembly especially with curved glass increases glare for oncoming drivers while reducing your own headlight performance. Then the additional lights will offer no significant increases in projected distance output because they are not properly aligned in the reflector assembly to project light, meaning you get a dump of high amounts of foreground light due to misaligned optics, which is the last thing you want from a headlight. Unfortunately this might look 'cool', just like when people put poor LEDs in their headlights and think they are great due to the massive amount of foreground, not realizing they lost distance projection. To make it all worse you have crazy high current draw and extreme heat which will lead to short bulb life. But a halogen bulb is also requires uniform heat distribution, meaning it cannot be placed right next to another heat source as the heating will not be even and lead to rapid bulb failure. And no, a microprocessor cooling fan will not solve the issue. On top of all that, with additional holes in the assembly you will very likely have water intrusion problems. A spray test is insufficient to test the issue.

To Break this down very clearly:
1) You have caused increased glare due to foreign curved glass in your headlight assembly
2) You have reduced low beam performance due to foreign objects in your headlight assembly
3) Additional light sources are not position to project light, leading to just dumping of foreground light which is harmful for distance vision
4) Massive current draw and non-uniform halogen heat distribution, leading to very short bulb life
5) Compromised headlight seals, leading to likely water intrusion

In every measurable way this is a significant headlight downgrade.

If you do the right thing and add a pair of aux driving lights:
1) No increased glare from curved glass in stock headlights
2) No low beam loss of performance from foreign objects in headlights
3) Additional lights have bulbs positioned on center for projection performance without massive increase in foreground light
4) You don't need 6 bulbs, so reduced current draw. Bulbs will have even heat distribution for appropriate longer bulb life.
5) Headlight seals remain intact, so there are no water intrusion issues.

In every measurable way doing it correctly is a performance upgrade.

 

Thank you for your time!

 

Every time I turn on the lights, it puts a smile

 

Now back to our regularly scheduled program...

 

Was kinda waitin for the subject of dylithium crystals to be brought up before I bailed.

 

Man, and I thought I was the only one to dread this world class thread hijack. Hopefully now we can get back to 1) Lighting improvements for Toyota Tacomas, and 2) ideas with some solid science behind them. Mike drop.