Dick's Dank Yank Wank Tank

Tim's doughnuts sure , their coffee sucks balls

 

What you do with your free time with yourself is your business, and no one else's.

 

So I freaked out on our last trip when the ARB went into power save mode after 1 day. Usually it has lasted 2.5 days to 3 when stationary and not getting a trickle charge from the truck.

I flipped out, figured it didn't get the trickle charge from the truck on the 5-hour drive in, checked fuses, 7-pin, everything I could in the middle of nowhere. What I did not check was the battery saving monitor setting in the ARB that I always have on med or low (10.1v shutoff). Somehow, I found out much later at home when diagnosing, it got set to high, and that is what screwed me. Now I know better to check that first.

But the whole scenario motivated me to take a hard look at the system and do a controlled test.

I fully charged the battery using my CTEK.
The fridge was empty. It is harder to keep air cold than a full fridge. So that was a bit of a stress test for worst case scenario/max power consumption.

The USB Voltage meter on the interior plug (inside the trailer cabin) is

$13 PALUMMA 24W/4.8A Dual USB Car Charger, 12V to USB Outlet with Cigarette Lighter Voltage Meter LED/LCD Display Battery Low Voltage Warning (Black)

one of these little Palumma units I bought on Amazon. Got one for the truck cab, and the Leer 12v outlets, too. Consistently saw ~.2v difference ( I assume basic voltage drop on the circuit), but it only reads to tenths of a volt

The CTEK battery lead data us from me using a multimeter directly on the charge leads to the battery. My meter was reading at 100ths of a volt.

The strong dips and peaks indicate when the fridge compressor was running, and then after it shut off. This was all pretty random interval over the weekend.

 

You sir have way to much time on your hands

 

I'm not too concerned about reducing volatage drop, because there just isn't much that can be done, or it probably is not the effort. It is a very short run from the battery in the trailer to the fuse block, maybe 2 ft, and all that length is needed just to be able to pull out and disconnect the damn battery. Downstream of the fuse block the wire is hidden, but it can only be 3 to 4 ft Max. And the ARB power cords are specialized and whatever gauge they are.

I mainly wanted to get a baseline to work with and better understand the system, which will enable me to have a more measured approach when requesting the boy to QUIT FUCKING WITH THE LIGHTS.

But I'll likley hardwire a voltage meter into the circuit somewhere back there.

Oh yeah, and my next question how much trickle charge is going from the truck to the battery per hour when driving.

 

Lol yeah...not even on the shelf yet. But on a list somewhere....

 

Are you using one of the ARB 12v outlets?

 

You mean the screw-in type?

 

Yeah that one. Was wondering if it only has the screw in connection or if it also has a regular 12v plug on it also. Seems from reading about it that something comes apart to use the screw in connection.

Back story, The 12v plug (outlet side) I bought to go in the truck is loose fitting with my fridge. Was looking for something that fits better. Just wondering if I can plug mine into a ARB outlet. Appears if not that I could possible change my cord to a ARB to get around that issue if not. Would rather not buy all that just to use the ARB outlet though.

 

The cord tip does indeed come apart to reveal a small, proprietary two prong plug with an index notch that threads into the ARB outlet, which I'm going to get, even though my trailer's 12v cigarette outlet (called Merritt style, I believe) has a solid connection.

But if you don't have an ARB fridge, that end of the connection could be tricky. Google a video on the ARB outlet, and you should get a good hit that show you.

I'd pos it, but literally shitposting from phone before I wake up the boy.

 

Connections on mine look to be the same as the ARB on fridge side.

So the ARB 12v outlet is screw in type only? Or will a standard 12v plug fit it also?

 

Screw in only.

 

Well shit.

 

Subbed for screwin’

 

Look into another brand of Merritt outlet?

 

What's a Merritt outlet?

 

My bad, it is merit, and apparently it is smaller than a standard 12v cigarette lighter plug/outlet.

So I guess I mean a different brand cigarette plug outlet with a better snug fit that what you just got.

Once I swap mine out of the trailer, I'll see if it has any useful ID info. It's pretty darn snug.

 

#snuglife

 

I do like a snug fit.