TheNatural's 2012 Totally Expo Trail Limo Build

I have been thinking about new bump stops for the front. Thanks for the pics those look really good.

 

Couple little things today. Switched back to my winter tires, realized I haven't been driving much at all the last year or two. Only 15k since last time I put my winters on!

Replaced a cracked side view mirror. It caught a rock that was kicked up by the tires a couple months ago. Genuine Toyota replacement, good as new and super easy.


Replaced fog lights. One caught a rock and has been broken for a while, the other recently filled with water. I went with some cheap ones from Amazon as OEM was $$$ and they don't seem to last long. A combination of gravel roads, river crossings, and lack of fender liners seems to do them in. Amazon ones are definitely a bit lower quality, but I was pleasantly surprised for the price.



And the new ones:


I replaced a DRL/turn signal bulb too. I don't recall having an issue with them before, but the amber coating on the last couple seems to fade pretty quickly and they're almost clear after a few months. Just on the one side, but it's happened twice now. Maybe it's getting a slightly high voltage somehow and running too hot? Anyone have any ideas?

 

I got the multimeter out last night and everything seems fine with that DRL. Maybe I just had bad luck with bulbs a couple times in a row. But then I remembered that I've had some switchback LED's in my toolbox forever and I didn't install them because I was too lazy to wire the resistors. I already had my multimeter out, soo... LED switchbacks. It got dark as I was finishing the first one so drivers side will have to wait until after work tomorrow. They're kinda neat.

 

Installed the other switchback a couple days ago and replaced the winch controller socket on the winch solenoid. I broke a pin in the socket a while ago trying to plug the remote in in a hurry. Feels good to be getting these little things taken care of and getting the truck back in tip top shape.

 

Got a new pop pin for the rear bumper swing out in the mail yesterday. The last one broke over a year ago when my wife borrowed my truck and didn't latch the swing out. I think this is the 4th time I've ordered one and finally got the right part! One was too short, one didn't make it through customs for some unknown reason, one didn't have my phone number on the package so it sat in the pickup location near my house for a month and got sent back, but finally I have succeeded in getting a replacement!

Acklands' Canadian website has them now, so I didn't have to order from US which made it a lot easier.

 

I discovered a rear seat delete kit by Goose Gear. Look at all this room! they seem pretty pricey at ~1k for the whole back seat, but I might try to DIY something similar. Not my pic, stolen from the Google machine.

 

Got around to installing a flip up license plate bracket on the rear bumper. It's been in the parts pile for a while. Flips up to expose the behind-the-license-plate hitch when needed.

 

that goose gear kit is real nice, but like anything of theirs, expensive as fuuuuuck

my flip up hinge seized up on me so i just bend my plate when needed

 

I am kind of expecting the bracket to fail in a couple years ... The license plate recess in the bumper loves to fill with salty snow and those hinges and springs aren't the thickest of steel. I hadn't thought of bending the plate... A bit crude, but if it works!

 

Hello all your switches look awesome!! I’m going to replace my oem rear diff lock switch like you did. I’m using the CH4x4 rear diff lock switch that has 4 wires, the oem switch has 4 wires also but I don’t know what color goes where to the stock harness!? Any information would be a great help thanks!!

 

Welcome to TW! Unfortunately I can't help you with the e locker wiring. My truck is a sport model, no factory locker at all. The switch I wired is for an aftermarket air locker.

 

I've decided we need an official Expo points system so I have begun work on a draft. Ladders, roof racks, snorkels, RTTs (soft vs hard shell), lights... all worth some good points. Pointless things like quality suspension and lockers will not be worth very much. Be prepared for your build threads to be scored in the coming days or weeks.

EDIT: The usual scoring method is based on photographs in the first post of a build thread. This build was scored using first hand knowledge of the build even though the photos are out of date. It's unfair, but so is expo life.

This build has been scored 183 Expo Points based on the v0.1 Expo Points scoring system. The use of roof mounted storage was a significant score booster, as was the use of both a VHF and CB radio. The winch mount/mini bumper was not anticipated in the scoring system, so it was scored at 50% of a steel bumper.

Full scoring sheet is attached.

 

I feel like your scoring sheet is incomplete at best and inadequate.
For instance, I see absolutely no mention of a trashy roo. Also, I feel like 12V refrigerators, folding furniture, automobile mounted selfie sticks, and skottles have all been ignored.
Once those major issues are addressed, you might consider a bonus point system involving instasnapfacechatgram followers/likes, etc.

 

Oh, and appropriate stickers as well.

 

I have been scoring trasharoos as externally mounted accessories, same as hi lift or maxtrax.
Fridges are on there, have another look!

I have not included folding furniture or skottles because they strike me as cargo and not part of the expo vehicle (unless mounted to it of course), but if the people want points for furniture it could be considered for v0.2. Selfy sticks though... Those need their own line for sure.

 

I put a new LED bulb in the dome light this weekend. I had a big LED bulb in there before that has been fine (better than the stock one) for years, but the light is a bit purple and the colour has always bothered me a little bit. I kind of forgot about it until I got into the truck to go to work this morning in the dark and wowza! What a pleasant surprise. It's all about the details.

 

I won this shift knob like... ?5 years? ago at Rock Therapy, but never installed it because the threads are for a manual (which is different than auto). I stumbled on the right thread adapter out of the blue the other day and here we are. It was much too high at first, so I got a die and threaded another inch or so of the shaft.

 

I'm trying to plan a new power system; any input is appreciated.

I have two main problems with the original 27F lead acid battery size/type. First, it is marginal to get the truck started in extreme cold, especially if I don't plug in the block heater (such as when I'm parked at a snowmobile trail head for a while). Second, reserve capacity is not quite adequate for family camping trips. I run a 40 quart fridge and it runs off the starting battery for a 2-3 day stay just fine, but when the voltage drops low enough to trigger the fridge low voltage cut off there already isn't enough left in the battery to start the truck. Family trips are usually in the summer when we have nearly endless daylight so there is very little need for any lighting and the only other electronics to run at camp are phone chargers. I have gone through a handful of different (but all basic lead acid) 27F batteries and had the same experience with all of them. Often denied warranty because they test fine in a nice warm shop, but can't hack it in real world cold conditions.

So I planned out this hardcore multi battery setup with isolation, solar, shore power, bluetooth monitoring, fabrication work for battery tray locations, etc.. but when I sat back and looked at it, it was too much (too much money, too much work, too much weight) for my somewhat minimal needs.

In an effort to be more reasonable I'm now looking at keeping it simple with a single high quality AGM battery (northstar 27F or 31) and a solar panel or two. Both the northstar group 27F and 31 offer large increases in CCA (930/1150 CCA vs 710 at best) and reserve capacity (91/102AHr vs not listed, but probably around 70?). The solar is to help extend summer camping trips, provide a little peace of mind, and keep the battery topped off if parked somewhere for a long time between uses. By keeping the battery from discharging as much I'm also hoping solar will prolong the life of an expensive battery. I'll also trick the alternator into giving me an extra 0.5V or so to match the recommended charging voltage for the AGM.

Do you guys think that would suit my needs? Should I be particularly worried about a 68 or 76lb battery in the stock location (stock is about 50lbs)? I've heard problems with inner fender cracking under the extra weight; has anyone come up with a good way to reinforce it yet? And do you think I should go for the 27F or the 31? 27F is slightly lighter and does not require a new battery tray or cables (so cheaper/easier), but also a little less performance.

My other thought was doing the 27F as mentioned and if it turns out to be inadequate I could add a house battery and DC-DC charger in the cab - then the extra weight is in a better spot.

I no longer like the idea of cramming two group 35s into the stock location. Total reserve capacity would be 120AH; but weight, cost, and complexity don't seem to justify the extra ~20AHr especially considering it's not really usable with the house battery isolated. I don't have anywhere else in the engine bay to fit another battery either - I have one of the models that has all stuff from the factory in the passenger side near the firewall, the supercharger coolant reservoir takes up some room, and I've added some extra breakers and a fuse box to fill up the remaining space.

 

Today I replaced the clock spring because my horn had stopped working. They're kind of expensive at around 400 CAD so I wanted to be sure it was the problem before I got stuck with another part that I couldn't return (I'm still a bit sour at myself for ordering some parts this summer that it turns out I didn't need - it made that previous project as costly as just letting the dealership do the labour... but I digress). I actually did this job twice today, the second time it took me 23 minutes including putting my jacket on, getting tools out, and pausing to take a couple photos for this post. First time felt like half an hour.

To diagnose, remove the bottom steering column cover and locate a green wire with red stripe on a black connector going into the bottom of the clock spring. Grounding that wire should set off the horn. If your horn doesn't work normally but grounding that wire works, it's probably a bad clock spring. You will be able to see that wire in some of the photos below, but you do not need to remove the whole steering wheel to find it for a diagnostic; just remove the two phillips head screws for the steering column cover and pop that piece of plastic out of the way.

Things you will need:
-Phillips screwdriver
-10mm socket
-T30 torx screwdriver or socket with an extension
-19mm socket and extension
-Ratchet
-Pocket knife, small flathead screwdriver, or trim removal tool
-One clock spring P/N 843060E010 (for second gen tacoma with steering wheel controls and cruise control)

Step 1: Disconnect your battery. You will be removing the airbag and it's good practice to disconnect the battery whenever you're touching airbag stuff.

Step 2: Use your pocket knife or other tool to pop the small covers off of the steering wheel on the left and right side. They are just clipped into place. See photo below for their location.

Step 3: Use your T30 torx screwdriver to remove the screws you just exposed. There is one on each side and they are all that hold the airbag assembly in place.


Step 4: Remove the airbag assembly. It should easily pull straight out, but there are three connectors on the back to disconnect. The black wire is just a spade connector for the horn switch. The two airbag connectors have yellow tabs that need to be lifted up to unlock them (I used my pocket knife), then they pull straight out.


Step 5: Disconnect the two white connectors at the top. The rest of the wiring stays with the steering wheel and isn't in the way. You should see the big 19mm nut that holds the steering wheel on (already removed in my photo). Loosen the nut but do not fully remove it. If you have a steering wheel puller use it, but I used the pull and wiggle method to pop the steering wheel off (as far as the loose nut would allow, but not into my chin). Mark your steering wheel and the shaft so that you can align it properly when you reassemble, then remove the steering wheel.


Step 6: Remove the two phillips head screws (already removed in my photo) and pop the top and bottom steering column cover off. The two pieces clip together but pull apart fairly easily. Note: Clock spring in the photo has an orange tab on it - yours wont. The picture is actually the new one during reassembly.


Step 7: Disconnect the three wire connectors on the bottom of the clock spring. The black connector has the green/red wire that you can ground to test the horn.


Step 8: Remove the clock spring. It is clipped into place in three spots: one at the very top and one on each side. Now you should be looking at this:


Step 9: Don't panic when the clock spring you removed looks different than the new one in your parts box (I thought I got the wrong part, put it all back together, then later realized it was NOT the wrong part and had to do the whole process again). The steering angle sensor is clipped to the clock spring and needs to be removed from the old part and put on the new one. It's the piece with the white wiring connector. There are just a bunch of small clips all the way around that hold the two pieces together.


Step 10: With the steering angle sensor moved to the new clock spring, put everything back together in reverse order. Torque spec on the steering wheel nut is 37ft-lbs. Reconnect your battery, and beep that glorious horn.

 

Cool write up man. I've been wanting to do this for a while because my cruise control only works intermittently. But I only ever remember about it when I'm actually on a long drive and want to use it haha