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Think I may need to replace Catalytic Converter on my 2003 Taco

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by JT1521, Jul 9, 2019.

  1. Jul 23, 2019 at 4:03 PM
    #81
    JT1521

    JT1521 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Should I put loctite or never-seez or nothing on the spring bolt threads?
     
  2. Jul 23, 2019 at 4:10 PM
    #82
    betterbuckleup

    betterbuckleup Well-Known Member

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    You don't really have to put either. In my experience, loctite burns off and doesn't do anything when used on the exhaust system. Especially right next to the cat where it gets stupid hot
     
  3. Jul 23, 2019 at 4:23 PM
    #83
    goldentaco03

    goldentaco03 Well-Known Member

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    Anti seize would be good, but I have a feeling you’re gonna be taking it apart again soon...
     
    koditten likes this.
  4. Jul 24, 2019 at 12:51 PM
    #84
    JT1521

    JT1521 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    One other stupid question. The gasket has 2 sides. One shiny and one composite material. I am assuming the composite side goes inside the exhaust pipe and the shiny side faces the Cat pipe?

    IMG_0791.jpg
    IMG_0792.jpg
     
  5. Jul 24, 2019 at 1:21 PM
    #85
    betterbuckleup

    betterbuckleup Well-Known Member

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    it's a crush washer so it gets squished when you tighten it all up.

    The ones I have used didn't have that "shiny" side of it. but the orientation you listed sounds right to me
     
  6. Jul 24, 2019 at 1:24 PM
    #86
    koditten

    koditten Well-Known Member

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    Reserected from the dead.
    Put the shiny side to the smoothest flange surface.

    But, yeah, it compresses and fills in the imperfection on the flange surfaces.
     
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  7. Jul 24, 2019 at 1:49 PM
    #87
    JT1521

    JT1521 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Do you place the gasket in and just push it in and it will stay? Forgive me I have not taken the pipes a part yet. I dont see a picture or video online how its done right with this type of gasket. I have seen the donut gasket videos.
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2019
  8. Jul 24, 2019 at 6:21 PM
    #88
    goldentaco03

    goldentaco03 Well-Known Member

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    Not really sure how to explain it but there’s a male pipe on the end of the cat that then goes into a “female” larger pipe on the catback. It’ll slide right over that male part and that’s what keeps it from falling out and keeps in lined up. You’ll see what I’m saying when you take it apart.
     
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  9. Jul 25, 2019 at 4:46 PM
    #89
    JT1521

    JT1521 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Is it ok to use a spinning wire brush on the end of a drill to clean the rust on the flange and pipe where the gasket is or maybe was if it is rusted out?
     
  10. Jul 25, 2019 at 4:48 PM
    #90
    betterbuckleup

    betterbuckleup Well-Known Member

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    yes, that should work just fine.
     
  11. Jul 25, 2019 at 7:19 PM
    #91
    JT1521

    JT1521 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I just thought of something. If you look at the picture of the good and bad flange I am going to have to cut both sides of the bad flange where the holes are to be able to mate the holes of the good flange to the split flange.

    IMG_20190716_181044797.jpg
     
  12. Jul 26, 2019 at 1:46 PM
    #92
    JT1521

    JT1521 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hope it doesn't fall a part when I start cutting lol
     
  13. Jul 28, 2019 at 4:51 AM
    #93
    austinsdad99

    austinsdad99 Well-Known Member

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    Literally the next day after posting the light came back lol. Been on ever sense.
     
  14. Jul 29, 2019 at 9:55 PM
    #94
    JT1521

    JT1521 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ok. So I took the rusty flange a part and the gasket was completely rusted out. Half of it was gone. However, the split flange I bought was too big. Bad measurement on my part. I thought it was a 2.25" pipe but it really is a 2" pipe. Now that is gonna be a problem because the holes on the existing flange are 4.25" center to center of the holes. The 2" version of the same split flange I just ordered is 3.88" center to center. However it is an oblong hole so there might be enough but I doubt it. Do I really need to use spring bolts as well because only the oblong holes on split flanges will allow the spring bolt to go through it and stop on the next existing hole which only allow the remaining thread of the spring bolt to go through. I am not sure what the heck to do now.
     
  15. Jul 30, 2019 at 4:26 AM
    #95
    goldentaco03

    goldentaco03 Well-Known Member

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    Have a new flange welded on
     
  16. Jul 30, 2019 at 9:57 AM
    #96
    JT1521

    JT1521 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    There were never spring bolts used on those flanges to begin with so is that even needed?
     
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  17. Jul 30, 2019 at 10:23 AM
    #97
    goldentaco03

    goldentaco03 Well-Known Member

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    No but it will keep them from loosening when the gasket compressed or the flange deforms more. Which one if not both will probably happen
     
  18. Jul 30, 2019 at 10:38 AM
    #98
    JT1521

    JT1521 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Well there is enough strong meat left to put a split flange on it if I can find one that lines up the holes with the existing flange.

    IMG_20190730_132810063.jpg
    IMG_20190730_132749646.jpg
     
  19. Jul 30, 2019 at 11:00 AM
    #99
    goldentaco03

    goldentaco03 Well-Known Member

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    I bought a weld on flange to replace my rusty one that looked exactly like that ^

    Holes didn't line up either. Ended up elongating them with a dremel and then using the welder to "fill" the inner portion of the now elongated holes. Was pretty hacky but it worked.
     
  20. Jul 30, 2019 at 11:13 AM
    #100
    JT1521

    JT1521 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I hear ya. This is the kind of split flange that was holding it together for 4 years. I am thinking the rusted out half a gasket that was left caused the major part of the leak. Before I go with your weld idea which I agree is better I want see if I can get by for a year or more using a new gasket and a better split flange.

    IMG_0833.PNG.jpg
     

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