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Thinking of buying gen2 tacoma issues to watch for

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by mcgyverdc, Apr 20, 2018.

  1. Apr 20, 2018 at 1:48 PM
    #1
    mcgyverdc

    mcgyverdc [OP] New Member

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    Looking at a 2010ish tacoma, 4x4, auto what are common issues I should be watching for?
    Thanks
     
  2. Apr 20, 2018 at 1:53 PM
    #2
    Toy4me

    Toy4me Well-Known Member

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    Frame rot would be the first thing to check.
     
  3. Apr 20, 2018 at 1:55 PM
    #3
    MattCowsmasher

    MattCowsmasher ( -_・)ᡕᠵ᠊ᡃ່࡚ࠢ࠘⸝່ࠡࠣ᠊߯᠆ࠣ࠘ᡁࠣ࠘᠊᠊ࠢ࠘

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    Your in the sweet spot there 05-06 had head gasket issues an in 12 they introduced they air pump something for emissions. 12s had issues with it 13-15 not so much..I’d keep an eye out for frame rust an the leaf springs maybe flat. Stock ones are weak but Toyota had a frame replacement ordeal An springs as well. Not totally informed about those but the Tacoma is a great truck an TW is a better community.
     
  4. Apr 20, 2018 at 1:55 PM
    #4
    DukesTaco

    DukesTaco Well-Known Member

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    Don't do it. You will spend all your free time on this site buying lifts and tires and rims and more truck stuff . Run .Save your self.
     
  5. Apr 20, 2018 at 2:08 PM
    #5
    MattCowsmasher

    MattCowsmasher ( -_・)ᡕᠵ᠊ᡃ່࡚ࠢ࠘⸝່ࠡࠣ᠊߯᠆ࠣ࠘ᡁࠣ࠘᠊᠊ࠢ࠘

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    Lifted, armored, lumenz w/ switches, positraked, long legged, big tars, debadged with a hood skewp
    So true
     
    DukesTaco[QUOTED] likes this.
  6. Apr 20, 2018 at 2:13 PM
    #6
    stickyTaco

    stickyTaco Fuck Cancer

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    The secondary air pump/smog pump is a non-issue in my opinion. If it fails, take it in for free replacement. If you're out of the warranty (which has been extended for the 2012) then perform the filter mod or delete the smog pump altogether.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2018
  7. Apr 20, 2018 at 2:16 PM
    #7
    MattCowsmasher

    MattCowsmasher ( -_・)ᡕᠵ᠊ᡃ່࡚ࠢ࠘⸝່ࠡࠣ᠊߯᠆ࠣ࠘ᡁࠣ࠘᠊᠊ࠢ࠘

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    Nice didn’t know that I’m not worried about it..I’ve had to take mine out once before to replace a AC line wasn’t bad.
     
  8. Apr 20, 2018 at 2:22 PM
    #8
    scocar

    scocar hypotenoper

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    Yeah, but wasn't the 2011 MY fucked over on this? So many guys had issues, and that TSB says 2012 MY.

    I can't remember the details, I swapped out the shitty OEM filter on my 2015 as soon as I heard about this.
    @mcgyverdc double check on this. I'd look up the threads on this site and get into more detail, but don't have time, and they are long.
     
  9. Apr 20, 2018 at 3:06 PM
    #9
    stickyTaco

    stickyTaco Fuck Cancer

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    The first year for the smog pump was 2012. The 2013-2015 had an after-run cycle that would kick on when the truck was shut off to purge the pump, which is why they are less prone to fail.
     
  10. Apr 20, 2018 at 5:55 PM
    #10
    scocar

    scocar hypotenoper

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    Ack. You're right. For some reason, I got 2011 stuck in my head, and yeah, the TSB covers the formerly-excluded-from-warranty 2012.
    @mcgyverdc
    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...eep-things-light.409330/page-23#post-14011655
    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/secondary-air-injection-system-p2440-and-p2442.370792/
    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/secondary-air-injection-switching-valve.381997/
     
  11. Apr 20, 2018 at 6:02 PM
    #11
    JdevTac

    JdevTac Bawnjourno

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    The first year for the V6 smog pump was 2012 yes...however they’ve been in 4cyl prior to that.
     
    stickyTaco[QUOTED] likes this.
  12. Apr 21, 2018 at 4:10 AM
    #12
    Undertow

    Undertow Well-Known Member

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    Keep in mind that air injection issue is now fully covered by Toyota for 10 years or 150k miles, saving everyone nearly $2000 in repairs by a dealer. Your truck must be exhibiting the symptoms of this part going bad (in other words, you pretty much have to limp into the dealership with code P2442). No longer does anyone have to shy away from a 1st year LCI 2nd gen Tacoma.
     
  13. Apr 21, 2018 at 8:10 AM
    #13
    muddog321

    muddog321 Well-Known Member

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    09 Tacoma DCSB 4wd TRD w/e-locker Pyrite Mica
    TW 1-piece driveshaft with 1310 u-joints All Pro and Budbuilt skid plates OME Dakar rear springs 3" with 5100 5100 front set at 1.75" (3rd groove up) with stock springs Falken Wildpeak A/T3W 265/70R16 2018 TRD Offroad wheels 16x7J with +25mm offset Powerstop rotors with Z36 pads and rebuilt with OEM caliper kit Complete rebuilt rear brakes drums, shoes, springs, wheel cylinders Rebuilt rear and all wheel bearings front /rear Yukon 3.73 ring/pinion rebuild Denso 130A rebuilt alternator AGM 24F Battery New OEM idlers and tensioner assembly New AC compressor New PS hose and flushed Walker SS Quiet Flow muffler Denso Iridium long life plugs #3421 (SK20HR11) OEM coolant, cap, and thermostat NAPA CV axles and new seals ECGS bushing Rhino front guard Shortened mud flaps Alziria Black Tail Lights Nilight Headlights X-Bull Traction Boards Maaco full single stage paint job 2023 Nat CV to Knuckle seals 710573 New SKF wheel bearings/hubs BR930978 in 2024
    Simply put the year in and check the TSBs on that year and that lists the main stuff kind of. Mileage dependent on repairs.
    My 2009 DCSB off road required new rear springs aftermarket and a new one piece driveshaft aftermarket to solve the spring wrap problem that coupled with the 2 piece driveshaft caused clunking/shuttering/etc and sagging towing. At 100k the rearend fell apart and both the rear and front wheel bearings. I upgraded front brakes to drilled/slotted powerstop to help slow the rear drum equipped truck down faster. You will probably need shocks on a 2010. Check maintenance records to make sure trans changed at 100k and of course coolant. Same for the diffs/transfer case fluids need to be changed. Check the headlights for daytime running area cracked burned thru and moisture. Check 4x4 ops and if an off road model with rearend locker remember it only engages in 4 Low so after you put it in neutral to go to 4 low and that light comes on then engage the locker but you may have to drive slowly turning steering wheel side to side a little so it locks. Good hunting.
     
  14. Apr 21, 2018 at 8:51 AM
    #14
    TexasWhiteIce

    TexasWhiteIce Well-Known Member

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    2010 was the best year for a Tacoma
     
  15. Apr 21, 2018 at 12:18 PM
    #15
    TACOMA2NDGEN

    TACOMA2NDGEN Well-Known Member

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    thats what i drive ...i did my research for me it was between a 2010,2011 i looked for about a month
     
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  16. Apr 25, 2018 at 10:17 AM
    #16
    mcgyverdc

    mcgyverdc [OP] New Member

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    Thanks so much for the replies. Is the frame rot a significant issue i should be concerned with? I've always done all my own maintenance on my vehicles but rust/rot is not something I want to venture into.
     
  17. Apr 25, 2018 at 10:28 AM
    #17
    kingston73

    kingston73 Well-Known Member

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    Where in the country are you? That's going to go a long way in determining whether you need to be worried about the frame. Basically anywhere in the northeast or midwest/rust belt area will either already have a frame replaced or will need one in the near future. I thought mine was in pretty good shape and it failed the frame inspection and is currently sitting on a dealer lot waiting for the next 2 months for the parts to arrive.

    If you are buying from a private seller you should ask them to have it inspected by a dealer before you buy it. If buying from a dealer TELL them it needs to be inspected before you buy.
     
    blu92in99 likes this.
  18. Apr 25, 2018 at 6:37 PM
    #18
    Hadataco

    Hadataco Well-Known Member

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    I just got a 2010 DCORSB 6spd 6 months ago. 5 more years or so left in the frame recall...been good so far. Goes through snow like a bulldozer. Check the frame, then check the frame. After that, check the frame. Oh...dash light illumination. Make sure they all light up.
     

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