Third member reseal -- tips?

The third member seal (between the member and the axle housing) on my '03 (TRD e-locker) is leaking enough that I need to finally address it.

I've already retorqued the nuts, but that didn't help. There's a bead of RTV around the edge of the third member lip that makes me think the previous owner tried to reseal it a long time ago (it's only recently started to leak again).

I have a couple questions I'd really appreciate some pointers on:

1) The parts diagram indicates that the seal is made with a gasket, but I feel like I've seen threads on here where people use RTV or FIPG instead (bonus that you don't have to totally remove the third member from the axle housing). Any thoughts on which is better?

2) Assuming that I can use FIPG to reseal it, can I just unbolt the drive shaft and third member and ease it out of the diff just enough to clean up and reseal the mating surface? Do I need to remove the axle shafts to do this? Do I need to do anything special w/ the e-locker or can I just remove/slide it out with the rest of the third member?

Basically trying to figure out the most efficient way to do this, would rather not tear apart my entire diff if I can help it.

 

I prefer RTV but that just me. I use the right stuff by permatex. Never had a leak with it. You might as well remove the diff if you're already doing the work to reseal it. Easier to clean off the old gasket and mating surface.

Lock the rear diff, remove drive shaft, slide axle shafts out a bit and remove nuts holding diff to axle housing and itll slide out. I replaced all my studs for nuts and bolts for a little more clamping force.

 

my 2 cents- get and use a OEM gasket. Cleaning RTV off the surfaces is time consuming and it sucks. Might not be an issue if you never intend on getting back in there... But if you do... plan on spending an extra few hours preping the surfaces again.

 

I did the put-a-bead-on-the-edge thing and it worked pretty well. You might just reseal that instead of the whole diff. I use FIPG, you will want the orange kind as thats the one for gear oil. I'd also check the breather to make sure its not stuff.

 

Finally wrapped up this job. A few notes:

- I ended up using a paper basket with a smear of FIPG on both sides. The old sealant (no paper gasket found) was probably done by the shop that installed the gears the PO of this truck bought. It looked like a clear silicone sealant. Very easy to remove on account of there being barely anything in there to clean up -- seemed like really thick RTV that mostly squeezed out when it was tightened.

- I had to remove the e-locker in order to get the third member to clear the fuel tank (really didn't feel like dropping the tank). No issues installing it and having it work afterward. (I did make sure to lock the diff before removing the third member -- not sure if this does or doesn't make a difference).

- I ended up just taking out both rear axles to free the third member, since I wasn't sure if just leaving them halfway out might deform the axle seals. Pretty easy to do, just remember you'll have to bleed the brakes afterward.

- Really clean off the diff before you crack into it. I spent a bunch of time chasing dirt that had fallen into the housing like an idiot.

- Breather seemed trashed/corroded and barely working -- I wouldn't be surprised if that was the reason for the leak. Got a new one and relocated it to inside the gas filler door with a hose.

- Wire harness was a bitch to unplug and I ended up breaking the plastic part around the plug part of the switch that indicates if the diff lock is engaged. Replaced it with a new Toyota transmission backup light switch -- looked basically identical and seems to work fine. Also a lot cheaper than the indicated switch part from the parts diagrams.

All in all, not terribly difficult. Wish I'd paid more attention to keeping the breather clean the past few years but hopefully this reseal will last a good, long time.