This is why you need to replace your VVT screens

Does the 2TR-FE engine (2005 Tacoma) has one?

 

Read post #39.

 

Wiggler, I got no check engine light when my VVT solenoid went bad.

 

Where are these located on the 2TR-FE?

 

wait, so solenoid or screens? I swear I lost vvt. No CEL. Start with the screens or solenoid? Or just replace both? Thanks

 

Screen is cheap and easy to inspect. If fine, move to the next piece of the puzzle.

 

I'm pretty meticulous about maintenance, my ASE/Toyota Master Tech Uncle says I over maintain, probably true, I've owned my 2010 for 3 years now and I just started getting an intermittent (comes and clears itself) CEL/DTC of p0012 of bank 1 cam over retarded.

That's how I found this thread.

So even with meticulous oil changes (I use Amsoil 10w-30 5qts and 1qt Marvel Mystery Oil and the previous owner has records for regular changes at the delaer) the screens do eventually clog.

I seem to have lost some power and milage as well I was thinking I had a day or two before the code first hard set the light so you might not be crazy.

Approaching 240k miles if anyone's curious.

I'm just going to replace them, they're cheap enough and if I replace them I can expect another 240k out of them vs cleaning and wondering.

 

Is running seafoam thru the system that useful, and recommended?

 

I change my oil when it's warm to hot and the last two times I changed my oil I added 6oz. of Seafoam, let the engine run for about 10 minutes, and then drain it. Per Seafoam's directions, you can add 1oz. per 1 qt. oil. So far no adverse reactions. I've been attempted to take for about a 10-minute ride, but have been reluctant. Any improvements would be subjective, but I feel it's more responsive. It may-be that the valve train, (VVT-i), is responding quicker to throttle response. I've also been adding about 6oz. to our 07 HHR before I change oil and let it run for about 10 minutes and again so far no adverse reactions. Both our vehicles are low mile vehicles. The HHR only has 44,000 miles and the Tacoma has about 72,000. I bought my Tacoma used with 41,000 miles about 3-1/2 years ago and currently, we usually drive my vehicle whenever we take a trip.

 

Harsh solvents like Seafoam will turn your seals and gaskets to mush.

A little more mild would be a quart of kero or (bio) diesel for 10 min at idle.

MMO can work too. Also, diesel truck oil in 10w-30 like Rotella or a high solvency oil.

I would say to maybe check the filter on the easy-to-access passenger side, and if it looks clogged, service the other one too.

 

Haha I’ve been adding half can of sea foam to the crankcase one week before oil change for years. Add the other half to the fuel tank. Can’t say I’ve had any known adverse effects. Does it help? Who knows, but I feel good about it. Kinda like when every couple months I eat one healthy meal I feel like I am super healthy now.

I swear I feel like it thins the oil and the truck runs smoother and it’ll therefore drain out more of the crap. I would never argue that this actually works, but again, it feels like it to me, so I’m happy.

 

Do you have any evidence of these mushy gaskets and seals? I have used it for over a decade as per directions on the can in the gasoline & oil. I've never had a seal or gasket turn to mush.

 

Ask Seafoam if it passes the ASTM seal compatibility test, which all motor oils are subjected to.

Their answer should be all you need.

 

Interesting

 

Wait, you drive your engine under load after thinning the oil down to an unknown visc?

Then the solvent evaporates, spreading sludge around the inside of the engine....

Although it disappears, the solvent permanently damages the oil physically and chemically....but you drive on it?

Do you feel the need to voodoo sacrifice a chicken in order to complete an oil change too?

You should look up what "fuel dilution" is in regards to motor oil, and what it does. It's something to be avoided.

I find every auto mfg owners to be in a different state of limbo with oil services. For instance, Mercedes owners are super-paranoid about even putting a non-spec oil in their engines, even if it's a HD 5w-40 that we all know works well. Never would they add some solvent, even if it NEEDED it, and certainly not for routine maintenance.

On the other end, we have Lucas Oil "Stabilizer" that people add. It's just greasy slop in a $10 jug, and contains no additives, so it waters down the existing additive pack in your oil and thickens the visc unnecessarily. Makes no sense to add thickener to a 30 weight, when you can just use a fully formulated 40 or 50 weight....if needed. The Lucas slop just sheers into muck in your engine and entrains air into a non-lubricating foam....but it "feelz good". Oh, I see....it clings to parts! Sure, a bunch of tackifier is added, but your engine design incorporates the quality of "tack vs throw" where parts of it are lubricated by oil being thrown off other parts. It is designed for it, and the oil is supposed to meet a certain criteria for it. If you actually run little plastic gears instead of a metal engine block, well ok then.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wLnpHWwu9xM



When I use an additive, I want something that does more good than harm. To me, that means something with ester content to help soothe and swell seals. Lubeguard Biotech or LiquiMoly Oil Saver or Renewable Lubes...ok if you want to make non hi-miles oil into high miles. That's about it.

 

So you don't have any evidence of Seafoam turning seals and gaskets into mush. You could have just said so.

I have all the answers I need in my use for greater than a decade...

 

Looks like @Audi Junkie is going to turn this into a Friday thread.

 

this is what happens when you never rev past 3k rpm

 

Good ol' Italian tune-up!

A red line a day keeps the mechanic away.