This is why you need to replace your VVT screens

So what about running up on 300,000 miles? Think I should check these? People still say my truck is a racecar compared to their slow pigs..

 

I replaced mine at 240k ish they were fine hardly a spec of varnish no blockages and no caught detritus.

Figured it couldn't hurt and given poor access to the left head I had pre ordered the parts and since I had them in hand and done the rest of the work I might as freaking well change them instead of putting the old ones that were still fine back in.

Oil maintenance is critical though, far as I can tell, these are effectively an engineer's attempt at trying to account for two things, unexpected failure of the bottom end being ingested by the variable cam system fubaring more parts from an otherwise salvageable engine and the other, the average mouth breather that changes their oil only every 30k and has a bad pcv valve while driving exclusively short trips in the cool humids leading to sludge and varnish clots the size of the carpathia ready to become oil pump heart attacks.

If you use top teir oil, change regularly (or according to your analyzed OCI eval), occasionally use some MMO or seafoam in the oil and a high end oil filter these should effectively never have to do anything.

If you're really curious just pull the plug on the right head and inspect the right screen, chances are the left screen is in similar condition. Save you from having to pull the alternator air conditioning pump left hand wire loom and tensioner bracket to do the left side one.

I was already changing my tensioner bracket arm and pulley so might as well.

 

I might go ahead and just have them on hand. As another I have a higher output alternator to put in at some point. I also forget what 5000 rotation my Odo B is on and may have run 15 or 20k oil changes a few times.

Luckily I have my shoes off so I could count all them big words you used

 

Dammit, y’all messing with my mind. 2 do or not to do, that is the question

 

I've yet to see one clogged, even on blown engines.

This is not normal or something to worry about.

 

simple path.....

Its not a normal maintenance item.
Keep on the scheduled oil change interval. Use correct viscosity oil of the recommended API grade or better. (see your Owner's Manual)

If you need to verify, then remove the screen on the passenger side. Inspect it, the driver's side is likely in the same condition.

If clogged, then replace both sides. Or clean and reinstall, but do both sides. Frankly, at such a low cost, one needs to question if cleaning is really a good choice versus replacement.

Personally, this coming Spring, I will inspect the passenger side. I purchased my truck used at 105+ kmiles. It had evidence of it being a farm truck with sketchy maintenance. If the screen shows signs of plugging, then I'll replace both sides.

BTW, be careful using the canned miracles. Many times, these do little to nothing for the engine. Although, they will lighten the wallet.

 

4 cylinder 2tr-fe 2.7L - in the side of the Head like the V6

 

why 10w30? you go to 6qt and not the 5.5qt?

 

I buy 6 quarts of 10w-30 and 1 quart of Marvel Mystery Oil and a

$14 Wix 51515xp XP Oil Filter

Wix 51515xp filter.

I put one quart of 10w-30 to the side, it gets added (at least in part) at 5k miles when the oil change remember light comes on I check the level add as needed then turn it off.

I do a full change every 10k, Amsoil claims 15-25k intervals are good with the oil I run and Blackstone says I probably could run a little longer but 10k is enough for me.

I pour 80% of the MMO into the oil filter and let it soak in and keep adding till the media is completely saturated then I pour the excess into the oil filler neck and quickly screw the massive filter, it has nearly a 1qt capacity itself, onto the oil cooler.

Then dump 5qts of oil into the engine.

The MMO thins out the 10w-30 a bit but is still thicker than 5w and seems to keep the lifters and valve train smoother and quieter.

Probably losing a little efficiency doing it this way but I'll take reliability and longevity over efficiency any day.

YMMV

 

Resurrecting an old thread:
I replaced both screens the other day. My Tacoma has 479,800 miles on it. My oil change intervals have been every 10,000 miles with synthetic oil.

• for both sides I was only able to break the bolt loose with a 1/2" breaker bar. 3/8" socket set up would not budge them. I could have used an impact gun but did not want to risk that.
• You can gain access for each from the fender well, using many 1/2" socket extensions. It's a 14mm socket. I removed the tires also.
• The passenger side is definitely easy to do
• The drivers side is a pain due to the alternator. I tried just "swinging it out of the way" as azzwethinkweiz suggested but it did not give enough clearance for the 1/2" swivel socket setup needed to get on the head of the bolt. Wound up dropping the skid plate, removing the serp. belt, removing both bolts for the alternator and all wire harness stuff so it could drop downward low enough for the clearance needed.
• The skinny end of the screen fits into a hole on the backside of the bolt.
• I agree with what others had said. If you change the oil every 5000 miles these should never have to be touched.
• Here is what the original ones looked like

Hope this helps someone

 

Did you replace them because of a degradation in performance or just as a maintenance item? Any noticeable improvement after install?

 

Agreed

 

maintenance and twice in the past two years I rcvd an error code having to do with the Oil control valves. I've not tried to remove the oil control valves yet and that error code has not popped up in I can't tell you how many months. Figured these were easy enough to do so I might as well.

 

5K changes... no drama
Oil is made to do more than lube, it also cleans. I change my bath water every fifth time also.

 

Any notice in performance?

 

Runs the same as it did before which is excellent

 

Caught if before it gummed up the actuators. Very good.

 

2013 2tr fe Location is just below the Vvti solenoid left side of intake manifold. May need to remove manifold to get bolts/ filter out. Very tight location for tools..

 

Did VVT replacement fix any shuddering for you guys?