Threading hard line into clutch master cylinder

Replacing my clutch master cylinder and need some help. can anyone give me some tips on how to get the hard line to thread into the clutch master cylinder? I have been battling this for 6 hours now, and im about at my boiling point as far as patience goes.

Heres the fitting im trying to get started so i can tighten it down and start the slave bleeding battle.. Please help, i am to the point where i want to just sell the truck so i dont have to fight this damn thing anymore

 

When you say you need help, do you mean the threads won’t engage?

 

Yes, the threads wont start. It acts like its going to go, and then becomes very difficult like its crossthreaded, but i dont think it is.. just looking for some tips or tricks to getting it started

 

I don’t mean to spout off obvious tips and no tricks by without being there I can’t suggest much.

Are you able to use a sharp instrument like a pick or needle to feel the female threads? Make sure nothing is blocking it or fouling up the threads on the inside?

 

No worries, any and all suggestions are welcome at this point!

I did use a razor blade to clean out the threads and everything looked good. Even used an air fitting that i have and screwed that into the old and new master to make sure the threads on the master werent the issue. Everything checked out on those, so im fairly confident that the problem is with the hard line fitting not wanting to start

 

The line has to be loose enough to allow for wiggle/ jiggle while you're hand threading to get it started. Can you loosen something farther up the line like a bracket that would allow some movement?
What about loosening the whole foot pedal assembly from the floor?

 

The line has a little bit of play but ive been leaving the bottom bolt that holds the master out (and the top one loose) so that it can move around freely while im trying to get it started. I will try to loosen a bracket that is holding the master in place and see if that helps any. Thank you sir!

 

^^^ I'm with b_r_o on this one. Got to get the angle of attack correct. The worst time I've had with such lines is thinking the are going in parallel but really askew.

 

Yeah those short little metal lines are a pain in the ass. It sounds sketchy, but if you can get the nut pretty square in the fitting try carefully tightening it with a 10 millimeter wrench and just kind of feel the resistance. If it feels like a cross threaded amount of resistance, obviously stop.

Sometimes it's straight and you're not cross threading but it just feels like it because there is some drag and it's too hard to turn with your fingers

 

Thanks fellas! Will give this a go tomorrow evening

 

From your pix it looks like the 2nd and 3rd male threads have nicks on them. This will make it hard to thread on easily. Take a small triangle file and clean those threads up. Then start screwing it on, wiggling it as you go. Needs to be almost perfectly aligned before you start.

 

You’re going to need a new line, or a new fitting nut on that line with the flare redone. The fitting “nut” has been overtightened, and is now flared out where it contacts the flare on the tubing. I hope this makes sense.

 

Yep, that flare nut end is bigger than the threads now.

 

Yeah, that's what I was thinking too.

 

Well hell.. this isn't good news. I don't know how I will be able to put in a replacement as there is basically no room to work where that hard line screws into the firewall.. Anyone have experience doing this?

 

As last resort, try using a dremmel tool to grind down the outer circumference of the over flared end so it goes into the master cylinder. Also clean up those threads. Tape up the end of the hard line and master cylinder so metal shavings don't get in.

 

Thank you for the suggestion. I may take a file, or Dremel like you mentioned, and try to knock down the edge of that flare nut just enough for the fitting to cooperate with me!

 

You might buy a new fitting and make sure that it will thread in all the way. You might have buggered up the threads when trying to reattach the line. Without the line in the fitting , it should screw right in, if there is no damage to the threads. If there is resistance, once you get the fitting started into the threads, and are sure its not crossthreaded, turn in with a wrench. If it gets harder to turn, take it back out and clean the threads of the fitting off. Take a cotton swab to clean out the threads of slave cylinder. A couple of drops of oil on the swab will help pick up the metal shavings and lube for success. Replete process until the fitting goes all the way in .
If it were me, I would use a file instead of a drummel tool to trim down the end of the line fitting. One slip with a file won't ruin your day. It will take a little longer, but not near as long as replacing the line.

 

I had a spare air bag fitting that came with my firestone ride rites, and I threaded that one in yesterday to both the new master, and the old one, so I can confirm that the Master's threads are not the issue. It is definitely related to the hard line.

I think this is a good plan. Take my time and file down the end and hopefully it will work.

 

Is the master cylinder loose? IF not then loosen the bolts up enough to let it move.