Threading hard line into clutch master cylinder

I used a small file like this and just did a little bit at a time until finally it threaded back in



Mine was a small file like the one in the image above. Definitely a tight space to work in. Remain patient and persistent, and you will succeed

 

Thanks man I appreciate it! Certainly a pain in the ass. One other thing. When you finally got it in did you have other bolts in to keep it secure or did you loosen stuff up to wiggle it around?

 

I had the bolts that held the clutch master cyl in and started, but not even remotely snug. In fact, i think i may have only put one of the bolts in until i got the hard line threaded in (just to hold it somewhat in place, but so it was still able to move around freely), and then i put the other bolt in and tightened it all down

 

Awesome thanks! I’ll let you know how it works out.. nothing like a 30 degree day with high winds to tackle this one

 

That sounds miserable. Hope you're able to get it knocked out! Good luck, let me know if you have any other questions

 

Will do thanks a lot!

 

funny I just gave up messing with mine.exact same thing.

 

Just found this thread after fighting the same line for 4 days. Fingers raw, patience and sanity lone gone. Gonna try the filing tomorrow. Thank you again gents.

 

Do you remember how much you filed it down? Been at it for an hour but my hands stopped working. Still can't get her.

 

It took a while for me to get it filed down just bc of how right the space is to work down there.. keep after it, i did it little by little but i do remember fighting it for a while

 

If it could move, I'd run it off a cliff. Thanks man. Back at Er.

 

I can relate 100%. I have never thought about getting rid of my truck, but this little project nearly drove me to it. Once you get it back on though, victory sure is sweet!

 

I just happened to find this thread after wasting an hour of my life.

I found if you leave both master cylinder bolts out it will get started by about 3/4 a turn...then you can hold the master cylinder in place with one hand while you slowly turn the nut with the wrench about two more turns....at this point put the two master cylinder bolts back in partly and tighten down the bottom bolt then snug up the line a bit, then tighten the top master cylinder bolt, then tighten down the line finally. Also I found that moving the clutch switch out of the way helps.

In regards to the rubber return line I found that the easiest thing to do was disconnect it at the master cylinder when pulling it off and then when it was time to put it back on I disconnected the entire return line from the firewall connected it to the master cylinder then thread it back up to the firewall and that worked a lot better for my large hands.

Thanks for starting this thread!

 

Great tips, thanks for posting up!

 

I just started replacing mine yesterday in 35 degree weather. Replaced the original second generation plastic master cylinder with an AISIN from rockauto and everything moved smoothly until this exact point. I can't even get that flared tip deep enough into the new part to start threading it. I'm going to pull everything out this morning and try fitting that line outside of the brace where i have more wiggle room, just to make sure it fits. If that doesn't work then I guess I bring the new part to the store and request a new line with the proper fitting while I can see it fits at the shop.

If I have to move onto filing, which bit is being filed? The flared end of the hose so the flare is "thinner", or the fat tip on the flare nut itself?

Thanks for any suggestions

 

The bottom of the nut is usually what gets spread out and deformed

 

Yeah i remember filing the outer edge of the part that spreads out on the end of the line. Take your time and do it little by little until there is just enough room to get it started.

 

Part Success! I was able to get it a few turns with my fingers, but after a turn with the wrench it gets real tight leading me to believe I'm cross-threaded. I've had it in and out three times now and can't seem to get it past this "stuck" point. Is there a chance the stock nut is a different threading compared to the new parts threading? I got an AISIN (OEM / Interchange Numbers: 3142004010, 3142004011, 3142060030, 3142060031, 3142060032)

 

I remember reusing the stock nut on the newer master in my truck. If you haven’t already, you might try leaving the bolts for the master loose and then threading in the hard line to get them to align better. I remember that being tough on mine

 

Well. Like many projects I got 99% there. All the way to bleeding the clutch. Then discovered that the hard line never sat flush to the cylinder and fluid started leaking out of the pedal. At that point there were limited fixes I could do so I was fortunate enough to have enough pressure I got it to the garage in 3rd gear. My mechanic was actually impressed i got so far. In his words "Be proud you tried, most people don't even do that".

I think that I may have stripped the flare nut or where I screwed it into. It went so smooth finger tight a few turns and then kept getting weird. But it was tough coming out of the OEM part I stopped didn't stress it.

So while technically defeated, it does feel like a win (shrug).