Throw Out Bearing Warranty Covered; Do The Clutch, too?

Hi All,

I’ve got an appointment to do a throw out bearing that is covered under warranty. I’ve got 60k on my truck. Of course the dealership wants to do the clutch while they’re in there. And they’re right that it will save me some labor costs, but it’s still $1200, on top of the throw out bearing (free). The original quote before warranty covered throw out bearing was $2200, for reference.

I got a second opinion from a mechanic who said neither the clutch nor the throw out bearing was that bad.

I’m torn between doing the clutch now for ~$1200 or waiting and paying $1800+ when it’s actually slipping..what are your thoughts?

Thanks.

 

Hold off. Free is good, for now

 

Thanks for the quick response. Middle of the road would be to say do it only if there is damage, but that’s a slippery slope, eh? I would tell them I would need to see the old stuff to keep them honest.

 

More trouble than it’s worth. I will say ( and @LeakyAC is gonna love this) buy all new ignition coils. MSD makes a good coil. Then, beat the hell out of that clutch

 

Why would it be $1200? The parts are $500 at MSRP (pressure plate and clutch disc), what's the rest for? Book time is 2.8 hours, so even if you bought a new clutch disc, pressure plate, and release bearing at full retail, and paid 2.8 hours for labour at $150 an hour, you'd still only be at $1050 for the whole job. Add in another $100-150 to machine the flywheel or pad the labour a bit if needed and you're still under their quote to replace the clutch "while they're in there?" Sounds like they're looking to make some free money today.

If it was me, unless I suspected something was wrong, I would throw a new clutch disc in for good measure and bolt it back up, but not at the prices they're throwing around!

Jeff

 

They want that price for an OEM clutch? The labor to replace the clutch should be minimal once the trans is dropped. I'd get an aftermarket clutch or source your own OEM one and bring it to them and have them install, shouldn't charge you more than $150 of labor for R&R clutch during a TOB job. At 60k assuming you know how to drive stick you are maybe 1/3 of the way through the clutch life so it doesn't need to be done but I'd slap a new one in there if you dont' want to replace yourself later down the road.

 

Yeah, thanks for the feedback. It doesn’t add up for sure..and I’m inclined to just use the dealer and the warranty for the bearing. However, I have only put 1000 miles on the truck and don’t exactly know how the previous owner treated it, so it would be nice to have a “clean slate”. I’ll try to source a clutch in time, but it’s a few days away, although I guess I can push it back. And I’ll dig into their quote a bit more.

 

When you suggest OEM, do you specifically mean an Aisin?

 

I believe Aisin is OEM for the 6 cyl and the 4 banger uses a Luk clutch. There is lots of info out there on various clutches but something tells me the 4 banger OEM had issues.

 

Ok cool, thanks much

 

2.7L trucks produced until March 2012 used LuK or Aisin clutches. After March 2012 all used Aisin.
4.0L trucks produced until June 2006 used LuK clutches. Between June 2006 and May 2008 they used LuK or Aisin clutches. After May 2008, they all used Aisin.

If I had to choose, I would choose Aisin, and I would get an OE release bearing intended for the Aisin pressure plate height: 31230-30241 (4.0L).

Jeff

 

you are a walking encyclopedia of Toyota knowledge

 

FWIW, I believe my original clutch started slipping around 95k?

It may not have too many miles left on it before it takes a dump.

 

I got my truck secondhand with 62k on it, and I'm about 180k now, still on the original clutch. I've done some heavy tows, and baked it a few times, but overall treat it pretty well. No slippage yet, though I can tell it's gonna be time for a new clutch soonish just by the feel of the friction zone. That may be a job for later this summer/fall.

Side note, this is by far the weirdest/worst-smelling clutch I've had. I've roasted plenty of clutches in my shitbox drift car days, but this one definitely punches you square in the nose when it gets even a little too hot for its liking. First time it happened, I thought my house suddenly had a terrible nasty-smelling propane leak

 

Hard to call on replacement or not... My last truck I sold after 20 years with the original clutch and brakes...

It all depends on how it was treated. Have them allow you to eyeball it when they have it out and make a choice then.

I too would challenge their prices as they already will have the transmission out. Basically the only additional work will be to unbolt the 6 bolts on the pressure plate. Then install new clutch disk and pressure plate with 6 bolts.

 

Thanks. Ok, good idea will do! Yeah. I have a feeling the previous owner did a little bit of wheeling since the front and rear diff fluid was quite dirty when I changed it out. Probably weren’t done in 60k miles..The clutch does feel good, but to be honest I don’t have much experience with bad clutches. Owned a manual Integra and a Civic previously and those clutches were ok when I sold ‘em over with over 100k miles each. Will get a good look at it, then.

 

$1200 wtf. Their not even using lube on that a.. f…….!!! Tranny is already out should be parts and maybe .5 labor to install the clutch and pressure plate.

 

Probably 1200 because they want to put a oem flywheel in it too

 

212K on my truck with original clutch/TOB. Clutch is still strong. TOB is squeaky. Run it.

 

Riiight? Really living up to their “stealership” moniker