Throwout Bearing or No?

So is my TOB fucked then? I’m getting some chirping, and it goes away when the clutch is pressed. Only 40k miles, very disappointing…

 

Sounds like a TOB to me. My FJ made it about 25k I think and needed it. It was a known issue on the 4.0/6MT combo. No idea on the 3.5/6MT on the 3rd gen though.

 

I had the same thing on a 91 civic with at least 200k miles. Drove it like that till I sold it. I’ve seen a few dudes on TW with same issue on a 3rd Gen. @tonered is one of them.

You think it’s alright to drive like that for a bit or it should be replaced ASAP?

 

Check and adjust your clutch pedal freeplay first, you might get lucky

 

Yep, TOB time. I wonder why some give up so early and some don’t. They’re all preloaded pretty much the same by the slave cylinder spring. They all spin all the time.

 

I think @bigoldbeef said his has been chirping a while….I’ve seen a few guys on FB as well who have kept on pushing it. It would personally bother me to hear it though.

 

Got any warranty? Otherwise I'd say it is up to you lol. I got mine delat with pretty quick, but I was real mad about it lol.

 

Ahh I think remember him mentioning that in the video. I’ll watch it again.

Yeah… I’m picky about the noises as well… I’m pretty disappointed to be honest, I’m barely at 40k miles. This is my first real issue.

 

I wish! I’m way out of warranty, unfortunately. But I think it’s a wear item like clutch anyway, pretty sure I read on here that’s it’s not covered by warranty.

 

Fuck man. That’s waaaay too soon.

Not happy about it at all. My ranger had zero issues with TOB at 165k when I sold it. 1st and R when truck was cold was a different story though… always been like that since I bought it at 40k.

 

Hmmmm please fill me in I’ve never adjusted my free play.

 

Hah yeah, my Ranger never had trouble and it was at 207K when I sold it. It did occasionally give me trouble getting into 1st, and when my brother’s Ranger had the same symptoms (his happened a couple years before mine), his clutch one day went straight to the floor (TOB/slave burst). Mine showed the symptoms so I bought a stock clutch but never ended up changing it before I sold it. Gifted the clutch to the buyer.

I hear ya though, I just hit 47K and 3 problems have popped up, all my first issues with the truck. Annoying. I wonder when my TOB will wear out. I wonder if my high rpm driving helps it or hurts it. Obviously the initial build quality determines the majority of the life, but I’m sure use case affects it too. Not sure how all that affects the life though. Maybe higher speeds help keep the rollers rolling smooth? Honestly no clue. I’m going to swap to the new 2024 transmission eventually and I am seriously debating putting a new clutch and TOB in there just in case….ugh.

 

I’ll post the official procedure below. I don’t think it’s going to help you, the MC is fully extended at rest and free play just ensures that the clutch pedal stopper that sets the pedal height (aka limits the pedal from going too high - this is accomplished by threading the cruise control switch up or down) isn’t pushing the clutch pedal into the MC to engage it.

Over time, as the clutch wears, the pressure plate fingers expand outward which pushes on the throw out bearing which pushes on the slave. This pushes fluid out of the slave, and that fluid has to go somewhere. In a Tacoma though, that fluid should be going up to the reservoir, essentially making the reservoir gain fluid over time. It shouldn’t affect free play.

Free play makes sure that your pedal is not acting upon the clutch at rest. If it is, then yeah you have problems. But if it was set right from the factory (and assumed to not have been touched again), it *should* be fine. YMMV of course.

Long story short, essentially you are making sure the pedal moves without doing anything to the master cylinder, just a tiny bit before it starts to push the master cylinder. If you had no free play, you could be putting load on the throw out bearing all the time and also starting to disengage the clutch as well.

 

BLtheP beat me to it for showing the free play adjustment. The adjustment I would focus on is the master cylinder rod free play which takes a 14mm and 12mm wrench to adjust. As stated, the pressure plate fingers move towards the bearing as the disk wears. I believe BLtheP and I disagreed on what happens next so i'm not gonna go there but give it a try and see if it helps.

i'm at 179'000kms and so far i'm still quiet.

My B3000 (3.0 ranger in disguise) was a hell of a truck. Put 200'000kms on it after I replaced the clutch and it was amazing. Took me through trade school and 3 additional years. It was 2wd so I have good and real bad times (almost) in the winter with it but it never let me down. I even blew up the transmission from neglecting a worn u-joint for 2 years and aside from ruining the slave cylinder I salvaged the rest of the clutch by cleaning it with dish soap and water... I was fresh out of school and too poor to buy a whole new clutch kit. Nevertheless the truck took a beating near daily and never let me down. I like my Tacoma but I only sold the ranger as it started nickel and dime-ing me with a new nuances after I replaced the last one like broken park brake cables, blower resistors, fretting abs connections, leaking power steering lines, etc. If they had a stick shift ranger in 21 I probably would of been a ranger owner instead honestly. Love the Tacoma but with what the ranger and I did it was the direction I was leaning

 

155K on my 2011, been making a slight noise since new. More obvious in the winter. No way in hell would pull the trans for a new bearing that may do the same thing, it works just fine.

 

Thanks man, I’ll give it a good read later on today.

 

Thanks man I’ll
Give her a try.

Yeah my b4000 was fantastic. I also was looking into getting a new ranger but no MT option.

 

I had throwout bearing issues on 2 mazdas. One a B4000 4x4, the other a mazda 3.

In both cases the symptoms were grinding/vibrating pushing the clutch in. Stiff clutch pedal.

In both cases the clutch was fine, but needed new TOB. Best to put new clutch in since labor is so much and clutch is relatively cheap. Making sure new TOB is part of the clutch kit.

Issue is if it is a cheap TOB prone to wear then new ones will have same issue. A third party clutch “might” have a better TOB.

 

Hm. In my case the squeaking goes away when I press the clutch in. Squeaking noise gets louder with engine RPMs when accelerating in gear.

When driving, can’t really hear it unless my windows are open and I’ve got a vehicle or a building right next to me.

I’m thinking to also try to to grease the clutch fork ball or whatever it’s called.

 

Hm. The noise is not terrible, I just don’t wanna get stranded when I go camping/fishing.

I can honestly live with the noise, as long as that little POS doesn’t grenade my tranny.