Ticking noise - torque converter, lifters, something else?

With the truck idling does the serpentine belt run smoothly or jump around? Maybe tensioner and idler pulleys going south.

 

It sounds like a “hollow” rattle in the first video. Are you sure it’s not coming from the timing cover or valve covers?

I do hear a noise.

First thing I’d do is pull the belts off and run it. See if the noise stops. Obviously you don’t want it to run long like that. Don’t let the engine get too hot.

 

Had a similar tick that matched the rpms. After looking with a flashlight at the exhaust manifold it was clear where it was coming from. New manifold and gasket and now it's super quiet and I can actually hear the radio.

 

yes. I’ll check again in a bit where it’s the loudest. Having a day with leaky washers….

 

Add oil, check valve clearances, whine could be any pulley attached. Mine was the alternator pulley

 

Differentiating between the regular ticking & this tick/rap - it's loudest, along with the whine, at the valve covers. It seems more prominent on the right, however my ps pump is whiney also, so there may be some from that. Although it's a pretty strong whine back towards the firewall, #5, I do believe. Funny how difficult it becomes with the stethoscope to pinpoint where it's the loudest. When this started, I woulda sworn it was around where the torque converter is.

 

I can't say as my exhaust is guaranteed air tight. I've been rtv'ing the flanges for years. Would an exhaust leak cause rapping & whining? (I'm changing it to rapping).

 

Idler pulley is out of the pic since I had to backshelve working on the compressor. Removed the belt. & I'm a 3.4, so no serpentine. The alternator & PS pump pulleys seem to be on the straight & narrow.

 

Ouch! I hope that's not it. I just did all that in June. Wish I had thought to do all the valve checking whilst I had everything dismantled....

 

Didn't think to check the timing cover. How long-ish can I safely run it? I'll be all weirded out, so something to go by would be good. 5?

 

The tick is the valves. The whine is likely a pulley. It's just a matter of if it's worth worrying about...which it's probably not.

 

The belt turns the water pump.
So the important thing is to watch the temperature gauge.
If you start with the engine COLD, you should have plenty of time to tell if the noise is still there or not.

 

Likely & probably leave room for other outcomes & my truck is worth it. These were not noises that were there say, a month ago, especially this "tick" (now I wish I called it something else because there's the typical tick & then there's the atypical type) so somethin's up.

 

Kinda all over the place, so back to this. My cel went on. P0505. IAC. It passed resistance & open/close tests. However, when I pinch the air assist hose closed, the engine calms down. Nice idle. The loping seems to be “in tune” with the exhaust, which also gets way better when I pinch the air assist hose.

Does this mean there is a leak? I read it’s hose to pipe, then pipe to injectors. The hose is new. Seems to be ok, so does this mean I need to open up the intake again? One of the injectors, although it sounds normal (ticking), also has an odd sound. If I could catch it on vid I would, but it’s pretty faint. Only way I can describe it is it reminds me of the minions bee-doo, bee-doo, only more like ree-yoo.

I have not taken off the belts. I was about to just take off the ps belt 1st because I think a lot of the whistling may be coming from there. Then I was going to do a vid with the hose pinched & not. However, I had changed out the actuator breather, ran the truck because I did the trans fluid (all over the place) & now there’s a watery gear oil leak, so I got a little nervous about running it.

Soooo,
1. Do I most likely have a vacuum leak
2. Fuel injector noise?
3. started a different thread for the gear oil leak

 

When my IAC was really dirty and idle very erratic I got a IAC code but seems like it has to be really bad for the ECU to throw the code. I would clean it when you get a chance if you have never done it- every time I clean mine idle goes back to spec but not for long probably because I'm not doing a thorough job. I just soaked it in brake cleaner but I think you need to scrub it.

So can you hear the tick with the stethoscope clearly, I think you said yes but not sure. Because if the tick is something external to the engine you won't hear it with stethoscope because its not a metal on metal in/on the engine.

I had a tick on completion of my head gasket replace and I could not hear at all using the stethoscope so I knew it was external and therefore not something critical in the engine. I did hear a very loud whirring and I isolated it to the AC belt idler. I replaced that but did not try the stethoscope on it again to verify although old one had a lot of friction.

 

If you pinch a hose and your idle calms down, that tells me your IAC is stuck open. That wouldn't show up from a resistance test

 

I had recently done the open/close test because of the high idle & it passed. Think I put that in my previous post. It was long, I know…. Any other possibilities? I will check it again though.

 

Check nearby on connections on the intake side of the throttle body I guess? I feel like that's a rare CEL because most vacuum issues present themselves on MAF or O2 with system lean conditions, etc. Without that thread you speak of, I can only assume there's still an issue with the IAC valve

 

I couldn't do this test because of the tool needed, however this is what made the connection to the pipe & injectors....

 

Soap and/or plug between points with your finger. Not sure, never had this issue