Tie rod end install

Here are some pics of the outer tie rod end with the Lower suspension arm, the one that was problem some. Notice the gap. When I tried to tighten the nut, it would break loose, and strip threads to some degree. I am thinking the lower control arm off my truck may be bent or damaged. I don't see any. But I am thinking best to take both units off together from the donor truck. Clean it up. Paint it. And run with it.

 

I'm in Auburn if you need a hand.

 

In the last pic, is that as far as the taper fits? It should go well past that.

 

If the parts are confirmed correct, you mentioned it was in a front end wreck earlier so I'd be leaning toward something being bent. Hopefully not the frame. The control arm would probably be the next logical place to look at since it's what the tie rod connects to.

 

I would suspect the lower ball joint assembly before the entire lower arm, as the tie rod stud/post is not fitting into the corresponding hole in the LBJ. It's hard to believe it would be deformed that much though.

At this point, I'd be inclined to get some calipers on the tie rod stud, and LBJ hole and compare those too stock, or better yet, just get Toyota OEM LBJ and TRE. Fit the two together at the parts counter.

 

I am not having much luck with parts off the donor. I don't like re-using 18 year old rusty parts that already have 150k miles of use. I think I would need to use the pickle fork, or separation tool for the ball joint. This usually mucks it up. I was hopeful I could back the nut off until it is even with the end of the bolt, protecting the threads enough to give it a wack with my hammer to separate it, but no luck with that. I opted to order a new tie rod end and ball joint. I intend to inspect these very carefully for fit before installing. Should be here Friday.

 

Try using a Pitman puller if you have one, usually works for me without destroying the part

 

The wreck last July hit the drivers side wheel. Most everything has been replaced on that side. Even a repurposed coil spring bucket. It hit hard enough to slightly bend the inner tie rod end on the passenger side, the part the outer screws into on the passenger side. I have replaced that inner. It must have bent the ring that the other end of the tie rod end attaches too. No amount of asking questions here can help with that. I am somewhat embarrassed I even asked. I didn't see any damage then or now. I didn't know this when I posted. I still don't know for sure, just a likely guess. If the ring the ball joint fits into was bent to a slightly different angle, maybe that's the reason it wouldn't fit right. In any case, I have ordered new parts to make sure.
I just hope that a wack that hard didn't damage the steering unit, the rack, or other major parts.

 

Oh that's right I remember your thread about the coil bucket replacement

yeah with any kind of accident it's hard to know what all might have been affected by the force of the impact as it worked its way through the truck.

 

Is that damage, or debris?

 

Ya know- taking a second look at this photo... are you sure it's supposed to go in further than that? The boot looks like it can easily extend to touch the LBJ, and it looks like you could get the castle nut on with the pin through it.

 

Hard to say. It could be damage from me taking it off. That is the original TRE. That looks typical of the damage I inflict with my pickle fork, or separation tool. I DO need to get me one of those pitman pullers, so i can avoid that and re-use the part if I need to. This IS a wonderful learning experience for me!

 

O'Reilleys and other parts stores will have them available to check out for the day, also Harbor Freight sells them for like $15...probably not much more at a regular hardware store.

 

could always try using a wire wheel cone/cylinder and clean up the inside where the post goes through, worth a shot

also saw this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6i-DzSwnHsQ

 

Nice video. I wish mine had gone that smooth. It is a good reference.

I actually considered a rat tail file. Maybe I could have honed it out a little. But tolerances are so tight. It seems like inviting problems sooner rather then later. Best to replace the problem parts with new. I should have a new outer TRE, and ball joint Friday. I'm a believer in doing it right once, or at least I try too.

 

Installed a new Moog steering knuckle, along with used lower suspension arm from the LF side of the donor truck. I tried the new moog outer tie rod end for fit, but did not tighten it down because, I watched a Timmy the toolman video over the weekend (God bless Timmy) on TRE replacement. I learned some things. Like to count the number of threats sticking out on both sides, to get them even. And, That the inner TRE has a washer configured to act as a stop. To keep it from unscrewing. Like a cotter pin in function. I had never heard of such. I want to put a wheel back on that side for safety, and remove the clamp that holds the rubber boot, so I can secure the outer TRE with the washer. After that, I will secure the outer TRE to the steering knuckle. I don't know if I can reuse the boot clamp. It seems like a tight tie-wrap, or even a regular hose clamp might do the job. After that I've got to try to adjust my toe-in. At least good enough to drive to body shop, where the frame machine is, and alignment shop.
Outer TRE seems a good fit now.

 

I've reused mine multiple times. Zip tie will work, I'd stay away or be careful with the worm drive hose clamps, they tend to cut into the material.

 

I think I was up to my 3rd new TRE. Sure enough. It started turning before I could tighten, and not much pressure at all! Anyone who takes time to read all this, here is the final solution. IMPACT WRENCH! That did the trick, and tightened the castle nut when other wrenched won't. Be careful. It is easy to over tighten where the nut goes past cotter pin hole, and leaves a gap.
Cheers