Tilton Engineering: Hydraulic Release Bearing Conversion Kits (Adapted for +2005 6MT Tacomas)

Hey @BillDaCat8 , I really appreciate you guys following up on this. I see there are links for both 60-612 and 62-6122 and @Kasbien calls out to buy just one or the other. I'm looking to verify if both are needed or if they are both the same piston and only one needs to be purchased. 62-6122 is MUCH cheaper so that is what has me thrown off. I'll obviously go with that one instead of 60-612 $246.50 if only one or the other is needed. Thanks again

 

60-612 is for the whole Tilton unit.

62-6122 is for the Tilton piston.

You require one of each. Part numbers are similar but the parts are very different.

 

Hey @Kasbien , I've sent a dm to you to purchase one of your kits for the Tilton HRB. Whenever your able to ill get the payment sent ASAP! Also just want to say thank you to both you and @BillDaCat8 for all the work you guys have put into this!

 

Apologies for the wait. Just got back to ya.

 

A one way, i.e. out, to release any pressure, provides a possible negative pressure inside the diff. Possibly aiding lip seal "tension" and limiting lubricant expression.

A closed volume, like a diff, that "breathes" always condenses moisture. Out in the warm daytime during use, and humid air IN during the cooling night.

Result is "frothy fluid".

I've got a very old tractor (1950 Fordson) that I drain the water out of the engine oil sump before every use. (infrequent that that is) Crack the drain plug until engine oil flows. The water is on the bottom!

 

are you saying only run out
Because the rest of my breathers are in/out and fine

I don’t think thick gear oil is gonna try to be leaking out a good seal

the way I see it, in/out is to allow for venting sucking in, in the event of the diff hitting cold water such as in a water crossing
To prevent the diff from sucking water in through the seals during such event and contaminating the fluid

 

If the seal is working, i.e. containing diff lubricant, it will also prevent water from passing, even if the pressure differential is nominally negative. In fact, negative internal pressures will draw in the axle seal more tightly.

It's the moisture in the air, day after day after day, that contaminates the fluids.

eta even that moisture will be partially expelled during a long drive when everything gets hot! ;-)

 

id love that to be the case but given the amount of contaminated diff fluid after water crossing threads out there I don’t know

engine yes. Because it’s got thin oil, big, moving, around 200degF operating temp with a PCV system suctioned from the intake that gives and forces a path for moisture to leave with a long enough drive
engine has fuel combustion heating it while diff does not

 

It would be interesting to put a temp probe in a diff to see what is the actual case.
They don't make multi-vis diff fluids for nothing.

 

Been following this whole TOB disaster thing thread from the sidelines. My son has been living it real time. At first this TOB "upgrade" was the greatest thing since peanut butter on sliced bread. It started with an expensive install then lasted days before leaking. Removal, battle for replacement. Just got a seal. Wrong 2nd seal, do again... This 3rd fresh seal... made a round trip from Ca. to Ohio - thru luck alone -. In Texas the transfer case gutted itself and had to be changed (I know not related) onward to Ohio and back. It sat back home a short while after but blew out on the 2nd start up. I've driven better engineered Pinto's.

My 08 6speed still "squeeks" but I'm waiting for the stainless steel collar thing first.

IMO the wrong item has been addressed from the start. Unless you have a masters degree in Rube Goldberg rocket science, you'll release an atom bomb of financial ruin on your self and all within a 500 mile range.

 

what SS sleeve?

Is the Tilton TOB not a fix? Hopefully it is.
That or a whole other trans, at minimum - which is very hard to justify given it shouldn't have been done wrong in the first place

had an "unreliable" Audi. High miles.
Turbo motor, heavy car using steel, pushing fulltime mechanical AWD.
Beat the shit out of it. 0 issues with any part of the clutch system ever.
Single mass flywheel for them is cheap. Doesn't come with an accumulator. Sleeve is a replaceable wear item to change during a clutch job for like $20 held on with 3 bolts.
Same thing with everything else. Want to put a new fork in there during a clutch job because that's a good idea? Cheap.
Unlike Toyota. Awfully proud of the fork. $200+ alone I think. Probably $5 to make.

I can understand getting a Tilton, but not a whole nother trans for $2k+
at that point probably time to get an auto Lexus V8 that actually makes a power for the MPG tradeoff and has more features than a seatbelt

maybe there's only one way to find out. To try the Tilton setup in an RA60F and see what happens.

 

I started following this thread way back. Admittantly it is hurtful to the soul so I just skim over most of the casualties. I've most likely missed any redeeming updates... Anyhoo...

Within my 4 walls there has been chatter of a latest and greatest ultimate fix. It's either a removable ss sleeve or complete collar replacement, not sure. Like you're Audi Ive changed a few input collars mostly on the Ford ZF 6 speed. EZ peezy. The Toyota however... The truck now is growing roots on my backyard rv pad. Although this misadventure included a professional transmission rebuild (while you're doing it thing), it had to be pulled again for another tear down fix. Shame on Toyota for such a poor design. I think I'll install a Chavy trans and rebadge this truck a Toy o let

 

what I just realized
which who knows maybe I'm wrong to think this
but it looks suspicious I don't see 2nd gen anymore on CM website

and, it seems secretive in terms of parts

whereas Tilton website, shows the parts, calling it a bearing
It is a bearing. It spins. Wears like anything else.
My interpretation is Tilton is aware of that, and provides that for sale to replace being open about it, not secretive or hard to get or figure out...

look at all these parts

https://tiltonracing.com/product-ca...elease-bearing/hrb-service-parts-accessories/

I did see wear on the bearing of my CM last time I had the trans out to change flywheel

 

Clutch Masters still has the 2nd gen clutches and hydro bearing on their site

https://clutchmasters.com/i-30500975?q=

 

Ahh my possible apologies to Hillton. I just got a pm asking about which conversion... clutch masters or Hilton? This whole thing stinks of residual stress and financial ruin caused by bad design, one after another. MAYBE.

My sons crappy set up was the first design. The clutch masters, if I'm not mistaken.

Will the second bandaid stop the bleeding? Or is the problem ultimately the soft metal the gold plated TOB effortlessly glids on?

 

No Clutch Masters garbage here and no bearings traveling along cast alloy shafts anymore either. So far so good.

 

Ive had the Kasbien setup in for around 8 weeks. I drove it from Tn to Fl the second week I had it. Very robust setup, feels great, and functions well so far. I removed the clutch masters unit. The clutch master was under built and noticeably smaller than the tilton pieces and was extremely inconsistent pedal feel. I’ve noticed no variation on clutch feel with the new setup at all.

 

that’s motivating.
Got the truck to operating temp and found a parking lot to adjust pedal on CM. Day later it’s already changed…

 

My CM unit lasted longer than most. But it was always inconsistent.
I have to say CM customer service was some of the worst I’ve dealt with. I’ll never buy from them again.