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Timing belt help please.

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by cbull, Jan 5, 2020.

  1. Jan 5, 2020 at 8:44 AM
    #21
    CS_AR

    CS_AR Well-Known Member

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    Everything but the driveshaft. B03A - 410
    Did you pull the pin out of the "pin hole" as shown with the arrow to release the tensioner.

    The tensioner is spring loaded and pulls out the slack when released.

    Did you install a new tensioner or are you reusing the old tensioner?

    The belt should be tight like you see in the picture when the tensioner has been released.

    upload_2020-1-5_10-36-42.jpg
     
  2. Jan 5, 2020 at 8:44 AM
    #22
    cbull

    cbull [OP] Active Member

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    I wondered that myself, seems like something's not quite right but maybe I'm being a little more precise then others and maybe there's a fraction of wiggle room. With everything lined up in the four photos I posted above, the tensioner is tight and the belt all the way around is tight. It all seems good now except the marks don't perfectly lineup. Either I can get the cam marks to line up perfectly or I can get the crank Mark to line up perfectly but not all three treated but again the belt is tight all the way around.
     
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  3. Jan 5, 2020 at 8:45 AM
    #23
    CS_AR

    CS_AR Well-Known Member

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    Everything but the driveshaft. B03A - 410
    Where did you get the belt?
     
  4. Jan 5, 2020 at 8:45 AM
    #24
    Thatbassguy

    Thatbassguy Sweet or sour?

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    Based on these pictures, it looks like everything is lined up pretty good.

    Agreed. Why is the belt loose? That is definitely a problem.
     
  5. Jan 5, 2020 at 8:48 AM
    #25
    Thatbassguy

    Thatbassguy Sweet or sour?

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    Can you get a picture of the whole front of the motor? It's hard to tell what's going on.
     
  6. Jan 5, 2020 at 8:51 AM
    #26
    cbull

    cbull [OP] Active Member

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    To answer your question the pin is not yet pulled. But the belt is equally tight. It might be a tad loose on the tensioner side but once I pull the pin that will fix any of that.
     
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  7. Jan 5, 2020 at 8:59 AM
    #27
    cbull

    cbull [OP] Active Member

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    The belt was in a complete kit that I bought off of eBay from air cabin man. I have checked the Belt part number with several other internet websites and they all confirm that I have the correct belt.
    Looking at the pictures the belt is still loose because I did not tighten up the tensioner until after.15782435258344102113451900918029.jpg
     
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    #27
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  8. Jan 5, 2020 at 9:06 AM
    #28
    CS_AR

    CS_AR Well-Known Member

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    Everything but the driveshaft. B03A - 410
    You are using the same kit that thousands of members use. Pulling the pin will allow the tensioner to pull out any slack in the belt.
     
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  9. Jan 5, 2020 at 9:09 AM
    #29
    cruiserguy

    cruiserguy Well-Known Member

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    CS_AR has it nailed for you cbull. You're good to go. That tiny bit of slack will be gone when you pull the tensioner pin and give it a couple revolutions.
    Nice job man, that's not some easy peasy job to do. Love a good DIY story:D:cool:
     
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  10. Jan 5, 2020 at 9:14 AM
    #30
    Empty_Lord

    Empty_Lord Toyotaholic

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    Too many trucks and mods to list.. check builds
    general rule of thumb with these belts is the marks on the belt. line them up. the ones on the pulley to the engine can be just close.. when you go to rotate everything once its tight use the engine marks to make sure its in time.
    i do all my belts going off the timing belt. havent had one out of time yet
     
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  11. Jan 5, 2020 at 9:16 AM
    #31
    cbull

    cbull [OP] Active Member

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    Thanks for all your guy's help, it really wasn't that bad of a job thanks to some YouTubers out there. My only real hiccup is Ben these marks don't perfectly line up but other than that everything seems fine. I will put it all back together and see what happens.
     
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  12. Jan 5, 2020 at 9:18 AM
    #32
    cruiserguy

    cruiserguy Well-Known Member

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    Trust this guy cbull. He does this for a living at Yota stealership service dept. I mean trust us too. :D But I think you've had the belt in place and knew what you were doing, just being cautious. Rightfully so
     
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  13. Jan 5, 2020 at 9:19 AM
    #33
    Empty_Lord

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    just make sure the crank one hasnt moved before you pull the pin. thats the one that forwhatever reason i almost always manage to knock a tooth over when getting the uppers on

    arrows out, point to the dot on the crank, arrows on the top point to the mark on the cam pulleys. if theyre there (the left looks close enough) your fine
     
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  14. Jan 5, 2020 at 9:50 AM
    #34
    cruiserguy

    cruiserguy Well-Known Member

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    I'm sure you get tired of it eventually just cause repeating etc, but you don't know how peace inducing to the DIYERS, like me and the OP and most of us here, but such peace of mind to have an actual real life day to day technician chime in and let us know that it looks good/correct and looks like we're doing it right etc. Seriously man. May not seem like big deal to you but I assure you that when you do, it gives huge confidence to all us hobby or part time Toyota brothers :D
     
  15. Jan 5, 2020 at 9:53 AM
    #35
    Empty_Lord

    Empty_Lord Toyotaholic

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    Too many trucks and mods to list.. check builds
    i try to offer help where i can. honestly i enjoy doing timing belts. lol

    once you pull the pin, rotate the engine twice (cams are 1 full rotation to every 2 crank rotations) and check that the timing mark on the crank is TDC and the marks on the cams line up with the notch in the backing plate and your good to go
     
  16. Jan 5, 2020 at 9:56 AM
    #36
    cruiserguy

    cruiserguy Well-Known Member

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    You're good man. You definitely do help out. Guess I was just saying thanks, and I know me and the homies here all appreciate you and your info and help and experience
     
  17. Jan 5, 2020 at 9:57 AM
    #37
    Empty_Lord

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    Oh. before i forget. Once you rotate the engine by hand, the timing marks on the belt wont line up to anything anymore. ignore them
     
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  18. Jan 5, 2020 at 10:11 AM
    #38
    TWJLee

    TWJLee Well-Known Member

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    Couple weird questions maybe relating to this job:
    1:Is it ok to start to the engine for a few moments making sure it runs w/o adding the coolant and all? (Like 20-30seconds, Cleetus Mcfarland does on occasion YT) because it would suck to put it all back in running order the first time doing this and have to take it all apart to adjust-

    2: Easy removal of the crank bolt after testing the clockwise rotation so everything lines up?
    ..use old one probably to test, then assemble new one torquing it at 217lb once it is good?
     
  19. Jan 5, 2020 at 10:23 AM
    #39
    cruiserguy

    cruiserguy Well-Known Member

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    Yeah you're fine without filling all the way. I'd prolly at least fill the block up, you know the internal engine side and stuff. Can fill radiator and stuff after you know you got everything lined up and tested.
    I wouldn't put the crank bolt to 200 lbs to test it. I haven't replaced the crank bolts on the timing belt jobs I've done. :anonymous: I haven't done a 3.4L Yota, but the Honda V6s and Yota 4s and V6s I've done, I reused them. I didn't notice they were torque to yield, fancy name for 'use once only'
     
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  20. Jan 5, 2020 at 11:39 AM
    #40
    Styx586

    Styx586 Well-Known Member

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    FYI IIRC the torque spec was updated to be more than 217 at some point. My old manual said it was 217 but someone told it Toyota increased it to 260ish. Hopefully someone can chime in with the actual number...
    Edit: my bad, 217 is the updated torque. Used to be 184.
     
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