Timing belt project

Along with the @Timmah! videos, I also found that the write up by @turbodb was helpful too. He has a list with part numbers (and links) for the specialty tools that can be found here...

https://adventuretaco.com/yes-were-...belt-and-more-in-two-trucks-at-the-same-time/

You can probably rent some, but as stated before, you also might drop in to your local TW area page and see if anybody has some you can borrow.

 

Lots of good advice from our members here in this thread. I'm going through the process here today. Pictures from late yesterday on items I'm noting.

1) As soon as I removed the crankshaft bolt, I sprayed a lubricant named CorrosionX around inside the area behind the bolt as shown in the picture. I think it helped make pulley removal easy. The scratches on the crankshaft pulley came from attempting to use a multi-purpose OTC tool to lock crankshaft pulley. I don't think the Schley tool would have that problem.

Get an early start on locating the Schley crankshaft tool if you decide to go that route. I had difficulty finding a seller with the tool in stock a few weeks ago. Schley had none in stock at the time. I gave up on that purchase.



2) The belt tensioner pulley is held on with a 10mm hex driver. I already had a set of metric hex drivers. Some people may not have this tool.



3) Lowering the tensioner pulley and removing the tensioner made removing the belt easy. No cutting required.



4) With the tensioner removed, the belt was loose for removal.



5) I will be spending time today prepping the water pump mating surface. I like my gasket mating surfaces to be as smooth as glass. I sprayed the surface area last night with CorrosionX to let it soak before I start on it today.

 

You are lucky to have done it with the motor removed. The timing belt tensioner is kind of a bitch to get to when installed in the truck. OP will want a 1/4" drive swivel adapter, some extensions and a ton of patience to do it with the motor installed.

 

Here's the quick breakdown from when I did mine (also in the what have you done to your Tacoma first gen thread...)

Got started on the timing belt and water pump. Got the aircabinman kit...



Getting started...


Grill removed for radiator access...

Radiator/shroud removed...


Fan clutch assembly and belts removed...


Upper cover and fan bracket removed. Looks like the water pump was starting to weep a bit. Got to it just in time...





Got the crank pulley and lower timing cover off...


Tensioner, timing belt and water pump removed and surface cleaned...



Cam pullies and rear timing cover removed...


Water pump mounted...


Rear timing cover, cam pullies, idler pullies and tensioner in place...


Fan bracket, fan assembly, drive belts and timing cover installed...


Radiator, shroud and hoses installed. Coolant added/burped and ready to go...

 

Beautiful.

 

This morning I installed the seals. I had to make a run to Lowes and purchase a "high tech' tool for seal installation that cost $1.28. I put the seals in the freezer so they would contract and be easy to install. Then I put a thin film of red grease on the head opening so the frozen seals would slide into place without much pressure. I was able to install the crankshaft seal using only my fingers. I could get the cam seals on 1/2 way with my fingers. Then I had to finish those using the "high tech" tool from Lowes.

Pictures.

Seals installed.



Lisle Seal puller tool in action. This little tool did the trick.



Cleaned out the seal mounting area and checked for any sharp places on the surface to avoid tearing the new seal.



Applied a thin film of red grease (any would have done) with a Q-Tip to the seal mounting area. The seals were frozen before installation.



I could get this far by only using my fingers to press in the seal. The "high tech" installation tool helped finish off the installation.



Here's the "high tech" tool in action. It just took a few light taps to seat the new seal.



Information about the Lowes PCV cam seal installation tool.



Cam seals installed.



Crankshaft seal installed. This pressed in with my fingers.



Toyota part numbers in case there are any questions.



Back to the garage to finish the job.

 

a knife?

 

I briefly thought about cutting off the belt. The real question is, what do you do to reinstall the new belt. Won't get very far without removing the tensioner.

 

You should ALWAYS replace the tensioner. More likely to fail than the belt.

 

Then what is the advantage of cutting the belt?

 

none. I don't see the need for a 'special' tool to remove it was my original point.

edit: unless the 'right' tool was just a socket. I got the feeling you thought the tensioner needed to be compressed to remove it. It doesn't.

edit 2: Ah ok your just referencing the tightness of going through the A/C bracket.
yea, wobble extension but 3/8" fits fine also. Just has to be long enough. I think it's covered in the sticky on the subject.

 

Sounds like we were saying the same thing, just wasn't sure why a knife would be the way to go. I ended up coming from beneath, near where the harness sits in front of the oil pan and there was almost no way I could get a 3/8" up in there.

 

i wasn't reading the whole thread. just the last couple of posts.

 

LOL not a knife, but no clue what the trick was. Happened 12 or 13 years ago

 

I found this link to torque specs helpful today.

 

Just caught up on this thread and perhaps I may have missed someone else previously mentioning it...

Be sure to pick up a new crankshaft pulley bolt. Those babies are "torque to yield" - basically meaning one time use.

The kit I bought on ebay from Aircabinman - while pretty comprehensive - did not include it. Other kits linked in this thread appear to also not have it as part of the kit.

 

Nah, it's pretty hefty. Somebodies pullin' your toe.
That's why it's not in any kits.

 

Is that right? Could've sworn I've seen other people mention it in other threads/sites... Maybe I'm thinking of a different bolt.

 

There is a lot of misinfo. here.
I have a lot myself.


TQ ti yields are usually obvious though. A skinny strip of steel in the middle.

 

Sharing some items from this afternoon.

Prepped the block surface for the new water pump and gasket.



Right cam aligned on the mark.



Left cam aligned on the mark.



Crank reference aligned on the mark.



Give me slack!

Actually, I had sufficient slack to put the belt over the crankshaft pulley and the idler pulley. The trick to getting the extra slack is with the belt being secured to the pulleys. Then I turned the pulleys in opposite directions so the belt would be tight around the center (green) idler pulley.



With the belt tight around the center (green) idler pulley, there enough slack for wrapping the belt around or behind the lower pulleys.