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Timing Belt Tragedy!! Need some help through this mess please

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by DsTacosminenow, Dec 30, 2022.

  1. Dec 31, 2022 at 12:41 PM
    #21
    MikeWH

    MikeWH Well-Known Member

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    seeing as it’s rare to actually break a timing belt…if the cams are really hard to turn…it’s possible some carnage happened under your valve covers that locked up a sprocket and made belt break. I hope not! But I would investigate before you started rebuilding…


     
    Superdave1.0, Kiloyard and wilcam47 like this.
  2. Jan 1, 2023 at 2:20 PM
    #22
    DsTacosminenow

    DsTacosminenow [OP] Member

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    Kiloyard and ArizonaBrian Nailed it!! Thats exactly what they're doing. The cams spin until a certain point in which it gets harder to rotate then KA Chunk it spins over! so i should be good! Thanks again to all of you for everything.

    and yeah i'd rather over think a job like this rather than the alternative. This is the kind of stuff i would call my dad with and he always laughed at me before schooling my dumbass!
     
  3. Jan 11, 2023 at 4:00 PM
    #23
    DsTacosminenow

    DsTacosminenow [OP] Member

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    Ok so here is where i am at now. i finished the timing belt job but it will not start. so now its a crank no start, i pulled it apart again thinking maybe i didnt have it timed properly. well it was still timed correctly. put it back together for the 2nd time making sure all is well along the way. so im again at a loss of what to do next. i googled "crank no start after timing belt replacement" and the results were shocking. almost everything said the motor was damaged when the timing belt failed. it said that the valves would have been contacted and bent beyond repair. which is causing the no start.
    when i attempted to start it, it sounded normal except not starting. it sounds like it not getting spark to me. but i have no clue at this point. just trying to figure this out as fast as possible and without breaking the bank. any help is much appreciated. thanks
     
  4. Jan 11, 2023 at 4:18 PM
    #24
    ArizonaBrian

    ArizonaBrian Well-Known Member

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    Check for spark. Check for fuel. Compression test. Make sure your cam and crank sensors got plugged back in. How did the reluctor wheel look when you had it off? Any broken teeth from the timing belt failure?
     
    Wulf and DsTacosminenow[OP] like this.
  5. Jan 11, 2023 at 4:26 PM
    #25
    tw0leftskis

    tw0leftskis Well-Known Member

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    Did you aligned the cam gears and TB crank Pulley correct orientation?
     
  6. Jan 11, 2023 at 4:33 PM
    #26
    DsTacosminenow

    DsTacosminenow [OP] Member

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  7. Jan 11, 2023 at 4:42 PM
    #27
    DsTacosminenow

    DsTacosminenow [OP] Member

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    Reluctor wheel? the crank sprocket?
     
  8. Jan 11, 2023 at 5:38 PM
    #28
    Kiloyard

    Kiloyard Road Warrior

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    It could be something as simple as a sensor not plugged in (here's hoping). It has happened to me when I forgot to plug in the MAF one time. Did you do any work on the top of the engine or did you only work on the front?
     
  9. Jan 11, 2023 at 5:49 PM
    #29
    DsTacosminenow

    DsTacosminenow [OP] Member

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    only worked on front, crank and cam sensors are plugged in
     
  10. Jan 11, 2023 at 5:55 PM
    #30
    Clearwater Bill

    Clearwater Bill Never answer an anonymous letter

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    Just to double check.....

    With cams set and locked so all valves in #1 cyl were closed, then the crank was rotated so the piston was TDC, the timing mark was aligned properly, then the belt was installed to tie it all together?
     
  11. Jan 11, 2023 at 5:57 PM
    #31
    tw0leftskis

    tw0leftskis Well-Known Member

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    Wires to the sensors are still in tact?
    Wires tend to break right at the sensor.

    Next would be to do a compression check.
    Hook up a battery jumpe while doing the test. So it doesn't drain the battery while cranking.
     
  12. Jan 11, 2023 at 6:42 PM
    #32
    DsTacosminenow

    DsTacosminenow [OP] Member

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    Exactly! did it twice actually because i doubt myself i guess.
     
  13. Jan 11, 2023 at 8:01 PM
    #33
    ArizonaBrian

    ArizonaBrian Well-Known Member

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    The reluctor wheel is the back part of the crank sprocket that the crank sensor reads. It's thinner than the gears on the actual crank sprocket and are more likely to get damaged during timing belt failures when belt pieces get wrapped up where they shouldn't.
     
  14. Jan 12, 2023 at 6:50 PM
    #34
    Kiloyard

    Kiloyard Road Warrior

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    Hey @DsTacosminenow did you do this? If all you did was align the mark on the crank pulley to 0, there's a 50% probability you had the #1 cylinder at the top of the exhaust stroke rather than top of the compression stroke (Top Dead Center). This would cause your engine not to start.
     
  15. Jan 12, 2023 at 10:04 PM
    #35
    ArizonaBrian

    ArizonaBrian Well-Known Member

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    There is no exhaust stroke without the timing belt on. All you have to do is align the marks and your good.
     
  16. Jan 12, 2023 at 10:14 PM
    #36
    Kiloyard

    Kiloyard Road Warrior

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    Hmm, I have to admit I feel kinda silly right now. You're right, of course.
     
  17. Jan 12, 2023 at 10:15 PM
    #37
    ArizonaBrian

    ArizonaBrian Well-Known Member

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    It's an easy mistake. Been there, done that. ;-)
     
  18. Jan 13, 2023 at 3:33 PM
    #38
    MikeWH

    MikeWH Well-Known Member

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    If you have/have access to a scope, even a cheap one, you can verify crank and cam position sensor by probing the right pins at the ECU behind the glovebox. If either are bad signals, check sensors and the harness (common for the wires to break at the connector bushing)
     
  19. Jan 13, 2023 at 10:21 PM
    #39
    mechanicjon

    mechanicjon They call me "Jonny Stubs"

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    Rent a compression tester from Autozone and check compression. That will determine if its timed correctly.
     
    Superdave1.0 likes this.

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