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Timing Belt & Water Pump replacement sticker shock

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by supra92, Jun 10, 2014.

  1. Jun 27, 2014 at 2:00 PM
    #21
    Yetimetchkangmi

    Yetimetchkangmi Well-Known Member

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    $900 for a timing belt change seems reasonable to me, but then again, I am coming from an Audi RS6 where timing belt changes are every 40k miles and can range between $2100 to $3500 depending on where you have the service performed (indy or stealership)
     
  2. Feb 4, 2019 at 1:34 PM
    #22
    Trowbocop

    Trowbocop Adventurer

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    Sub'd for my upcoming project. Thanks for the links. Definitely helpful!
     
  3. Feb 4, 2019 at 1:46 PM
    #23
    1997tacomav6

    1997tacomav6 V6 5sp,RegCab,TRD Supercharger,Haltech,meth, 750k

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    97 reg cab, v6 5sp 300hp supercharged, Methonal Injection, 750,001 plus miles, Original Owner
    V6 5sp,RegCab,TRD Supercharger, 1.9” pulley, methanol injected Haltech ECU, AC TRD supercharger,(MUST DO) TRD supercharger ported, every 125,000- 150,000 needs rebuild Projector headlights HID 5 speed manual Amsoil for all drive train Smaller 2” pulley, (MUST DO) 2004 DESNO fuel injectors, zero ping ping, 2004 side door mirrors Dick Cepek Rims, Michelin tires LTX, ( that last 100,000 miles) Now running Dynopro ATM mud and snow tires KN cold air intake Cat back exhaust with ss exhaust tip, Raised exhaust tail pipe to 2" below body line Optima*dry cell battery,red top Alpine sirius radio, 200 watt amp, focal is165 split door pod speakers Focal door speakers Subwoffer behind seat Viper alarm, Electric Locks Dark tinted windows, bucket seats corbeau lg1 Tacoma Rubber floor mats TRD fender extenders, Bilstien shocks, King shocks nerf bars, add a leaf for rear springs trailer iv hitch, electric brake control, Drilled slotted brakes, High carbon steel (MUST DO) EBS green stuff 7000 series pads(MUST DO) TRD engine oil cap TRD stick shift, Marlin crawl shift kit. Rear sliding window 2002 4Runner functional hood scoop cut into Tacoma hood, 4Runner dual overhead map light Gentex Auto dim + Compass + Temp, garage,rearview mirror Snow Methonal kit stage 2 Custom 3 core aluminum radiator Linex bed liner Haltech stand alone ECU, Intake supercharger gauge. Stainless steel brake lines, Custom leather wrapped steering wheel,
    I would go buy all OEM parts which should be around 500 max and have them install and do the work, some dealerships will let you supply the parts if they are OEM parts.

    That's what I did last month and total cost should be 800-900
     
  4. Feb 4, 2019 at 1:58 PM
    #24
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Made you look

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    Couple years back a local shop quoted me about 900 parts/labor for the job. $1400 from the OP is highway robbery. I went and got the ebay kit linked to earlier (like WAY earlier, lol) for $250ish and did it myself over a weekend. I'm no ex

    There are several resources on this site to help you through the process. Read a bunch and take your time.
     
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    #24
    1997tacomav6[QUOTED] likes this.
  5. Feb 4, 2019 at 2:12 PM
    #25
    1997tacomav6

    1997tacomav6 V6 5sp,RegCab,TRD Supercharger,Haltech,meth, 750k

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    V6 5sp,RegCab,TRD Supercharger, 1.9” pulley, methanol injected Haltech ECU, AC TRD supercharger,(MUST DO) TRD supercharger ported, every 125,000- 150,000 needs rebuild Projector headlights HID 5 speed manual Amsoil for all drive train Smaller 2” pulley, (MUST DO) 2004 DESNO fuel injectors, zero ping ping, 2004 side door mirrors Dick Cepek Rims, Michelin tires LTX, ( that last 100,000 miles) Now running Dynopro ATM mud and snow tires KN cold air intake Cat back exhaust with ss exhaust tip, Raised exhaust tail pipe to 2" below body line Optima*dry cell battery,red top Alpine sirius radio, 200 watt amp, focal is165 split door pod speakers Focal door speakers Subwoffer behind seat Viper alarm, Electric Locks Dark tinted windows, bucket seats corbeau lg1 Tacoma Rubber floor mats TRD fender extenders, Bilstien shocks, King shocks nerf bars, add a leaf for rear springs trailer iv hitch, electric brake control, Drilled slotted brakes, High carbon steel (MUST DO) EBS green stuff 7000 series pads(MUST DO) TRD engine oil cap TRD stick shift, Marlin crawl shift kit. Rear sliding window 2002 4Runner functional hood scoop cut into Tacoma hood, 4Runner dual overhead map light Gentex Auto dim + Compass + Temp, garage,rearview mirror Snow Methonal kit stage 2 Custom 3 core aluminum radiator Linex bed liner Haltech stand alone ECU, Intake supercharger gauge. Stainless steel brake lines, Custom leather wrapped steering wheel,
    The fan bracket bearing cost 100.00 for an aftermarket model just by itself at rockauto
     
  6. Feb 4, 2019 at 2:18 PM
    #26
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Made you look

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    that's not something that's normally part of a timing belt replace, though.
     
  7. Feb 4, 2019 at 2:43 PM
    #27
    1997tacomav6

    1997tacomav6 V6 5sp,RegCab,TRD Supercharger,Haltech,meth, 750k

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    It should be because its a bearing that goes out just like the other bearings, I have had two go bad on me, one left me broken down on the highway, it seized and snapped the belt
     
  8. Feb 4, 2019 at 2:52 PM
    #28
    1997tacomav6

    1997tacomav6 V6 5sp,RegCab,TRD Supercharger,Haltech,meth, 750k

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    97 reg cab, v6 5sp 300hp supercharged, Methonal Injection, 750,001 plus miles, Original Owner
    V6 5sp,RegCab,TRD Supercharger, 1.9” pulley, methanol injected Haltech ECU, AC TRD supercharger,(MUST DO) TRD supercharger ported, every 125,000- 150,000 needs rebuild Projector headlights HID 5 speed manual Amsoil for all drive train Smaller 2” pulley, (MUST DO) 2004 DESNO fuel injectors, zero ping ping, 2004 side door mirrors Dick Cepek Rims, Michelin tires LTX, ( that last 100,000 miles) Now running Dynopro ATM mud and snow tires KN cold air intake Cat back exhaust with ss exhaust tip, Raised exhaust tail pipe to 2" below body line Optima*dry cell battery,red top Alpine sirius radio, 200 watt amp, focal is165 split door pod speakers Focal door speakers Subwoffer behind seat Viper alarm, Electric Locks Dark tinted windows, bucket seats corbeau lg1 Tacoma Rubber floor mats TRD fender extenders, Bilstien shocks, King shocks nerf bars, add a leaf for rear springs trailer iv hitch, electric brake control, Drilled slotted brakes, High carbon steel (MUST DO) EBS green stuff 7000 series pads(MUST DO) TRD engine oil cap TRD stick shift, Marlin crawl shift kit. Rear sliding window 2002 4Runner functional hood scoop cut into Tacoma hood, 4Runner dual overhead map light Gentex Auto dim + Compass + Temp, garage,rearview mirror Snow Methonal kit stage 2 Custom 3 core aluminum radiator Linex bed liner Haltech stand alone ECU, Intake supercharger gauge. Stainless steel brake lines, Custom leather wrapped steering wheel,
    Well you can always take a chance or wait till it blows up when it seizes then and it will take out everything in its path Including the radiator or spend an extra 100.00 to be safe

    92186AED-D78B-4E7E-BE28-1D0EBB5C5059.jpg
     
  9. Feb 4, 2019 at 3:22 PM
    #29
    jbrandt

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    Damn, that's pretty crappy luck! That's the first I've heard of an issue that bad, though, which is probably why it's not something most people end up doing.

    If it gives you the piece of mind, by all means do it.
     
  10. Feb 4, 2019 at 5:37 PM
    #30
    turbodb

    turbodb AdventureTaco

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    AdventureTaco
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2021
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    #30
  11. Feb 4, 2019 at 6:01 PM
    #31
    Trowbocop

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  12. Feb 5, 2019 at 11:36 AM
    #32
    Trowbocop

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    Ordered the kit, coming in on Saturday for a Sunday install. Now, to pick up the SSTs! Very thorough writeup, thank you for taking the time to do that.
     
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  13. Feb 5, 2019 at 11:40 AM
    #33
    jbrandt

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    The only one you "need" is the crank pulley tool. You can make one yourself pretty easily, see here:

    Here's a link to the thread and the one I made.

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/homemade-crank-pulley-tool.140646/page-4#post-16390328

    It was my experience (I tried a few iterations of my homemade tool) that the tool needed to be long enough to either rest on the frame or the ground (mine was on the ground). There was no way my weak little arms could get enough torque holding both the crank pulley tool and the torque wrench. Once I was able to get the tool holding itself on the ground, I got the torque I needed.

    That said, if you do the seals (I did not), obviously the seal tools would be good, too. Mine still seemed fine so I didn't bother. Sure, there's a chance that will come back to bit me, but I like to live dangerously, lol.

    Oh, another thing:

    If this is your first time doing it, I'd give yourself more than just Sunday to get it done. I started disassembly on Friday evening, and was done by mid-day on Sunday. I wasn't working 100% of the time (kids, other distractions, pausing to do some more reading, fiddling with getting my crank pulley tool to work properly, etc...), but I was out there most of the day Saturday.

    So if you need it to get to work on Monday, I'd wait until the next weekend, just to be safe.
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2019
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  14. Feb 5, 2019 at 11:45 AM
    #34
    jbrandt

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    Another good write up sir!

    Pretty sure I used this when I did mine a few years ago.
     
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  15. Feb 5, 2019 at 12:33 PM
    #35
    Trowbocop

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    Ok, good to know. Luckily I'm not doing it alone, & the buddy I'm doing it with has done a few timing belts before & says he'll have all the SSTs.

    Man, I'm on the fence about waiting, but that makes sense. It's not like I work from home. My rig got the timing belt done around 60k, and I'm up at almost 209k now, so timeliness is my concern. But if you think another 200miles won't hurt I may wait.
     
  16. Feb 5, 2019 at 12:39 PM
    #36
    jbrandt

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    Depending on who you have helping, it might take longer, lol. Sounds like you have someone who's experienced, that that's a bonus.

    I was being super anal about everything, and taking it slow. Aside from my homemade tool not really working the first time, I didn't have any major issues, and didn't need to make trips to the store for parts or whatever.

    I do remember wasting some time with the radiator. I had read that you can do it while leaving the rad in place, as long as you aren't using an impact gun on the crank bolt. That's dumb, just take the rad all the way out, you have to drain it anyway. Just get it out of the way, lol.
     
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  17. Feb 5, 2019 at 12:53 PM
    #37
    Trowbocop

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    I do plan on removing the radiator, so good to know it's necessary. Glad to have resources like your writeup, I'll also be using the video @SafetyDang posted to youtube:
    3.4L V6 5vz-fe Timing Belt and Water Pump Ep 4

    Leveling up my at-home mechanic skills!

    This will be my most challenging project so far, but these two resources break it down clearly enough to give me the confidence to tackle this. Will report back after the install.
     
    SafetyDang and Yetimetchkangmi like this.

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