Timing Chain P0018 P0302,304,306

Put your mind at ease about the shop manual pic showing the intake cam lobe angle...here's mine with everything lined up, same lobe angle as yours.

 

I’ve got to say I really appreciate all the help and I know I’ve been a nuisance about not reading the shop manual lol this is quite the project. Hopefully you’ll have a quick recovery with surgery and I will most definitely have a nice dinner if this all turns out ok. And sounds good on the camshaft. No longer worried about that.

 

Quick question @craigs1 ive got an OEM 20-200 in/lb torque wrench. It only shows an option for CM. KPS and the other setting is inch pounds. Do I need to convert inch pounds to foot pounds and if so I think I’ll need a bigger torque.

 

Mine has Newton-meters and inch-lbs, so I posted N*m torque specs. Shop manual has torque specs in all 3 measurements, so if your torque wrench goes low enough to match whatever 9 N*m is in inch-lbs you're set for all but the crank balancer bolt. I used Auto Zone loan-a-tool big torque wrench for that bolt, it was new in the case so I presumed it hadn't been abused.

A smaller 1/4" drive torque wrench is just easier to navigate in tight spaces, like the 4 AC compressor bolts. Shop manual cautions a specific multi-step torque sequence and pattern, it's a tight space for the rear lower bolt, and I didn't want to find out what damage improper torquing would cause as I like my AC.

edit: online measurement converter shows 9 N*m = 79.66 inch/lbs, and 23 N*m = 203.57 inch/lbs so you're good for the timing cover, intake manifold, valve covers, and ignition coils. Look up the torque specs in the shop manual and write them down in inch/lbs. Not sure about the idler pulleys, AC compressor bolts, alternator bolts, etc. as these use higher torque values. Might need a trip to Auto Zone to borrow two bigger torque wrenches.

 

Newton meters to inch pounds is up there it looks like 100 newton meters converts to 885 inch pounds and this torque only goes up to 200 inch pounds so I think I’m going to have to rent a bigger torque. Those numbers seem high but that’s what the conversion chart said @craigs1

 

Thanks for the well wishes, nothing major thankfully.

The timing cover bolts are all 23 N*m, water pump big bolts are also 23, small 10mm bolts are 9 N*m. I posted my chart of torque specs in this thread a while back, check them against the shop manual for accuracy but you'll see that your current wrench will get the timing cover and most other components on.

Again...beware the 2 oil passage o-rings, especially the bottom one that seals the oil pump pickup. It will not stay in place by itself, and thick RTV will risk clogging/damaging the oil pump. Grease has worked for some on the FJ/4Runner boards. I used thin Permatex Aviation sealant, light coat in the timing cover groove and light coat on one side of the new o-ring...let them tack up for ~5 minutes, then stuck them together firmly and let the sealant fully cure. The smaller oil system o-ring near top-left of the engine block surface has nubs molded in to hold it in the groove, no additional adhesive was necessary.

Biggest torque wrench will be 1/2" drive, for the crank bolt. Also see if they have a tool to hold the crankshaft while you're tightening that sucker. I also used Loctite Blue on the threads, though the shop manual didn't call for it.

Next biggest torque wrench will be another 3/8" drive with higher range, for the idler pulleys and whatnot.

 

Here's a handy chart of all torque specs for the entire engine, in all 3 measurements including kgf * cm which your current torque wrench has markings for:

http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old.../06toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/003000.pdf

 

Perfect I’m headed to autozone now to see what all they have as far as torques go. Also, I understand what you’re saying about the bottom o ring for the oil on the timing cover, but it didn’t say in the manual if permatex actually goes on the bottom of the timing cover where it meets the oil pan.

Side note, I called Toyota about that expensive FIPG for the water pump areas and they do have it for $100 a tube lol and I asked the guy what the difference was and he just said the technicians just use the same sealer on the timing cover as they do for the cooling inlets. He said the expensive just doesn’t take as long to fully cure. @craigs1

 

The manual assumes you removed the oil pan...in which case you'd be applying FIPG to the oil pan when bolting it to the block and timing cover. Since you and I didn't remove the oil pan, a bead of FIPG is needed. I applied mine to the bottom of the timing cover and only a bead of FIPG in the two side corners where the block/oil pan/timing cover meet. I did *not* apply FPIG to the oil pan's main surface, afraid I'd drag it into the oil pump pickup and trash the oil pump. I also put a light film of motor oil on the oil pan's circular oil pump pickup tube hole to help the problematic o-ring slide across it while I was seating the timing cover.

Seriously...do a few dry runs putting on the timing cover without the o-rings and FIPG just to get a feel for it. 2 dowel pins on the block have to slide into the timing cover holes, and that oil pump gerotor has to slide onto the crank sprocket drive...even a slight misalignment and the cover won't go on. I found it easiest to lay the bottom of the timing cover onto the crank as far as it would go, holding it up off the oil pan to avoid smearing the FIPG, with the timing cover tilted away from the engine at the top...and then tilting it straight while pushing in at the lower part near the crankshaft.

 

Funny thing about that coolant passage FIPG, probably didn't need it. I got mine for $48 with veteran's discount at the dealer so it wasn't my biggest problem.

 

Re-read step 45 before installing the 2 o-rings and applying FIPG, after you've done a few dry runs and have practice getting the timing cover on correctly:

http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old.../06toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/007017.pdf

 

@craigs1 ive gotta be honest and say that I wasn’t going to replace those oil o rings because they are still seated in their rightful place but just bought them from autozone. Think I should use the old ones since they are seated in there sontight or put the new ones in? I know it’s late and don’t mean to keep you up but I’ll be working on it till morning i think

 

I never reuse o-rings in any car repair.

 

Just remove the oil pan man. You can't see if the o-ring seats correctly from up top, it's really not that hard, I found a way to do it with clamps instead of prying, I'll dig up picks.

 

x2 on dry runs!

 

Craig In pic #2 of his post, is it a trick of light or are does it look like there are chunks missing or grooves or something on the lifters on the Cam? Below is a pic of my the right bank on the 1GR-FE have in my truck now before I cleaned it for install, the tips show some ware, but not scarring or anything. Trick of light in his pics???

 

Sorry these are not the best pics, I didn't take them for a howto, just happen to take them when I was pulling the upper oil pan one time. But what we are doing here is placing the top pad of the clamps on the tabs of the upper oil pan and the lower pad of the clamps on the cross member (or anywhere else on the frame that you can find). Put as many as you can, should be able to easily put at least 2 on the front tabs. One at a time, tighten the clamps, a little on one, a little on the other, back and forth until the clamps are really tight. Then use a blade and break the seal in the FIPG in a couple of places. Again, go around and tighten clamps.

Upper oil pan will slowly fall. done it MANY times

( of course this assumes you have removed all the bolts!!!)

 

It's a good procedure you developed, but mine is 4 wheel drive and no way to get the oil pan off without removing the front differential. Not plan A for me. I went to OMC training during high school for Johnson/Evinrude outboard motors, so I had experience dealing with seals you can't see during assembly. Permatex Aviation sealant has the same characteristics as the OMC version...goes on thin like carmel sauce, doesn't blob and break off while fluid passes.

As far as his cam lobes, let's have him check them. I assumed it was light trickery as some of my pics also looked like the lobes were abraded, but it merits followup.

 

@craigs1 2nd to worst nightmare came true. Got the timing coming on and torqued and 1 short bolt 2nd one down on drivers side near the valve cover and to the right of the oil filter broke in half! The other half is still in the block. Have you used those removal drill bits before and if so would you recommend me picking one up?

Also how long do I need to wait for the permatex to cure before I can put any fluids in the motor and start her up?

 

Oh dude, that sucks! Pics? Yes, those removal bits work well, just use some electrical tape around the bit where it might contact the cover (assuming the part you are drilling into is recessed) so you don't tear things up if you rub against it. So close . . . soon . . .