Timing Chain P0018 P0302,304,306

after removing my valve covers and with the crank at 0 , this is what I got !! can someone please verify if my time is off ?
chain is pretty tight and looks like theres no broken pieces or anything abnormal

 

Were you using the torque wrench or going by hand? If torque wrench, what was it set to? Need to figure out why the bolt failed and correct the cause, or it will happen again.

NOTE: given the location of the failed bolt and the risk of the extractor causing more damage or breaking off in the bolt, I'd button up the engine and then take it to a shop for professional extraction.

I've had good luck with reverse drill bits, with the drill spinning in reverse the bolt usually walks out on it's own. Center-punch the broken bolt with a hardened punch to center the drill bit or it will walk around and damage the timing cover and/or block. When it doesn't, the extractor will finish the job.

 

@craigs1 please let me know what you think?

 

If you're absolutely certain that the crank is exactly on the zero mark...you look nearly a half tooth retarded at the passenger side (bank 1 throwing the P0016 code), and a bit less off at the driver side (bank 2). This is consistent with chain elongation, as bank 1 is further away from the crank sprocket than bank 2...elongation therefore retards bank 1 position more than bank 2.

To eliminate P0016 you need to replace the #1 chain, and consensus is to replace the entire timing set...at a minimum everything but the VVT actuators given their cost. Cloyes and others sell aftermarket kits with the chains, exhaust cam sprockets, idler sprocket, crank sprocket, guides, and tensioners. Toyota parts from wholesale dealers cost around $600 as shown below, much more than the aftermarket parts. The #1 chain alone cost me $190. This parts list doesn't include the main tensioner and bank 1 tensioner which I had already replaced, so add another $100 or so. Your call.

 

In addition to my previous note, the sludge is nearly nonexistent compared to mine and others I've seen posted w/ P0016. My approach of continuing to drive it with high mileage oil and changing frequently worked out well for me, and gave me time to gather parts & tools while studying the shop manual to learn the job.

 

yes im sure its zero, its certain lot of money but I just purchase the car so I would like to make it right. what can happen if I just leave it like that craigs1 ? what would be a good price for the labor ?

 

@JIMMY1X thats about what it cost me. Except I had to buy a $160 actuator from rock auto. With the exception of having to buy lots of brake parts cleaner and degreaser. Also had to purchase valve cover set and spark plugs. In the long run it does suck and seem like a lot of money which I am strapped for right now, but it’s just unaffordable to bring it in somewhere. This was my first time ever going this deep and I’ll be buttoning up the engine tonight and hopefully starting it in the morning.

 

Hdiscus7 what do you think its the worse part of this job, I would like to hear some feedback on hows yours running after the fix .hopefully you have a good outcome .

 

craigs1 im currently driving my old car, so im not in a rush to fix, so listening to your advice I think I would ,get parts ,info and tools . do you think this is the cause of the rattling noise in the engine ? whats should I check once I start working on the timing chain?
havent check my pulley yet ! but will in the am

 

The original owner of mine ran it from 96K miles to 163K miles with P0016, and continued to neglect oil changes the whole time...22K miles average oil change interval. I put on an additional 11K miles before I pulled it into my garage and fixed it, but did 5 oil changes during that time to gently break up the sludge.

I found I could minimize the Check Engine light by doing this every time I started it:

1) Allow engine to idle for a minute;
2) Slowly bring engine to 2,000 RPM and hold for around 15 seconds;
3) Slowly release throttle to return to idle;

Not sure why it worked, but it did most of the time in warm weather with 5W-30 oil. When I tried thicker 0W-40, the Check Engine light was unavoidable. This procedure is a shadetree workaround for engines with low oil pressure, and helps pressurize the hydraulic lifters and stop clattering...the Toyota V6 doesn't have hydraulic lifters, but it does have hydraulic timing chain tensioners. My theory was that pressurizing the tensioners took up the slack in the #2 chains which don't have ratchets like the #1 tensioner...may have helped keep the cams from jerking around and throwing the P0016 code?

The shop manual says that the ECM does an initial camshaft position correlation test upon startup, sets the VVT at full negative and measures cam position on each bank. If a cam is out of time, it throws the appropriate code for that bank with P0016 being bank 1. By bringing the engine revs up, it's possible that I was helping the engine pass this test??

Best quote I got for the job was $3600 parts & labor but that was for a 4 wheel drive, which adds significant labor removing the front differential assembly by the book. Yours would be cheaper.

 

Check the pulleys and belt-driven accessories first to confirm or rule out sources of noise before proceeding.

I kick myself for not doing this with mine...the #1 chain did not elongate any further during my 11K of driving with good oil, I could have replaced the 2 bad pulleys and walked bank 1 intake cam sprocket back 1 tooth to eliminate P0016 as the guy in the FJ Cruiser forum did. So with no significant risk of chain failure, and no engine noise, I could have delayed or possibly avoided the chain replacement project.

For your question to hdiscus7 on the hardest part...it's the timing cover re-installation in my opinion. I didn't have any bolts break as I used an accurate torque wrench and tightened the bolts in 3 steps as posted earlier: 7 N-m, 15 N-m, 23 N-m, followed by a final pass at 23 N-m to ensure I didn't miss any or have warpage of the timing cover. But it was still a total PITA getting everything aligned just right...2 o-rings, 2 dowel pins, the oil pump drive and all without smearing the FIPG bead. Every other part was just following the manual, triple verifying cam and crank timing, cleaning sealing surfaces and bolt threads, etc.

 

Before that first startup, I removed the fuel pump fuse. Cranked it for 2-3 seconds, and stopped. Repeated while watching the Oil Pressure idiot light, until the idiot light went out. Mine took 3 of these at around 3 seconds each, and the light went out the 3rd time. And there was much rejoicing.

This did two things: let me verify that I got the o-rings right and it's building oil pressure, and pressurized the tensioners to minimize initial startup noise.

I've heard Ford 4.6L engines make an un-godly racket during initial startup after major engine work and didn't want that with mine.

 

Make sure the cover is on the alignment dowels when you start putting bolts in

 

Great point. I installed 2 bolts finger-tight, and then installed the 4 bottom bolts from the oil pan to the timing cover. Torqued these to spec (in 3 incremental passes as posted earlier), and then dealt with the timing cover front bolts. Intent was to compress that oil pump o-ring fully, but it likely also ensured that the cover was fully on the dowels as the bolts wouldn't have found the threads otherwise.

 

@craigs1 ive had the timing cover on since about 430 this afternoon and will have it buttoned up completely by morning. When can I add oil and coolant and start it?

 

Sealants usually have cure time on the package or the manufacturer's website. What FIPG did you use?

 

This here and it says 24 hours but didn’t want to wait that long Ofcourse lol

 

https://www.permatex.com/wp-content/uploads/tech_docs/tds/82180.pdf

"For best results, allow to cure overnight."

So you should be all set to fill & fire this morning. Here's hoping you'll get the best results ever!

 

, the suspense is killing me

 

Same here! Wish I still lived in Knoxville, we could have cranked this out like a NASCAR pit crew.