Timing Chain P0018 P0302,304,306

This is drivers side small chain both marked links are dead center of each raised mark on the motor. Let me know how that looks

 

Passenger side small chain let me know as well before I bolt in. Thanks

 

Passenger side corrected update small chain

 

You'll want to install the chain tensioner on bank 2 before you bolt up the exhaust sprocket. Do the small chains not have color-marked link plates?

 

They are but unfortunately they are black which doesn’t help much. Is there a way to double check that the crank shaft is at top dead center or 0 degrees with out having the timing cover there?

 

If you'll just read the shop manual link I keep posting you'll see how to check the crank timing marks on both the chain's colored endplate and the block.

edit: here's a pic from the manual. Really good info in there.

 

Just wanted to make sure lol this job has me quite nervous. I just want to make sure it’s absolutley perfect before I put this back together. This was one heck of a job. Here’s a photo of the crank. It looks pretty close to diagram you sent from the link.

 

That little indented dot on the crank reluctor wheel should be right on top of the cast-in timing mark on the block...looks right. The timing dot on the crank sprocket will then be at the 9 o'clock position, and your color-coded timing chain endplate will go on top of that dot.

edit: and you'll want to remove the main chain tensioner and the guiderail before you try hanging the chain. I removed the idler sprocket as the manual said, and put that piece on dead last. Use the wrench on bank 1 intake cam to add slack to the chain at the idler, and it will bolt right into place perfectly.

 

Just wanted to make sure lol this job has me quite nervous. I just want to make sure it’s absolutley perfect before I put this back together. This was one heck of a job. Here’s a photo of the crank. It looks pretty close to diagram you sent from the link.

 

Make sure you get the old FIPG out of the water pump passages in the block...can still see the big black ring of the stuff in your last pic.

 

Yes sir I’ll get on that. So I’ve got both small chains on correctly and the main chain but having trouble getting it looped around the crank shaft. I don’t have the main tensioner on and it’s still kinda just short. Also, I just want to make sure that it’s most imperative to get the colored link at the right tooth no matter what even if I have to rotate the crankshaft a little to put that colored link on the right tooth?

 

Ok I think I got it. Can’t see exactly in the diagram but it looks like the colored link needs to be on the third tooth not including the two teeth that the mark on the crankshaft sits

 

@craigs1 just wanted to confirm on the last pic you posted of your crankshaft link. It looks like it’s either on the third or fourth tooth not including the two teeth that encompass the TDC mark on your crank

 

The colored link plate goes right over the crank sprocket tooth that has the timing dot on it. When you have confirmed all 5 timing marks and installed the #1 chain tensioner, turn the crank 2 full revolutions and re-verify all 5 timing marks are right where the shop manual says they should be.

 

I’ve got just a touch of slack in the chain. All marks are on point and links are where they should be. Will the slack go away when I make the two full revolutions on the crank? @craigs1

 

And should there be any play in the main chain or should it not even be able to move when you touch it? Just trying to see what is allowable as far as slack goes. Right now it’s tight but will move if I push in on a link maybe a centimeter or less

 

I just rotated the motor as you said and most of the marks don’t line up such as the links to raised indent on the motor. I can get the cam phasers lined up again and I gained a little bit of slack in the chain near the crank shaft. How should the marks line up after rotation?

 

As you can see both cams lined up again but none of the links on the chains line up anymore. This is four rotations

 

Don't worry about the colored endplates after the first revolution of the crank, they take a significant # of revolutions before they will align again. Focus on the sprocket markings and their corresponding marks on the engine.

Post a pic of the crank marks showing the dot on the reluctor wheel and its position relative to the casting line on the block.

 

Thank goodness I was afraid I was going to have to redo it all. Now I’m guessing the crank will have to be at 0 degrees and the cam phasers lined up and sprockets lined up before I put it back together? I’ve rotated the engine 6 total times now and wondering if it’s already timed or do I need to line it back up again.