Timing Chain P0018 P0302,304,306

Another two rotations. The screw driver is the casting mark and with the crank at this position everything lines up. But it looks to be a hair off of 0 degrees again

 

The "hair" may be normal chain slack. With the crank exactly on the zero casting mark, put your 24mm wrench on the intake cam that appears off and *gently* rotate that cam toward its zero mark, taking up the chain slack and countering the forces of that cam's (and it's corresponding exhaust cam's) valvesprings. Don't apply enough force to do any more than take up chain slack...and see if the timing marks line up exactly on their timing marks.

 

I’ve decided to just go ahead and reset the chain with the crank at complete 0 just to be absolutley certain. Won’t take long, but my other question is, what happens when the cam phaser moves and the cam shaft stayed the same when I was taking the bolt out of it? Do the camshafts have specs on exactly how the should be matching up with the cam phasers?

 

The VVT actuators have a lock pin that engages when no oil pressure is present, so the entire sprocket and vane assembly moves as one piece.

If you re-do the chain, make sure you use the colored endplates again and put them correctly on their respective marks as shown in the manual. Crank has a dot on the sprocket, bank 1 intake cam has the single long line, bank 2 intake cam has the two short lines.

 

I’m guessing that actually needs to be corrected

 

The valvesprings are exerting pressure against the cam lobes and will rotate the cam in whichever direction the lobe ramp is facing at the time. I found that when each intake cam was positioned exactly against its timing mark, the forces were neutral and the cam stayed in place...but it only took a degree or two before the valvesprings forced the cam to rotate violently.

 

Never mind @craigs1 I didn’t realize they only go on one way. I may have been imaging it since I’ve been working on this for so long

 

And if you're really disassembling the sprockets from the cams, you may want to put the exhaust chains on w/ the colored endplates facing rearward as the manual specifies and my pictures show. The intake sprockets have dots on the cam teeth facing rearward...this way you can see the colored endplate and sprocket dot aligned on top of each other.

 

Just wanted to confirm @craigs1 if you think that’s pretty spot on 0 for the crank

 

No, the dot appears to be slightly before the block line. Needs to be right on top of it.

 

@craigs1 you’re gonna laugh because I’ve been trying to line it up by the raised part on the dang crankshaft itself. Lord have mercy

 

Use the small indented dot on the crank reluctor wheel's flat surface, and place it directly on top of the block casting line.

edit: here's my pic again, with a red arrow pointing to the indented dot on the reluctor wheel's flat surface. When looking straight at the dot and block casting line the dot should be directly on top of the block casting line.

 

And is this bare metal showing on your tensioner guiderail??

 

Quick question. @craigs1 on the back of the cam phaser for the small chain does the colored link line up with the single dot or double dots and no not bare metal just wear oil residue is gone

 

I guess reading the manual I keep posting just isn't gonna happen...here's the pic from step 37 showing the double dots for bank 2 intake sprocket:

 

My apologies @craigs1 seriously. I’ll make sure to check the manual before dropping in here. I’m glad I caught that though because I was about to put it on dot 1.

 

It sure takes the guesswork right out of the process. This was my first DOHC engine project, so I overcompensated by reading the shop manual and taking notes before I picked up a wrench...and then printed the relevant sections to use as a checklist while I was working.

 

Getting back to the o-rings and crankshaft seal, the drawings below show each one you'll need. Dealership parts dept is a sure thing, just bring these diagrams and they can look them up.

 

LOL, OP, I'm not even doing this and I read the manual so I could follow along, although it did take me a bit to find the right link in that long list (awesome links, BTW, all the info you need and more). Again, props to you for tackling this and to @craigs1 for his patience. Almost there . . .

Those guides are kind of a wear part, did you get new guides? Chain angle on the left side of the crank sprocket looked a bit funny on one of your early pics, although it smoothed out on later ones.

You are almost there, just get your marks figured out, do the 2 rotations and button things up with new gaskets and o-rings.

 

If I'm ever in a tight situation, for whatever reason, I hope to have a @craigs1 in my corner

Good Luck @Hdiscus7 Pretty ballsy taking this project on with a limited budget. If you're gonna cut corners, carefully weigh which ones. PM me if you need $$ for gaskets.